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Balancing n6 rotor

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bleeds orange View Drop Down
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Joined: 11 Sep 2012
Location: mt. vision, ny
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bleeds orange Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Balancing n6 rotor
    Posted: 06 Nov 2024 at 1:25am
Could someone point me in the right direction on how to balance my rotor at home? Doing just new thresher bars, not the separator bars they are ok. Plus I'm going to be adding 2 more paddles on discharge end. Thanks cory
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DrAllis View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Nov 2024 at 6:19am
I've changed a lot of parts on those rotors over the decades and never once balanced one or ever thought one needed balancing. We only do corn and soybeans and those desired threshing speeds were never an issue. Anyway, have the rotor installed in the cage and leave the gearbox in NEUTRAL and keep rolling it around and figure out if there is a heavy spot or not and add weights to spiders to make the heavy spot heavy directly opposite where it is.
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darrel in ND View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote darrel in ND Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Nov 2024 at 6:34am
If you change the cylinder bars in sets of two, the way they come, and install each set directly across from each other on the rotor, balancing shouldn't be necessary. Think that I only ever balanced one in my life, probably because someone replaced bars randomly instead of in sets. If I remember right, we put some sort of pilot shaft(probably old shaft out of a rotor drive gearbox) into the drive coupler, and found a bearing to fit on it. Then had the existing bearing on the other end. Propped both bearings up on jackstands, and spin it, ad weight to the opposite side of the heavy side. Repeat process until there is no longer a heavy side.
Darrel
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Nov 2024 at 6:29pm
My 62 will shake some when running full speed in high working the grease in the cam drive but at can and bean speed it's fine.
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bleeds orange View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bleeds orange Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Nov 2024 at 6:35pm
Thanks guys. Hopefully this weekend will be getting rotor back in and make sure its balanced. Just received new parts today. I did get my 4' unload auger extension almost finished aswell.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Nov 2024 at 6:57pm
Remove the end of the auger swing cylinder. Drop inside the cylinder a black pipe coupling about 2+ inches long and slightly smaller diameter than the cylinders barrel. This will raise up the unloader about 18 inches in height when swung out. I'll bet I've done 50 like that.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dirt Farmer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Nov 2024 at 10:00pm
Question for Dr Allis, will the 2 inch drop in trick for the unload cylinder work on an R62 as well since it's not chain linked, just looking for a simple trick to raise my auger to clear a grain cart. I always appreciate your professional insight and vast knowledge. Thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Nov 2024 at 10:11pm
No. Only the old style swivel. Buy or make yourself a long SPOUT like the old N-7's had. That is a HUGE improvement because it sits flatter and gets you out away from the wagons side more than a foot.
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