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rms61moparman(Ky) 
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Kentucky
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 Topic: One Sixty fuel sending unit
Posted: 21 Mar 2024 at 7:56pm |
Working on the dash on this tractor. Got all the lights working as they should except one fender light that the fixture was beyond hope. Started on the fuel gauge today after watching a few Youtube videos and the gauge itself is working. The sending unit however, won't pee a drop. Do any of you experienced AC mechanics have any information on one? Can they be repaired? Seems like the part is unobtanium. Is there a viable (universal or other tractor maybe) part that can be used in the tank? Anyone know the high and low ohms? Anyone have a part number? I sure wish the sender wasn't on the side of the tank, that would make it a lot easier.
Also, can anyone tell me a simple fix to make the gen light on the dash go out? some previous owner changed it over to a one wire alternator. I believe the pigtail is there for the other alternator. I got the light working but now it won't go out when the engine fires. Putting out ~ 14 volts on my multimeter.
Mike
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AC720Man
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Joined: 10 Oct 2016
Location: Shenandoah, Va
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Posted: 22 Mar 2024 at 10:15pm |
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I was unable to obtain a sending unit for my 160. I put my multimeter on the fuel gauge and passed that info onto a fella I found online. He was very helpful but could not guarantee it would work. The sending unit looked very close to mine but some of the holes were slightly off so I modified to fit. It works but it’s not quite accurate. I continue to check fuel level with my trusty wooden dowel rod lol.
As far as the gen light mine works as it should, either Steve on here may be able to answer that question. Electric issues is what they specialize in.
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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rms61moparman(Ky)
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Location: Kentucky
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Posted: 22 Mar 2024 at 11:39pm |
 AC720Man wrote:
I was unable to obtain a sending unit for my 160. I put my multimeter on the fuel gauge and passed that info onto a fella I found online. He was very helpful but could not guarantee it would work. The sending unit looked very close to mine but some of the holes were slightly off so I modified to fit. It works but it’s not quite accurate. I continue to check fuel level with my trusty wooden dowel rod lol.
As far as the gen light mine works as it should, either Steve on here may be able to answer that question. Electric issues is what they specialize in. |
Did you try to repair your old one?
I'm not a smart man but when a few of my other "forty-eleven" projects get finished up, I believe I'm going to pull mine out and tear into it. As a friend of mine used to tell me, it doesn't work now so you aren't going to tear it up!!! Mind to tell me what replacement you used? I firmly believe there is a cross reference part out there somewhere that would work, just have to find it.
Mike
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Flyer
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: TN
Points: 456
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Posted: 24 Mar 2024 at 6:33pm |
Depending on the alternator, there may be a terminal available on
it to drive the idiot light. When I restored my One-Sixty, one of the
reasons I stayed with the external regulator was to keep the generator
light functional.
I had the fuel sending unit on mine rebuilt. It wasn't cheap but I went a little nuts on the restoration.
Edited by Flyer - 24 Mar 2024 at 6:42pm
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An optimist sees the glass as half full. The pessimist sees the glass as half empty. The engineer sees a glass with double the required capacity.
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8070nc
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Joined: 21 Mar 2019
Location: North Carolina
Points: 505
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Posted: 24 Mar 2024 at 6:38pm |
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I like the line about the trusty wooden dowel. Works flawlessly. Ive got a broom handle on my service truck
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1984 80780
1957 D14
DES 300 with 25000 engine
616 tractor
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AC720Man
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Joined: 10 Oct 2016
Location: Shenandoah, Va
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Posted: 24 Mar 2024 at 7:06pm |
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Flyer I would like to know where you got yours repaired? I think I held onto my old one. Also some pictures of your 160 would be great, don’t get to see very many restored.
Mike I will look some more for the fella I got the sending unit from but so far I haven’t found that info.
Edited by AC720Man - 24 Mar 2024 at 7:26pm
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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Flyer
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Location: TN
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Posted: 24 Mar 2024 at 7:48pm |
I had the instrument cluster work and the fuel sending unit repair done by Bob's Speedometer ( https://www.bobsspeedometer.com). I found them in Hemmings Motor News. They do top-notch work but they also charge top-notch prices.
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An optimist sees the glass as half full. The pessimist sees the glass as half empty. The engineer sees a glass with double the required capacity.
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Flyer
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: TN
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Posted: 24 Mar 2024 at 7:53pm |
Some pictures I posted to FB following a snow storm we had in January. The tractor tends to draw some attention at the tractor shows.
Edited by Flyer - 24 Mar 2024 at 7:56pm
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An optimist sees the glass as half full. The pessimist sees the glass as half empty. The engineer sees a glass with double the required capacity.
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AC720Man
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Joined: 10 Oct 2016
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Posted: 24 Mar 2024 at 8:04pm |
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Wow, really nice job. Beautiful One-Sixty. First time I’ve seen the double step, it is a high step without it. Nice option to have. Thanks for the info I will give them a call.
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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rms61moparman(Ky)
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Location: Kentucky
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Posted: 24 Mar 2024 at 10:07pm |
DANG!!! That is one SHARP 160!!!
Mine will never look that good, but I'm trying my best to reverse at LEAST 20 years of neglect. Making strides, small strides but strides.
Mike
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Flyer
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Posted: 25 Mar 2024 at 5:14am |
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Thanks! I don't know what part of KY you're in but I'm planning to have the tractor at the show in Gray, TN at the end of April. Should be there all day Friday and Saturday unless the weather is absolute crap.
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An optimist sees the glass as half full. The pessimist sees the glass as half empty. The engineer sees a glass with double the required capacity.
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steve(ill)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: illinois
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Posted: 25 Mar 2024 at 8:32am |
The idiot light has two wires.. one side is connected to the ignition key and gets 12 v with the key ON... The other side is connected to the #1 spade terminal on the alternator and has zero voltage with the engine off and 12v with the alternator running... So when you turn the key ON.. 12v goes thru the LIGHT and it turns on.. When the alternator starts to spin and put out 12v it pushes BACK thru the light and the 12v on each side makes the light turn off..........
You can look at your 1 wire alternator and see if you have the 2 prong plug PLUGGED.. pull it off and check the voltage on the #1 terminal when OFF and when RUNNING. ... If your alternator does not have a usable plug.. then you need an "inline added box" that simulates what the alternator plug was doing... Something like this.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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steve(ill)
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Location: illinois
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Posted: 25 Mar 2024 at 8:39am |
I have never used this... normally rely on the alternator / amp meter on the dash... so i can not say now well it works... but this company seems to specialize in "WIRE STUFF".. SUMMIT is just one vendor that sells the "510287 box".
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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rms61moparman(Ky)
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Location: Kentucky
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Posted: 25 Mar 2024 at 9:47pm |
steve(ill) wrote:
The idiot light has two wires.. one side is connected to the ignition key and gets 12 v with the key ON... The other side is connected to the #1 spade terminal on the alternator and has zero voltage with the engine off and 12v with the alternator running... So when you turn the key ON.. 12v goes thru the LIGHT and it turns on.. When the alternator starts to spin and put out 12v it pushes BACK thru the light and the 12v on each side makes the light turn off..........
You can look at your 1 wire alternator and see if you have the 2 prong plug PLUGGED.. pull it off and check the voltage on the #1 terminal when OFF and when RUNNING. ... If your alternator does not have a usable plug.. then you need an "inline added box" that simulates what the alternator plug was doing... Something like this.
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Thank you!!! That is exactly what I was looking for!
You may be my new hero!
Mike
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