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Kensteer 
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Location: Georgia
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 Topic: Allis Chalmers D-15 Carb and Regulator
Posted: 04 Oct 2024 at 9:37pm |
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Installed new carb on the old tractor. Runs good then quits. A see the adjustment screw on top left side. Should I turn this screw with engine running, or what should I do? Maybe it was set at the factory? I also want to install a new regulator. The current one only has one wire going to the left terminal and no other terminals have a wire. How do I wire a new regulator? And where should I buy it?
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steve(ill)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: illinois
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Posted: 05 Oct 2024 at 8:13am |
This is a 12 volt NEGATIVE GROUND wire diagram.. the wires will connect like this.. If your battery has the POSTIVE terminal grounded, it just changes polarity, not wire location.
Edited by steve(ill) - 05 Oct 2024 at 8:14am
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 05 Oct 2024 at 8:17am |
the carb adjustment screw normally will not make the engine DIE.. It will just make it run better or worse.. Turn the screw clockwise until it is bottomed out. Count the turns to get it closed.. Should be about 1.5 turns ..... Back it out to 1.5 turn ( 3 half turns)... that is the starting point..
If the engine "dies" after running. tell us how long it ran... 5 seconds or 1 minute ? You might be running out of gas, not using the choke correctly, or have an electrical problem with the coil / condenser.
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Kensteer
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Posted: 05 Oct 2024 at 8:36am |
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You Fellas are awesome. Thanks for the diagram and the replies. One thing that happens is if I for get to turn the key switch off, after a little while the coil gets red hot. It must not be wired properly. I do have a new wiring harness, which is partially installed. Do you have a wiring diagram for wiring harness? Maybe that is why I have this hot coil problem. Possible wrong wire from switch sending current when engine stops.
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 05 Oct 2024 at 9:06am |
I posted the above drawing that is GENERIC becasue it is a simplified version of ANY tractor........ Yours should look more like this...
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 05 Oct 2024 at 9:12am |
service manual does not show the colors of the wires on the D15... here is the D14... it MIGHT be similar... no guarantee..
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 05 Oct 2024 at 9:14am |
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Key sends power to the coil.. If the POINT in the distributor is CLOSED, then you have a path to GROUND and YES... the coil will get hot.. You could also burn the face of the point inside the distributor... possible it can damage the coil..
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Kensteer
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Posted: 05 Oct 2024 at 2:26pm |
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Thank you so much for your help. It is very appreciated.
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Kensteer
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Posted: 05 Oct 2024 at 3:01pm |
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It dies when I try to move it. After I let the clutch out. Besides that, when it is sitting still, it may run fine for 30 seconds or so. Then it will stop like you just turned off the switch. I am going to look at the points face and see if they are smoked up.
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 05 Oct 2024 at 4:09pm |
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will the tractor roll in neutral ? Its not locked up in the trans or final drive that is killing the engine ? Does the engine rev up and run at HIGH IDLE ? If it dies after 30 seconds just setting still, it sounds like your running out of gas... take the line off at the carburetor and see if you have a constant flow from the gas tank / sediment bowl / tube...
Edited by steve(ill) - 05 Oct 2024 at 4:11pm
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Clayfoot
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Posted: 05 Oct 2024 at 4:30pm |
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For the carb, what I've seen is to turn the high speed load jet (top left of the carb) in until it starts, then back out 1.5 while turns for an initial setting, but tractor needs to be warm with a load on it to dial it in the easiest. 3 turns out more equates to a dirty carb. But this is all assuming to got a replacement Marvel Schebler carb. I think 1.5 turns out for the idle screw (top center-ish) is the initial setting for it too.
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Kensteer
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Posted: 05 Oct 2024 at 6:17pm |
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Yes Sir, It will roll and is not locked up. I have already moved it about 100 ft. But now, it seems like it is not getting fire. The battery side of coil is hot. The distributor side is hot when I turn the engine over. It has been running off and on until this afternoon. Point don't look bad. But I need to check again and see if there is spark there.
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 05 Oct 2024 at 6:34pm |
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yea... i would check for spark... sounds like the old coil could be a problem.. they get warm, but should not be HOT after minimal running..
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Kensteer
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Posted: 07 Oct 2024 at 12:25pm |
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Turns out spark was not the problem. I did set the timing by ear, since I don't have a timing light. My problem is unfortunately rust in the gas tank. That is one pain in the neck problem. I took the tank off about two years and I employed a few different methods to clean it out. But, with the tractor setting up, the rust is back again. I know if I take it to the radiator shop, they can do an acid soak and that will clean it up real good. I just wish there was a way that would work well, but allow me to leave the tank on. It has five gallons of gas in it. But I see rust in the settling bowl. I am sure the copper screen inside there is likely stopped up again.
Edited by Kensteer - 07 Oct 2024 at 12:28pm
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 07 Oct 2024 at 12:44pm |
we had an old backhoe that had set in the field for 15 years.. Tank was rusted inside.. I removed and cleaned what i could, but in the end i got a BIG INLINE filter and a couple feet of rubber hose. Put the filter in line to the carb and changed it out every 3 months for 2 years... No more problems..
i actually removed the sediment bowl and put a nipple with a TEE below that.. ran the horizontal to the carb and put a 6 inch long nipple straight down with a cap on the bottom.. I would remove the cap every 8 hours and drain out any crud that had settled in the tube.. After several drains, that was no longer needed... just let the filter do the work.
Edited by steve(ill) - 07 Oct 2024 at 12:47pm
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Kensteer
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Posted: 07 Oct 2024 at 1:59pm |
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that sounds like pretty good plan. Thank you.
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