Wanting to build a new puller this winter

Message Topic Search Topic Options Post Reply Create New Topic Printable Version Translate Topic

   Hi, I just started pulling over this summer in the 3000lb stock farm dead weight classes locally. I have a 38 unstyled wc with a 201 1950 wd engine in it. It's all stock and I want to become more competitive next season. I really hate the hand brakes it's hard to pull them when you have to work the throttle and steer so.. what should I build I would like to pull in dead weight and transfer classes was thinking 4500 to maybe 6000. I have a wd chassie I just got a gleaner E M code motor as well. Please any help would be appreciated. Thank you

	This site is not affiliated with AGCO Inc., Duluth GA., Allis-Chalmers Co., Milwaukee, WI., or any surviving or related corporate entity. All trademarks remain the property of their respective owners. All information presented herein should be considered the result of an un-moderated public forum with no responsibility for its accuracy or usability assumed by the users and sponsors of this site or any corporate entity.
	The Forum	Parts and Services	Unofficial Allis Store	Tractor Shows	Serial Numbers	History

Author	Message Topic Search Topic Options Post Reply Create New Topic Printable Version Translate Topic
48ACWD Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Silver Level Joined: 06 Jan 2013 Location: Pennsylvania Points: 208	Post Options Post Reply Quote 48ACWD Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: Wanting to build a new puller this winter Posted: 22 Aug 2015 at 3:22pm
	Hi, I just started pulling over this summer in the 3000lb stock farm dead weight classes locally. I have a 38 unstyled wc with a 201 1950 wd engine in it. It's all stock and I want to become more competitive next season. I really hate the hand brakes it's hard to pull them when you have to work the throttle and steer so.. what should I build I would like to pull in dead weight and transfer classes was thinking 4500 to maybe 6000. I have a wd chassie I just got a gleaner E M code motor as well. Please any help would be appreciated. Thank you

Sponsored Links

DrAllis Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 20398	Post Options Post Reply Quote DrAllis Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 22 Aug 2015 at 4:22pm
	I can't imagine a WD being very competitive starting out at 4500 pounds and going up to 6000 pounds?? A WD isn't too hard to make weigh 3500 lbs or a little less.

WF owner Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 12 May 2013 Location: Bombay NY Points: 4648	Post Options Post Reply Quote WF owner Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 23 Aug 2015 at 11:44am
	My narrow front end WD 45 goes in the 3500 with me (~300 lbs.) on it. I have removed the platform, rock shaft, lift arms, belt pulley, hydraulic cylinders and PTO shaft. I have rear rims from a D-17 and 16.9 x 28 rubber. You could also remove the hand clutch, hydraulic pump and (maybe) the PTO gearbox. I have been told the WC narrow front is much lighter than the WD/WD-45 narrow front. You won't have much moveable weight in the 3000 lb. class, so you may want to have a lot of room for adjustment in your hitch, to balance the tractor. Edited by WF owner - 23 Aug 2015 at 11:48am

Ken(MI) Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Lansing, MI Points: 618	Post Options Post Reply Quote Ken(MI) Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 24 Aug 2015 at 8:30am
	A WD is a great 3500 lb. dead weight tractor, but you will need to put it on a weight loss program to get it there, as mentioned above. With a stock engine, it won't do 4500, Gleaner E will get it there, biggest problem is balance and tires, you can go to 38" rubber, but the gearing is too fast for dead weight. The WC gives you many more options, as you can run 36" tires, lower gearing is easily available, and if everything is right, with a properly set up early un-styled rear end, you shouldn't need to reach for the brakes, upgrade the engine and it's a great tractor from 3000 through 4500 in dead weight.

48ACWD Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Silver Level Joined: 06 Jan 2013 Location: Pennsylvania Points: 208	Post Options Post Reply Quote 48ACWD Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 25 Aug 2015 at 8:04pm
	I have the chance to buy a 34 unstyled wc. Would this tractor have the lower rear gears and if so would this be a better candidate for the Gleaner E motor. I would really like to get into doing some transfer pulling as well, will I have the power I need turn 36 or 38's in the 4500 class? Thanks

Charlie175 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Shenandoah, VA Points: 6358	Post Options Post Reply Quote Charlie175 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 26 Aug 2015 at 5:50am
	I just pulled last night at our local fair in 5000 farm class (Big sled) with the WD (E Z Code and 13.6x38's) and I ran out of power way before the end. My stock D17 put 75' on it.
	Charlie '48 B, '51 CA, '56 WD45 '61 D17, '63 D12, '65 D10 , '68 One-Ninety XTD

48ACWD Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Silver Level Joined: 06 Jan 2013 Location: Pennsylvania Points: 208	Post Options Post Reply Quote 48ACWD Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 26 Aug 2015 at 7:41pm
	I don't have a lot of money to spend on this build as I need to buy weight as well and we all know that's pricey. So can anyone tell me which way I should go with this. I have a E M code motor a wd chassie a RC rolling chassie and a 38 Unstyled WC that I'm using in 3000 dead weight class and a low serial 34 unstyled wc Im interested in buying. I have options but don't know the pulling ways with these AC tractors. Without actually building a engine to make lots of power will this M code with any of these chassis get me anywhere in transfer pulling. We start at 4500 class in this western style pulls. Thanks any info will help

Gary in da UP Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: EUP of Mi. Points: 1885	Post Options Post Reply Quote Gary in da UP Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 26 Aug 2015 at 8:34pm
	Use the RC chassis with the M engine , look for a V code G226. If your starting at 4500 and wanting to go heavier a D17 would be more better.

Ken(MI) Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Lansing, MI Points: 618	Post Options Post Reply Quote Ken(MI) Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 27 Aug 2015 at 5:00am
	It depends on your local rules, around here, most dead weight clubs have rules that hold you to original tire diameters, so a WC must run 24, 28, or 36 inch rubber, an RC is limited to 28 inch, and the WD would be 28 and 38. Our transfer clubs allow more room to work in that area and allow 38's on just about anything. With what you have to work with, I would take the RC ring and pinion and put it in the early styled WC chassis with the M motor and 38 inch rubber if allowed, that combination will do a reasonable job for everything you are trying to accomplish, and you should still be able to make 3000# if you desire. Around here if you use the RC rear end, the tractor is considered an RC, it is considerably lighter (about 200#) than the early WC rear end, and no where near as durable, the lightest rear end housings are the RC and late WC with the welch plug in the center of the housing, the very heaviest are the early ones through about mid 1936, over 140# heavier, just in the housing, and the RC has a lighter differential, axles, hubs, and bull gears on top of that.