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macvette 
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Joined: 13 Jun 2011
Location: nekoosa, wi
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 Topic: Toggle switch for snowblower spout motor?
Posted: 19 Oct 2016 at 1:58am |
Just bought a used blower for my 620.
Do I need a 3 way toggle switch to mount in the dash to make the blower snout turn both ways? Want to make sure I get the right one when I go to the auto parts store! (they don't like to take anything electrical back).
Thanks.
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jaybmiller
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Greensville,Ont
Points: 22464
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Posted: 19 Oct 2016 at 6:10am |
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OK I don't have your machine here but...I did add a linear actuator to my snoblorider last fall to raise/lower the spout.Same deal more or less...
What you probably need is called a DPDT center off momentary 12V DC 15 amp switch.
It should have 6 tabs on it( 2 columns or 3 rows). Spout motor leads go to the 2 center ones,+12 and ground go to the other 4 in an X pattern.
+12 gnd
Mot+ Mot-
gnd +12
It's a very common switch,some even come 'prewired' for the 'X' !
In the 'up' position... +12 goes to motor+, gnd goes to motor-, so motor turns say clockwise
In the 'dn' position, gnd goes to motor+, +12 to motor-, so motor turns counter clockwise.
hope this helps..
if you were 'next door', I'd toss you one out of my parts drawer...
Jay
Should cost around $10
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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macvette
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Location: nekoosa, wi
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Posted: 19 Oct 2016 at 9:03am |
Yep, not quite next door - but thanks much for your help.
Been removing snow for some years with the blade on my 620, and my wife is disappointed with my scalping on some portions of the lawn going back to my storage building. (Our lawn is not very smooth). Plow shoes are set low for driveway. Blower should help this problem.
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Gatz in NE
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Lincoln, NE
Points: 1036
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Posted: 19 Oct 2016 at 10:44am |
this is a schematic of what I used for Linear Actuator to raise and lower the chute on a JD snowblower; The actuator & switch came from Surplus Center This actuator has built-in limits making it easy to set up. However, when using this kind, the extended & retracted positions must be allowed for; you don't want to "dead-head" this type.  And here's one for a reversible DC motor, using limit switches. This was used on a Toro snowblower for my nephew. Very simple, but must use limit switches for this set up.  On the spout rotator for the JD snowblower mentioned above, I used a car power window gear-motor, but didn't use any limit switches. Instead, from the output shaft a slip-clutch mechanism was made to protect the motor and worm drive on the spout. This is what drove the worm drive on the original manual spout rotator. It was adjustable for the amount of slip. Took a while to build but works great. https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3aCnHEiA6COYkNXZVJ4bTJUSDg http://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3aCnHEiA6COYkNXZVJ4bTJUSDg
Edited by Gatz in NE - 19 Oct 2016 at 11:00am
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macvette
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Posted: 20 Oct 2016 at 7:01am |
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Thanks, guys for the help. Now I just need to get it done before it snows! Think I can do it now, tho!
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jaybmiller
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Greensville,Ont
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Posted: 20 Oct 2016 at 7:45pm |
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If you 'need' limit switches you should NOT be operating the machine! Common sense and a reasonably good set of eyeballs should tell you when you're near the 'end of travel',as well no damage is done to the motor. If you 'stall' it long enough the fuse might blow, might.....
Limit switches are great on automated equipment but not necessary.
They also will cause you no end of grief when one 'randomly' fails !!!!
Jay
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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Gatz in NE
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Location: Lincoln, NE
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Posted: 20 Oct 2016 at 9:48pm |
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Jay, that's BS
I can tell you this; Limit switches are definitely needed on setups that have no other provisions for "end-of-travel" I would never work on or with a machine that lacks them.
You're mistaken if you think that just a set of eyeballs combined with even plentiful common sense is enough to ensure trouble-free and safe operation.
What ?...are you or another operator going to test fate every time the mechanism is actuated; carefully craning & straining the neck just to see around the obstacles that may be present, like the tractor hood or the snowblower itself?
Sure as heck, cousin Eddie is going to max it out, just to see what will happen.
Oh...it quit ?? It must've stalled out.... imagine that.
Ah, and we forgot to put a fuse in that connection.
Common sense ??..Who is going to be running your machine?...just you?
Your eyesight must be excellent.
But are you going to allow another operator to run your machines with less than perfect eyeballs and give him/her enough instructions so that you can walk away??
gatz
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DSeries4
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Location: Ontario, Canada
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Posted: 20 Oct 2016 at 10:09pm |
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Calm down guys, he does not need a linear actuator of any kind to begin with. The switch he needs is a simple 3 position switch with "off" in the middle position. It should not hold in any other position - it must return to the neutral position. It looks like any other switch in the dash, except for the differences noted above. Brenda at Sandy Lake can hook you up with one.
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'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
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jaybmiller
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Posted: 21 Oct 2016 at 6:11am |
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Gatz...In a 'perfect world' , yes limits would be there. Internal to the motor,out of harm's way of snow, water, salt, dust,dirt, etc.Something like reed switches and magnets would be real nice.Linear actuators are built similar to this. However. I've yet to see ANY power window motor setup for cars or pickups that actually had limit switches in them. Yes, they do have a self resetting circuit breaker close to the motor,but no 'limit' switches,even my Honda tracked snowblower that has electrical joystick control for both chute and spout doesn't have limit switches.
Now cars with 'auto' up windows feature, do have a current sense module so that when the window goes fully up and stalls the motor, it 'sees' the stall current and cuts power to the motor. It of course costs a lot more than a simple mechanical switch though. I've designed and built them, and the major problem is not every motor is the same so each unit needs to be calibrated for run vs stall current,hot and cold temps,10volt, 14 volts,etc.Modules are great as being 'universal' though, no need to know travel height,motor gears,etc. They are 'supposed' to stop travel when someone puts their head or arm in the window opening and.....prevent....'pain'.
Like I originally said, he just needs a $20, DPDT center off, momentary 12VDC 20A switch and wire like picture #1 that you supplied. It'll work fine.
Jay
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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Steve in NJ
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Andover, NJ
Points: 11808
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Posted: 21 Oct 2016 at 6:35am |
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The Jaybird is correct. All he needs is a double throw double pole self centering toggle rated at 15-20 amps. I keep em' in stock for just this type of purpose. Had one on my 716H with dozer plow. Works fine.
Steve@B&B
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39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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