This site is not affiliated with AGCO Inc., Duluth GA., Allis-Chalmers Co., Milwaukee, WI., or any surviving or related corporate entity. All trademarks remain the property of their respective owners. All information presented herein should be considered the result of an un-moderated public forum with no responsibility for its accuracy or usability assumed by the users and sponsors of this site or any corporate entity. | ||||||
The Forum | Parts and Services | Unofficial Allis Store | Tractor Shows | Serial Numbers | History |
912H Carb/Engine Trouble |
Post Reply |
Author | |
Albow44
Silver Level Joined: 25 May 2015 Location: PA Points: 90 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Posted: 02 Aug 2015 at 2:33pm |
So, I've replaced the carburetor and she still won't stay running. After installing new carb and adjusting the valve/needle screws to the service manual recommendations it ran for 15-30 seconds then sputtered out again and won't restart. Any suggestions?
Thanks |
|
Sponsored Links | |
split51
Orange Level Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Guthrie, OK Points: 713 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Do you have good flow from the tank? Take the fuel line off at the carb and see if you have a constant stream. I had problems with the fittings at the tank being clogged causing slow fuel flow. My tractor would run for a short while and die, after sitting a few minutes, it would restart and run fine for a short while before dieing again.
|
|
1929 20-35 sn17662
B1 w/snow blade B10 w/sickle mower B110 w/mower deck B110 w/tiller B112 w/grader blade B210 w/plo |
|
Wade (IA)
Silver Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Osceola, IA Points: 232 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Can u buy a replacement filter/ bung fitting or do you need to replace the entire tank? Those little strainers on the fitting gets smashed.
|
|
Toscani NE SD
Orange Level Joined: 21 Jan 2011 Location: Milbank S.D. Points: 369 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
I just took the gas tank out and pulled the fuel screen out of my 912,lines where cracked bad and I wanted to see how plugged my screen was,blew the junk off and used a john deere new rubber bung cause its all I had at the time,there pretty universal everything went fine,i used some blue colored snowmobile hose I had lying around,fit good an I don't use any clamps,its snug enough
|
|
Albow44
Silver Level Joined: 25 May 2015 Location: PA Points: 90 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Yeah, when I was doing all the electrical I took out the tank and replaced the bushing and lines and also cleaned the screen. I seem to be getting good flow from the tank and the fuel pump is pumping fuel just fine. The needle was messed up in the old carb, it was just pumping fuel right out of the air intake. When I put this new one on, it started up after a few cranks ran for a few seconds or so then puttered out and wouldn't restart.
|
|
split51
Orange Level Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Guthrie, OK Points: 713 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Have you checked to see if it's an ignition problem or fuel problem yet?
|
|
1929 20-35 sn17662
B1 w/snow blade B10 w/sickle mower B110 w/mower deck B110 w/tiller B112 w/grader blade B210 w/plo |
|
Albow44
Silver Level Joined: 25 May 2015 Location: PA Points: 90 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
What exactly do you mean? Like I said it started then stopped, so I don't think it would be an ignition problem, unless I'm missing something it will also start and stop with starter fluid. As far as fuel goes, I'm pretty sure it's reaching the carburetor.
Edited by Albow44 - 02 Aug 2015 at 10:18pm |
|
Jim Hancock
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: EL Reno, Ok. Points: 1112 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Hi Albow.
After it starts and runs for a minute or less, do you have to wait for a couple of minutes or more to try and get it to fire off again? You commented that you did the electrical, did this include the points and condensor and/or coil? Or just the wiring harness to everything? If you have to wait a little bit, it sounds like the condensor and/or coil is heating up and breaking the circuit in the short time that it runs. Once it cools down, the circuit re-connects. Possibly, it might be the mag next to the flywheel. But, I'd wait on that and see if it's the coil and/or condensor and replace the points while in there, if you haven't been in there yet. You have changed the plug, right? It could also be going bad and heating up and break the circuit until it cools back down. And I'm guessing that the plug is wet when it's not firing off, indicating that gas is getting to the cylinder.
Edited by Jim Hancock - 03 Aug 2015 at 12:07am |
|
How blessed we are by HIS GRACE!
|
|
Albow44
Silver Level Joined: 25 May 2015 Location: PA Points: 90 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Ok, I haven't replaced the coil or condenser as of yet but the plug was changed for sure. Call me stupid, but what are the "points" everyone keeps referring to? Are these points different from the ignition coil and condenser?
Edited by Albow44 - 03 Aug 2015 at 12:16pm |
|
Dgrader
Orange Level Joined: 17 Jan 2015 Location: Newton,IL Points: 1037 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Yeah they are. Wire runs from the coil to the points. A small metal cover is over them. Down left of the carb.
|
|
Ya cain't fix stupid.
|
|
Jim Hancock
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: EL Reno, Ok. Points: 1112 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
They're under the vertical rectangle box.
It's cheaper to replace those than the coil and that "should" take care of it. If I remember right from your previous post when you picked this unit up, you've already replaced the ignition module. If it still doesn't, then look at your coil as it's next. Hang in there and we'll get you there.
Edited by Jim Hancock - 03 Aug 2015 at 12:58pm |
|
How blessed we are by HIS GRACE!
|
|
Albow44
Silver Level Joined: 25 May 2015 Location: PA Points: 90 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Yep, all of the other electrical components have been replaced. I just looked at the points, they seem nice and shiny, but that's really all I can say lol. I believe I can get it at tractor supply for around $12, and that includes the condenser. The coil is 6volt right? TSC sells them for around $25, I may as well just replace it all, looks like the coil may have gotten wet.
Edited by Albow44 - 03 Aug 2015 at 5:24pm |
|
Jim Hancock
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: EL Reno, Ok. Points: 1112 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Hi Albow.
The points may look ok and they might be, but the condensor may have gone/or is going bad and it's a good idea to replace the points while you're there being as you don't know how long it's been since they were all installed the last time. The coil should be for a 12v system. |
|
How blessed we are by HIS GRACE!
|
|
Albow44
Silver Level Joined: 25 May 2015 Location: PA Points: 90 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
I'm getting ready to order the parts, my engine is a K301S. Does that fall between the K91-K361 series? Thanks for all the help guys!
|
|
Jim Hancock
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: EL Reno, Ok. Points: 1112 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Yes, it does.
|
|
How blessed we are by HIS GRACE!
|
|
split51
Orange Level Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Guthrie, OK Points: 713 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
One question for Jim. If it has an ignition module, it shouldn't have a coil would it? Sounds like the module went out and someone wired a coil into the system. i have never had a K301S but none of my Briggs or my Kohler Magnums run a coil.
|
|
1929 20-35 sn17662
B1 w/snow blade B10 w/sickle mower B110 w/mower deck B110 w/tiller B112 w/grader blade B210 w/plo |
|
Albow44
Silver Level Joined: 25 May 2015 Location: PA Points: 90 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
I believe he was referring to the actual key ignition I replaced.
|
|
Jim Hancock
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: EL Reno, Ok. Points: 1112 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
You are correct Split51. Good call. I stand corrected. Thanks.
I think that I got my two engines mixed up at that late hour. My 301s and 321s has an external coil along with points and condensor. Briggs and Magnums don't have an external coil. Now with 44's description, he replaced the key switch, which I apparently misinterpreted. I've replaced "ignition modules", as they're called now, next to the flywheel.
|
|
How blessed we are by HIS GRACE!
|
|
split51
Orange Level Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Guthrie, OK Points: 713 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
My mistake, Thought you were referring to a (mag) ignition module.
|
|
1929 20-35 sn17662
B1 w/snow blade B10 w/sickle mower B110 w/mower deck B110 w/tiller B112 w/grader blade B210 w/plo |
|
Jim Hancock
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: EL Reno, Ok. Points: 1112 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
I was. I've also had them called a magneto.
As you well know, it's the passing of the magnets on the flywheel the generates the electric impulse to the spark plug. Nowadays, one can get a "solid state" 'ignition module' and do away with the points and condensor. I did that with my 8hp Briggs on the Sears Rotospader. Edited by Jim Hancock - 04 Aug 2015 at 10:42pm |
|
How blessed we are by HIS GRACE!
|
|
Albow44
Silver Level Joined: 25 May 2015 Location: PA Points: 90 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Parts are ordered! Thanks Jim, I'll let you know if this stuff does the trick.
|
|
Albow44
Silver Level Joined: 25 May 2015 Location: PA Points: 90 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Ok. I have all of the parts in place, I just need instructions on how to hook up and set the breaker points.
|
|
Jim Hancock
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: EL Reno, Ok. Points: 1112 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Hi Albow.
Rotate the engine to a high lobe- which opens the points to a set gap- I'm guessing about.020, maybe .018, measure it with the feeler gauge. Pay attention to what's placed where. Set the new points and condensor in and slide the condensor down the clamp to get the gap and tighten the clamp. Attach the wire back to where it was with the old condensor. See if the engine will start now. If so, replace the cap. If not, check and/or adjust the gap a tic smaller or wider.
|
|
How blessed we are by HIS GRACE!
|
|
Albow44
Silver Level Joined: 25 May 2015 Location: PA Points: 90 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Well, everything is hooked up but she still won't start. Everything seems to be sparking, and I put a new plug in just in case, but it just won't start.
|
|
Albow44
Silver Level Joined: 25 May 2015 Location: PA Points: 90 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
The only thing I haven't replaced, other than the magneto, is the cable from the plug to the coil.
|
|
HudCo
Orange Level Joined: 29 Jan 2013 Location: Plymouth Utah Points: 3552 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
spray and clean with either on the pionts to make sure there is no oil onthe pionts
|
|
HudCo
Orange Level Joined: 29 Jan 2013 Location: Plymouth Utah Points: 3552 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
also check valve lash and do a leak down test and see if the valves are sealing
|
|
Albow44
Silver Level Joined: 25 May 2015 Location: PA Points: 90 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Clean the points with ether? Also, I've never done a leak down test...
|
|
Post Reply | |
Tweet
|
Forum Jump | Forum Permissions You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot create polls in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum |