Wc flat top pistons in a 170

it will up your comp. and help

That's what I was afraid of. Even tho it was flat I didn't know about comp.
hiegth on this pistons. I tried to find something on this but I'm new to this
Fourm and didn't have any luck. Thanks for the help

Would I be better off to put a wd45 crank in my wc block.
Leave my wc rods and flat top pistond in it.
Put the 170 head,manifold and carb on it if possible and maybe the 170 govner spring.
From what I'm reading on this fourm that would make more comp. then what I have.
I'm running 16.9/26 field and roads with a rc ring and pinion.
I place in the 3500 at are small local pulls but that's it I don't even try the 4000.

Having a hard time believing a real 170 engine with 180 psi compression (carb included) powers out in a WC chassis weighing 3500 or 4000 lbs in low gear with an RC ring and pinion. I'm sorry. That engine must not be tuned/timed correctly, or you have way meaner dirt than I've ever been on. That engine (in good tune) with a 2-14's plow should run 3rd gear easily in the toughest soils with a WC ring and pinion, let alone an RC ring and pinion.

Take some pictures of BOTH sides of the engine, so it might be better verified what you really have. Engine s/n is behind the carb, behind the air cleaner hose/tube. If is really is a 170 engine, it will say 170-xxxxx or maybe 17-xxxxx.

Sounds like the correct engine. What is your mag timing set at ?? used a timing light, correct ??

Drallis im sure i sound like a idiot but That's just it I'm not sure how to time it.
I have a timing light but not sure where to check are there timing marks like a car.
If so wat should it be set at. Sorry for all the quistens.

Before you installed the engine, there were two marks on the OD of the flywheel near where the pressure plate mounting bolts are. One is "Fire" or "F" which is 30 degrees BTDC and the other mark is TDC.  Using a tape measure, the distance between the two marks is 30 degrees, so it's not hard to figure out where 25 degree BTDC is located, and make a chisel mark there for 25 degrees BTDC. Now, with the foot clutch cover removed, there is a pointer cast into the bottom front of the bellhousing. It's kind of crude, but the pointer is at 6 o'clock straight down. While laying on your back with the timing light AIMED at the flywheel and cast pointer, adjust the timing to 25 degrees BTDC with the engine running WIDE OPEN. Get rid of the mag and use the factory distributor. When in tune, this engine should run good and have way more HP than a WC engine ever did.

Put a distributer on it and get it timed right. That engine when tuned properly should have plenty of power.

a step down drops the speed about 1 mph from stock

Dr allis it does have more power then the wc motor.
I just thought it should make or perform better then it does.
After being on this fourm I now know what I need to do and check to make it run right.
As far as building a motor I was just asking for a rough estiment.
Even with a tuned allis 170 motor I still wouldn't compete with the 100 horse wc that 4 to 55 and win.
I asked about the step down cause I have a taller tire and its hard to stay under the three mph speed limit and keep some rpms up. So I guess I'm sorry for wasting your time but thanks for the information you've told me.

I'm with DrAllis, I'd check everything over on the 170 engine first. See if its cylinder pressure is up to par, governors acting properly, carb funtioning good, etc.

Dr. Allis