Allis Chalmers B110 hydraulics and steering

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   Hello,I have a few questions about my 3 speed manual allis chalmers b110 (no variable drive)

1)I was told the main drive belt going from the beveled gear box to the transmission is  5/8"x42.3" but A 42 inch belt will work fine. Is this true?

2) I got the hydraulic lift for it from a simplicity but it is the same exact thing. Im going to convert my tractor to the hydraulic lift but im not 100% sure where everything goes. I know theres a piece that bolts to the BGB and i think i have to remove 2 existing bolts and bolt this piece to the BGB and that attaches to the back of the cylinder. then the other end of the cylinder attaches to the linkage by the blade deck but on the tab on the right not the left. Does anyone have any pictures or a diagram of where the hydraulic lift stuff goes. how much metal will I have to remove to feed the cylinder through the center of the fram by the shifter?

3)Last but very important, my main steering linkage bar (the one that runs from underneath the tractor under the dash to the front left spindle) is dragging on the left foot rest. How do I fix this?

4) I also forgot to mention that my transmission grinds sometimes when i try to get it in to gear. My governor is broken at the moment im not sure if your only supposed to shift at low rpm or what. When it does go into gear it goes in fine its just sometimes it grinds and wont go in.

Thanks so much for the help.

Ron

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rt_smallengines Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 01 Feb 2015 Location: New England Points: 12	Post Options Post Reply Quote rt_smallengines Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: Allis Chalmers B110 hydraulics and steering Posted: 14 Jun 2015 at 10:11pm
	Hello, I have a few questions about my 3 speed manual allis chalmers b110 (no variable drive) 1)I was told the main drive belt going from the beveled gear box to the transmission is 5/8"x42.3" but A 42 inch belt will work fine. Is this true? 2) I got the hydraulic lift for it from a simplicity but it is the same exact thing. Im going to convert my tractor to the hydraulic lift but im not 100% sure where everything goes. I know theres a piece that bolts to the BGB and i think i have to remove 2 existing bolts and bolt this piece to the BGB and that attaches to the back of the cylinder. then the other end of the cylinder attaches to the linkage by the blade deck but on the tab on the right not the left. Does anyone have any pictures or a diagram of where the hydraulic lift stuff goes. how much metal will I have to remove to feed the cylinder through the center of the fram by the shifter? 3)Last but very important, my main steering linkage bar (the one that runs from underneath the tractor under the dash to the front left spindle) is dragging on the left foot rest. How do I fix this? 4) I also forgot to mention that my transmission grinds sometimes when i try to get it in to gear. My governor is broken at the moment im not sure if your only supposed to shift at low rpm or what. When it does go into gear it goes in fine its just sometimes it grinds and wont go in. Thanks so much for the help. Ron

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talntedmrgreen Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Silver Level Joined: 25 Jun 2013 Location: Caledonia, MI Points: 477	Post Options Post Reply Quote talntedmrgreen Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 15 Jun 2015 at 8:25am
	1) Yes 2) Sounds like you have the right idea. The rear mount bolts onto the frame using the BGB upper bolts. The hydrolifts came with longer shoulder bolts though...not sure your short OEM bolts will get enough of the threads in the BGB. Might need 1/2" longer ones. For a B110, you will need to unbolt the entire dash assembly...I loosen everything 9if steering wheel pops off it's easier, otherwise I unbolt it from the steering box). Then raise the assembly as high as the cables will allow, form the ceiling using a ratchet strap. beats the heck out of removing all the cables to free the dash for complete removal. Roundhood tractors are much simpler, since the cover over the shifter/driveshaft is a separate piece. 3) Many rub. You may have to fiddle with it, or live with it. Could be a worn ball joint just needs rotated to get the non-worn side wiggled around and change the orientation of the link. 4) Your belt guide on the BGB pulley is not snug enough to the belt. This should be very, very close to the belt when engaged. I like less than 1/8". When you depress the clutch, this helps to keep all the belt slack back by the driven tranny pulley. That allows it to free itself from belt friction and then stop rotating for clean shifting. Right now when you shift, if you peek back and below your seatpan, that pulley is not stopping it's spin. Do it long enough, and you will need a tranny or gears.
	Patterson B1B1/B1ForkliftB10BigTen/B1LoaderB110B208B206616Homelite T16H/T8/T7/RM7ELandlord/Loader/TrencherBroadmoor717Serf52521107790Legacy XLTwin 20Squire9Squire6JCPenny 494

rt_smallengines Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 01 Feb 2015 Location: New England Points: 12	Post Options Post Reply Quote rt_smallengines Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 15 Jun 2015 at 11:20pm
	Hello talentedmrgreen, Thank you for all the helpful information. I currently have the motor out and hood off as I am swapping the motors. Is it possible to feed the cylinder to the BGB through that opening of do I still have to lift the whole dash? The manual deck lift lever is stuck on pretty good so I have to get that off first. Also where that bracket mounts to the BGB I'm not sure which way it's oriented. Is it obvious once I'm in there? Thanks again, Ron

rt_smallengines Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 01 Feb 2015 Location: New England Points: 12	Post Options Post Reply Quote rt_smallengines Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 16 Jun 2015 at 12:53am
	Also what has to be removed from the drive line in order to make room for the pulley that drives the hydraulic pump. I know it bolts where the drive shaft meets the flywheel of the engine but I'm not sure what has to come out to make room for the pulley and if I still need the fiberglass shock discs and washers Thanks

rt_smallengines Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 01 Feb 2015 Location: New England Points: 12	Post Options Post Reply Quote rt_smallengines Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 16 Jun 2015 at 11:16pm
	Sorry to bother you but I'm going to hopefully finish it tommorow at a friends shop so if you get a chance to reply it would be much appreciated. Thanks again

talntedmrgreen Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Silver Level Joined: 25 Jun 2013 Location: Caledonia, MI Points: 477	Post Options Post Reply Quote talntedmrgreen Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 17 Jun 2015 at 9:31am
	The driveshaft will simply need to be unbolted from the engine, but if you have that out, you're set already. The pulley will bolt between the driveshaft coupler and engine. You may need longer shoulder bolts. Loosen the yoke on the opposite side of the driveshaft, at the BGB as well, so you can make room in the driveline for the pulley. The dash really needs to move...there is no easy way to get way up in there and work on the yoke and BGB/cylinder mount otherwise. Most folks completely remove it, but I have not found that necessary...it's just a few small bolts. The bracket 'ears' will need to be up high, and the offset is such that it will only go on one way, or it will interfere with the rear lift rod.
	Patterson B1B1/B1ForkliftB10BigTen/B1LoaderB110B208B206616Homelite T16H/T8/T7/RM7ELandlord/Loader/TrencherBroadmoor717Serf52521107790Legacy XLTwin 20Squire9Squire6JCPenny 494