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CrestonM 
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Joined: 08 Sep 2014
Location: Oklahoma
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 Topic: Upgrading Headlights: Tripping Circuit Breaker
Posted: 20 Oct 2022 at 8:57pm |
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Hi guys, I took the factory headlights and work light off my maroon belly 7080 and installed LED work lights I got from Larsen. I ordered two different types of lights to put on the left and right side of the tractor to see which I liked best. Right now the total amperage of the new lights is 22. I read in the service manual the tractor has a 30 amp circuit breaker in the headlight circuit, so I didn’t think it would be a problem.
One common occurrence with the factory lights and the new LED lights is the light switch gets pretty warm while the lights are on.
After running the LED lights for about 20 minutes the lights got very dim and flickered, but didn’t go out completely. Turn the light switch off, wait 30 seconds or so, and they’ll come back on with full brightness for a little bit longer. Sometimes they’ll stay on 2-3 minutes, sometimes a little longer. Then they go out and flicker dimly.
I would think if it was tripping the circuit breaker, the lights would go out and stay out, but since they flicker, it makes me wonder if something else is going on. I would also think if it is a 30 amp breaker, it wouldn’t trip with a total of 22 amps going through it. Eventually I would like to add one more light to the tractor, and that would increase the total amperage to about 31. So I’m trying to figure out how to make the system safe with that many amps.
To make you all think a little bit more, I will add this note… The low beam forward driving lights illuminate very dimly anytime the key switch is turned on. The factory headlights did not do that, and I did not alter the wiring in any way.
Thanks!
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Michael V (NM)
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: NM
Points: 2408
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Posted: 20 Oct 2022 at 11:42pm |
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Warm or hot means a bad or loose connection, the switch could have bad,worn or dirty contacts. Any loose,dirty or corroded connections can cause problems.
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shameless dude
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Joined: 10 Apr 2017
Location: east NE
Points: 13607
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Posted: 21 Oct 2022 at 12:21am |
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yep...what Michael says! also I think I would replace the ole switch too.
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JC-WI
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: wisconsin
Points: 33828
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Posted: 21 Oct 2022 at 2:00am |
Creston, check out each headlight individually to see if any of
them are drawing more than the others. That is where I would start. Secondly,
just like old men, machinery (switches and wire can diminish as it gets
old as like dirt gets in the switches, breakers etc... and wire
breaking down from vibrations etc... or pinched a hot wire somehow. Best
to do would be to run a new fused hot wire up and put those lights on
their own separate circuit. and make sure you have good grounds and the
cab grounded too. Also check for maybe possible hot wire got some insulation rubbed off like going through a hole or under some other mounts.... Keep us posted on what you find.
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He who says there is no evil has already deceived himself
The truth is the truth, sugar coated or not. Trawler II says, "Remember that."
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CrestonM
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Joined: 08 Sep 2014
Location: Oklahoma
Points: 8391
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Posted: 21 Oct 2022 at 7:21am |
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Thanks guys, I’ll have to check that out. After however long it takes to get the dash pulled out. I hear that’s fun. Hopefully this winter I’ll get all the little problems like this resolved and it’ll be a nice tractor. Just one thing at a time.
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calico190xt68
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Joined: 12 Jan 2017
Location: Frankton, IN
Points: 803
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Posted: 21 Oct 2022 at 8:55am |
On my 7010, I replaced my front stadium lights with 4 individual LEDs from amazon at 42W each. I also replaced my 2 inside back stadium lights with a light bar that is at 312W and then added two 42W LED individual lights to the outside of the light bar so I could see better to the left and right from the back. i also replaced the right side fender with a side shooter LED light at 83W. I have had no problem when turning on the stadium lights. They work fine and apparently I haven't exceeded the fuse setting. I did all of this last year. The stadium lights do not run through the dash switch.
I also replaced the driving lights attached at the cab with LEDs from All States Ag rated at 18W. I didn't notice it until late this summer but after running the tractor with all of my lights on, my switch is getting hot and stopping my flashers from working. I also replaced my flashers with LEDS only on the front. Someone else on here reported that they replaced the switch and it fixed the problem of the overheating switch. I thought LEDs pulled less power than the old bulbs so I didn't think bulb replacement would cause the overheating of the switch. My cab driving lights continue to work even when the flashers go out. My situation is a minor inconvenience and yours is different.
Given all that I have done and the fact that I don't have issues like yours, it is possible that you have an old switch and/or a bad fuse/connection. The fuses for these lights are autoreset versions but in order for my flashers to work, the switch had to cool down. I couldn't wait for 20 minutes and they would start working if the switch was still hot. I was cutting hay at nighttime so it stayed hot.
I want to replace the fender red/yellow light and the rear flasher LEDs and then i will be all LED. Sometimes you have to install resistors to stop the hyper flashing on all flashing LEDs but I didn't think you needed a resistor for non-flashing lights. I think because I have two incandescents on my flashers right now, I don't have the hyper flashing. I guess I will see if I need a resistor.
To try and fix my problem, I am going to purchase a new switch and install it this winter. i won't know if it works until the summer though. I am guessing that a 7080 has the same lighting setup as a 7010 but then maybe not. Good luck. Tracking down a bad connection is quite difficult so starting with the switch might be good starting spot, in my opinion.
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80 7010, 80 7020. 67 190XTD Series I w/500 Loader, AC 2000 Plow, AC 4 row Planter, AC 77G Rake, Member Indiana A-C Partners, Member TAC
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steve(ill)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: illinois
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Posted: 21 Oct 2022 at 9:18am |
The low beam forward driving lights illuminate very dimly anytime the key switch is turned on. The factory headlights did not do that,....
so there is POWER to the headlights... but minimal... so the head light switch is "leaking" internally or you have a hot wire touching ( pinched) against the head light wire... something like JC was saying.
As JC said, it might be a good idea to put in a new BIGGER switch and run NEW wires to the lights... Could use two switches to divide the power... Running lights for road and flood lights for working.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Steve in NJ
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Andover, NJ
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Posted: 21 Oct 2022 at 5:51pm |
What you need to do is increase the size of the wire, and also wire in relays on the circuits you have running to the lamps. This takes the load off the switch. The switch is probably a low amperage rated switch. It probably wouldn't be a bad idea to make individual circuits and put the Headlights on one circuit with a relay, and the aux. lamp(s) on another circuit with relay. Between moving up a gauge with the wire and installing relays to handle the load, you should be good to go.... Steve@B&B
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39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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MACK
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Joined: 17 Nov 2009
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Posted: 21 Oct 2022 at 8:14pm |
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I'm a big believer in relays. MACK
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jaybmiller
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Greensville,Ont
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Posted: 22 Oct 2022 at 6:48am |
re: the light switch gets pretty warm while the lights are on.
THIS is the HUGE 'red flag' !!!
The switch should NOT get warm let alone 'pretty warm'.
The internal contacts are worn and 'look' like a very low ohm resistor. Electrical math of P=I squared R will be the power wasted as heat (aka 'pretty warm' ). I is amps, 22 for you,so even a small resistance means a LOT of watts = 'pretty warm'.
You need to have the switch control relays that power the LEDs.
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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CrestonM
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Location: Oklahoma
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Posted: 14 Nov 2022 at 10:51am |
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Thanks for the replies guys, I will keep all of this in consideration when I start working on the system this winter. Got a little more field work to do then it should be shop time. I’m sure I’ll have more questions when I get into it!
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DrAllis
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Posted: 14 Nov 2022 at 11:29am |
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Any extra lights added to the lighting circuit, is in the end, a bad idea. Put all EXTRA lights on a supply feed, circuit breaker and switch of their own !! This also has the side benefit of you will never lose all your lights at once if there's a problem...only half of them.
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CrestonM
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Posted: 14 Nov 2022 at 6:26pm |
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You make a good point, Doc. I've thought about adding the light bars at the top of the cab like a black belly, and if I do that, I'll definitely put them on their own circuit. I, too, like the idea of circuit breakers. Keeps all the current from flowing through the switch, and eliminates the need for such a big switch.
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JC-WI
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Location: wisconsin
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Posted: 16 Nov 2022 at 1:32pm |
Started putting lights on the 190XT. Light bar sure puts
light out the front, decided to put corner lights on and couple in the
back. But haven't finished the job yet. Will use heavy toggle
switches up on the cab fan shroud to feed front lights, toggle for side
lights and one for rear lights and fuse the feed wire from under the
cowling. Will be putting in heavier feed wire to also run the wipers and
fans and blinkers etc.
Had thought about putting in rocker
switches down next to the counsel, then I would have used the relays up
above for the lights and such, but don't need to turn them on and off
very often so simple will be the plan. 
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He who says there is no evil has already deceived himself
The truth is the truth, sugar coated or not. Trawler II says, "Remember that."
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tbran
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Posted: 16 Nov 2022 at 7:14pm |
Heed Doc's advice - also the 7000 series have two breakers on the firewall on the rh side of the engine on the cab wall. After years the breakers will corrode - there are two tied together with a brass bar. These need to be taken off and brushed and reinstalled every so often with dielectric grease. To access these look under the plastic cover flap - gently lift the lip of the cover and it will break off in your hand if it has not do so with someone else previously :-)
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When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money..
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plummerscarin
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Posted: 17 Nov 2022 at 6:27am |
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I added another breaker at that location for the light bars front and rear on my 7060.
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Chatahurya
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Joined: 01 Mar 2023
Location: Aberdeen
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Posted: 02 Jun 2024 at 1:14pm |
From my experience, it could be a couple of things causing the issue. The warm light switch and the dimly illuminated low beam forward driving lights when the key switch is turned on might indicate a potential wiring problem or a ground issue.As for the circuit breaker tripping, you're right that it seems odd with the total amperage well below its rating. It could be worth checking the breaker itself to make sure it's functioning properly and not overheating.Adding another light to the system will definitely increase the load, so ensuring everything is wired correctly and that you have proper circuit protection in place is key. MCBs could be a good option to consider for added safety and peace of mind.
Edited by Chatahurya - 04 Jun 2024 at 8:52am
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CrestonM
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Posted: 02 Jun 2024 at 3:40pm |
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This was a couple years ago, but I replaced the switch and that helped with the problem, then later when I had the tractor in the shop for some other work, I replaced the wiring, and added a new wiring circuit for extra lights, as the factory wiring wouldn't handle the load.
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HudCo
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Posted: 02 Jun 2024 at 9:26pm |
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make sure of all your grounds a good frame to cab ground
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