wc stroker question

How much can you stroke a stock 45 crank in a wc block with stock rods before it hits the block? Been a while since I put the engine together but it seems like there wasn't much room, maybe a quarter inch?

I have stock d17 pistons, if I stoke it as much as will fit is that enough hp to turn 15.5s at 4500 lb class, 3 mph?

Thanks, JM

Most of the blocks are narrow, the ones with 40 cast on the side ( and possiably 38) are wider above the oil pan rail. 

But for all practical purposes you can go to 5.25" stroke with stock rods if you trim the rods and the bolts, and you will just about grind through the block to get it to clear. (this I would not do though for an option)

I had one come in that was 5.25" stroke with the stock rods, early block. The block leaked as it was ground so thin, they should have removed some material from the rod also and left a little more on the block.  I wound up re grinding the crank to a different crankpin and stroke and trimming pistons to make the best out of what he had to work with.  I re ground to a 5.5" stroke and used the Buda rod and re machined the pistons to keep the compression in check.  The pistons were just a set of overbore pistons for a 226 engine and I made rod bushings and cut snap ring groves in the pistons for the job.  I wouldn't have done it this way, but it's what we had to work with and make the best out of a bad situation.

The Farmall H and 350 rods clear well out to 5.5" stroke on the later blocks and I would say 5.4" on the earlier blocks with a little work.

The Farmall H and 350 rods use either a 2.25 or 2.29" crankpin.  The rod bores are the same, just different bearings.  They are 8" center to center.  I use them in some engines for the 3 and 4 mph guys that don't want to spend a pile.  Bore a set of overbore sleeves to 4.155" to clean them up, use a cheap automotive piston and Farmall rods on a 5.4 or 5.5" stroke.  Cheap parts that fit together well and build an easy to assemble engine for the guys that want to put their own engine together with minimal work.

The Buda rods clear decent, but they use a wider crankpin unless you narrow the rod.  This leaves the crank weaker than if you had a narrow crankpin.  The Buda rods are alright in most applications but really not for any serious power.  They are a straight cap rod, use a 2" crankpin and are 7.375" long. 

Chrystler industrial rods come in a few different lengths up to 8" and use a 2.062" crankpin.  They are a straight cap rod, easy to put BBC bolts in so you have good rod bolts.  They will clear about as well as buda rods but at least are long enough to keep a reasonable rod ratio and get you into common and cheap automotive pistons.


Herculees used a rod with a 2" crankpin, straight cap and 8" long.  They are close in size to the Buda rods for clearance, but a stronger rod.

I do have some Farmall, Herculees, and Chrystler rods here to sell off at minimal or reasonable cost if you wind up looking for some for your project.
It will cost you the same to stroke weather you go to 5" or 6" or whatever you do.  If you are set on useing some cheap take out rods these are good cantidates.

i have some u3019-40 wide blocks for sale thanks steve 507 766 0551