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CA Hydraulic Pump Priming Method

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dfwallis View Drop Down
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    Posted: 13 Oct 2024 at 10:30am
I had tried filling the pump before installing it, but without a check valve on the inlet (like later models), of course it ran out the inlet quickly before I completed the install.  What would be the best route to priming the pump given it never had a check valve on the inlet?  Should I remove the control valve after install and fill from the top?  Try filling from one of the output lines?  Should there even be such a problem with this older configuration?I'm certain there was plenty of oil in the inlet.  The oil runs into the pump inlet even before oil shows up on the dip stick and the transmission case was full to the 'rams extended' level.
1952 CA13092
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AC720Man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Oct 2024 at 8:05pm
We just installed front and rear cultivators on our CA last week and couldn’t get the pump to lift them. Loosened the cap at the rear remote(ours doesn’t have a Pioneer coupler on it) to bleed the air out of the system. Now it lifts just fine.
1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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dfwallis View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dfwallis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Oct 2024 at 11:45am
Status Update:  The AGCO guy found a burr that was messing with the control valve operation.  He also replaced the broken control valve spring with one from a WD pump.  The broken one (what was left) was about 4 inches in length.  Supposed to be 7 inches in length per one source. 

Anyway, although it took a considerable time to prime, it now raises, slowly, but does not seem to want to lower as long as the pump is running, although with the control lever down, you can apply quite a bit of force and push it down part way (with pump running).  It goes down fine with the pump not running and the handle down.  Initially, with the handle lowered, it slowly crept up.  It seemed to get slightly better as the test progressed.  With the handle all the way up, it seems to be applying maximum force (even if that may be a diminished maximum).

He did not replace the gasket on the front end (flow control adjustment).  He thought it would not leak there, but leaks quite profusely.  Also leaking around the check valve fittings.  I suspect he didn't tighten them or the copper seals need replacing.

I've seen postings with similar behavior, but haven't had time to review.  Ideas?
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dfwallis View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dfwallis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Oct 2024 at 8:20pm
The traction booster linkage is misadjusted...will see whether that helps tomorrow.

Edited by dfwallis - 26 Oct 2024 at 8:23pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Oct 2024 at 10:08pm
you need a plow or blade on the back to get the arms to drop ... you might be able to stand on the lower arm and get it to drop..
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dfwallis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Oct 2024 at 12:59am
I had about 100lbs hanging on it plus pushing down by hand. But I'll try more
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dfwallis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Oct 2024 at 3:15pm
Status Update:  It seems that the control mechanism is mal-adjusted.  I'm unsure where adjustment is needed.  The pump works best (full pumping force) with the traction booster lever just before the lock hole.  With the knob in the lock hole position, the main control works as follows (hold valve disabled):  Maximum lift occurs just before the full up position. This might be ok, with the slide/guard installed.  However, in all other positions, there is a slight lift action.  There is no lever down position (below the maximum lift position) that does not exhibit at least some lift action.  The only position that releases the lever arms is full up, just beyond the max lift position.  With the traction booster lever in the sweet spot (just before (to the rear) the lock position), the pump exhibits what I would remember as full pumping force.  It seems to have a pretty strong lift.  So I think the pump itself is fine except for some mal-adjustment (or assembly order problem).  I've had the thing apart 4 times and reassembled with all parts in the order specified in the I&T manual (I think).  The AGCO guy did the same thing last.  They at least have experience doing it. 

I've exhausted my time this trip.  I'm considering another trip in Nov, and/or taking the tractor to the (former) AGCO place. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ted J Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Oct 2024 at 3:46pm
Really sounds like the whole pump is not adjusted properly.
I'd have to go up to the farm and look at the book, but you need to adjust it according to the book.
On my CA's, when I put the lever down, the arms drop WITHOUT any weight on them.  They go slowly, but the go.
Either the pump is not working and needs an overhaul (pretty easy task - just BEWARE losing the balls or the springs!!!!!!)  or the LINKAGE is not adjusted correctly.  Double check the book and look at the linkage.  Make SURE that the detente hole and the pin are together.
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19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dfwallis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Oct 2024 at 4:30pm
Did an overhaul, 4 times per the boo. AGCO guy made the same thorough checks. All new checkballs, new springs, made sure reassembled per i&t manual...found a burr, fixed, found a broken control plunger spring, fixed. I do have an idea to check in a few weeks on an unplanned extra trip...I'm sure it will improve the behavior, maybe fully...if it does, I will be embarrassed yet again.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dfwallis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Nov 2024 at 2:46pm
With fresh more appropriate hydraulic fluid, the pump is priming itself now consistently.  Unfortunately, It still goes up in all lever positions.  With the lever full up, it behaves normally (fastest, strongest lift), however the lift is somewhat jerky in other positions and you can tell that the engine is loaded less except in full up position.  It lowers with the pump off with ease now (due to incorrect fluid viscosity), whereas it did not before, so improvement at least.

The only thing I can think of is the hold valve is not opening properly.  I've tried both the lockout position and the locked together position.  The behavior is not noticeably different.  Since I press-fit the CAM and plate back together in a prior repair, I have to assume that it is not aligned correctly, so I guess I'll start there.  

I also seem to be getting quite a bit of leakage at the top row of ports where the outlet check balls are serviced.  One of them has an incorrect sized copper washer but I haven't yet determined the exact one leaking.  I tried ensuring these were all good and tight and sealed at last repair attempt.  I guess I'll order a set of new copper sealing washers.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dfwallis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Nov 2024 at 5:36pm
Additional progress.  I've discovered two issues with the hold valve.  

1) There were no spring shims on the adjustment screw so the spring was not making contact with the check ball and caused it to chatter in the full out setting.

2) After adding a fresh detent ball bearing and cleaning up the sticking spring, the outward pressure on the cam plate increased and the clip and washer on the left side (non-control lever side) were not pulling the cam in quite far enough.  So it was not changing setting because it was riding outside of the channel.  There isn't very much room for error.  Too thin of a washer and it doesn't pull in, too thick and you can't get the clip on :( I used a different style clip this time that seems to be holding it in place better than the E clip.  At least I know what to look for.

As far as I can tell, (with adjustments for hold testing) the plate orientation is correct but I'm not fully sure of the behavior.  Unless the check valve is overcome by pressure going up, it seems that the "hold" check detent position (and full up position) would prevent the right port (left cylinder) from lifting.  At least it seems blocked with light air pressure, but it is against the check spring which is supposed to block down not up (I think).

I hope to test again soon but I need to let some sealant dry.

Winter storm is roaring this way, so this was the last 70 degree day for awhile I fear.  I'm not looking forward to working on it the rest of the week :(  But I do have some boring hole drilling things I can do and stand in one place by a heater.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Walker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Nov 2024 at 6:01pm
Just grabbing the lift arms and giving them a few ups and downs would get them in the mood to lift for me. They always come up on their own in their own time but this would expedite things.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dfwallis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Yesterday at 10:22am
No change in behavior.  It goes up perfectly in the lift position.  But it goes up (slower but still fast) in all non-full-up lever positions (drawbar control is disabled and in the lock position) and all screw adjustment settings (per the manual...and beyond).  In full up position, it behaves correctly with fast strong lift even at idle engine RPM.  I know the hold valve is open in the full down or thumb screw lock position (closed in the detent ball position).  I think I have to assume that the control valve itself is not shutting off fully.  AGCO guy said it was sticking and that he fixed that.

On the bright side, I got ALL the leaks fixed (until it comes apart again :(.  The copper sealing washers for the outlet check valve caps were not crush washers like I thought, they were just severely deformed copper washers.  But they cleaned up nicely and are now sealing.

Given that my trip is about over, I'm inclined to take the tractor to the AGCO guy and let him mull it over for awhile.  This long distance renovation work is a pain in the rear.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dfwallis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Yesterday at 12:17pm
Supplemental:  Disconnected the linkages to operate the control valve independently.  With drawbar control locked out, the only position of the control valve that does not attempt to lift (and also allows the arms to lower) is the fully disengaged position (linkage rotated to the top (counterclockwise) most position.  Any and all depression of the control valve plunger causes lift (when the hold valve is set to open and left there...but it does properly hold position when closed).  Thumb screw setting changes do not change this behavior.  The full lift position is with the control valve just barely depressed.  All other positions are very jerky lift.  With this behavior, it almost seems like the control mechanism is reversed (pulling the lever up releases pressure from the cylinders).  I sure wish I had better documentation.  So, there is no control plunger-depressed position that releases pressure from the cylinders.  AngryConfusedCry

Correction, turning screw D (delay control) in causes lift even in the full counterclockwise position (so all control plunger positions).  Fully out gets the above behavior.



Edited by dfwallis - Yesterday at 1:46pm
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