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170 steering question |
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DrAllis
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 20697 |
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Posted: 10 Oct 2024 at 9:38pm |
And as far as trying to change it over to the later design with the hydraulic cylinder sideways?? I don't know how you'd ever do it nice with the wishbone of the axle in your way. The later tractors got rid of that, moving it forward and then having an open area for the long single tie rod and power steering cylinder. And then, there would be the expense of doing such a task.
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Steve A
Silver Level Joined: 12 Apr 2012 Location: NLP Mi Points: 215 |
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Yep. When I discovered the problem the roll pin was broken and the arm hanging down. Judging by rust and dirt on broken pin it was that way for a lot of years before I bought it. Tie rods were worn out and I replaced them, which had to be a factor. It will break a new pin, so I have a smaller pin driven into the larger one to re-enforce it. Good winter project to fix the right way. I wont use it too much until then. Thanks again!
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DrAllis
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 20697 |
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Make sure you leave out the roll pin and drive the arm on to the shaft TIGHT before welding the end of the shaft to the arm.
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Steve A
Silver Level Joined: 12 Apr 2012 Location: NLP Mi Points: 215 |
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Thanks for the advice. I was wary of welding it but will give it a try.
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DrAllis
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 20697 |
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My fix has always been install a new seal (or two seals) on the shaft, leave the roll pin out and drive the swing arm on as far as you can drive it with a 3 lb hammer and a piece of pipe or large socket. The arm is now tight at the top. Now, weld it on the bottom. You'll never work on it again. Both the splines on the shaft and the swing arm are worn out. You've got little to lose.
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Steve A
Silver Level Joined: 12 Apr 2012 Location: NLP Mi Points: 215 |
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I have the early model 170 with the rack and pinion which turns the steering arm. The teeth on the shaft, and the arm are both very worn. At some point it's going to give out. When it does, I've thought of removing the arm and converting it over to something similar to the later 170/175 by building a single tie rod with screw in ends and adding a hydraulic steering cylinder and connecting that to the hoses from the orbital. Anybody ever do that? Reasons why it wouldn't work?
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