Synthetic Oil for an Onan

I don't know about anyone else but I use a straight 20/30 w oil in my older engines. I do use Mobil 1 in my Exmarks though. I'm sure there's plenty of comments one way or the other but this my choice.

My Bad Boy ZT has Royal Purple Synthetic in it. The PO bought it new and has been running Royal Purple in since he owned it. I figured, why change? So I continue to run the same in it. I just put Synthetic in my "HT" Honda rider, and the snow blower this Fall. I figured I'd try the Synthetic to see if it works a little better in keeping the valves lubed. Had some issues the past couple years with this ethanol in the fuel making the valves stick in the small engines. So far, things are working out. I've always been a regular motor oil guy all my life, changing the oil & filter in my vehicles every 3000/3500 miles, but it seems this Ethanol is playing havoc with these small air and water cooled engines. The one vehicle I've always had Synthetic in is the wifes CTS Caddy. That came with it originally, so that's what I stayed with. I'm using 5-30 in everything. Every once n' a while I had to throw some Seafoam in the tank to keep the valves from stickin'. I guess I'll see how the Synthetic works....

39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife

Shaun, give it time

So true - what oil to use ideas are like belly buttons - everyone has one !

As many small engines on lawn mowers run at a set high RPM and in dusty conditions oil needs to be changed regularly - now newer engines have oil filters it seems so change interval may be extended - same with air filtering of intake air has improved IF directions are followed -

Operating temp or ambient temp unit is used in and time running also merit the time between changing oil . Where 25 hours might have been the old rule 100 hours can now be run easily or if your adventurous you can try for 500 or 1,000

I have stuck with high grade of regular oils (multi-weight) in all my things with wheels or tracks.
Way back when doing industrial maintenance we ran tests on synthetics in gearboxes - claims of longer life of oil, less heat buildup, less wear, and cost of product over use lifetime . The major claims by synthetic sellers ended up to be verbal testimonials rather than proven fact - in other words - between snake oil and fact - for the buck the regular oil worked as well and at lower cost over life .

Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful."

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V2Inc Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 17 Aug 2015 Location: Ft Knox, KY Points: 32	Post Options Post Reply Quote V2Inc Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: Synthetic Oil for an Onan Posted: 22 Nov 2016 at 6:58am
	I'm able to use synthetic oil in some of my newer 4 cycle engines and I want to know if this type of oil will work in my 616 Onan engine? If anyone uses synthetics in their older engines, how it working out, what's the replacement cycle? Ken
	Allis Chalmers 616 w/60" Blade, 48" Rotary Tiller & Plow - Cool Man Stuff

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ac720nut Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 09 Feb 2016 Location: Dexter Mi Points: 1217	Post Options Post Reply Quote ac720nut Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 22 Nov 2016 at 9:10am
	I don't know about anyone else but I use a straight 20/30 w oil in my older engines. I do use Mobil 1 in my Exmarks though. I'm sure there's plenty of comments one way or the other but this my choice.

V2Inc Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 17 Aug 2015 Location: Ft Knox, KY Points: 32	Post Options Post Reply Quote V2Inc Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 30 Nov 2016 at 5:07pm
	Thanks, to be safe I'll stick with the good old oil the owner manual calls for. Ken
	Allis Chalmers 616 w/60" Blade, 48" Rotary Tiller & Plow - Cool Man Stuff

Steve in NJ Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Andover, NJ Points: 11808	Post Options Post Reply Quote Steve in NJ Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 01 Dec 2016 at 6:40am
	My Bad Boy ZT has Royal Purple Synthetic in it. The PO bought it new and has been running Royal Purple in since he owned it. I figured, why change? So I continue to run the same in it. I just put Synthetic in my "HT" Honda rider, and the snow blower this Fall. I figured I'd try the Synthetic to see if it works a little better in keeping the valves lubed. Had some issues the past couple years with this ethanol in the fuel making the valves stick in the small engines. So far, things are working out. I've always been a regular motor oil guy all my life, changing the oil & filter in my vehicles every 3000/3500 miles, but it seems this Ethanol is playing havoc with these small air and water cooled engines. The one vehicle I've always had Synthetic in is the wifes CTS Caddy. That came with it originally, so that's what I stayed with. I'm using 5-30 in everything. Every once n' a while I had to throw some Seafoam in the tank to keep the valves from stickin'. I guess I'll see how the Synthetic works....
	39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife

ShaunE Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Access Joined: 03 May 2015 Location: Wisconsin Points: 52	Post Options Post Reply Quote ShaunE Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 16 Dec 2016 at 9:47am
	I use Mobil 1 10w-30 in my 720. The infamous oil question...if this was a snowmobile forum, you'd have 50 pages with more scientific facts than there are scientific facts.

ac720nut Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 09 Feb 2016 Location: Dexter Mi Points: 1217	Post Options Post Reply Quote ac720nut Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 16 Dec 2016 at 10:43am
	Shaun, give it time

Steve in NJ Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Andover, NJ Points: 11808	Post Options Post Reply Quote Steve in NJ Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 05 Jan 2017 at 6:37pm
	LOL! Good one Lloyd!
	39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife

Coke-in-MN Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Afton MN Points: 41580	Post Options Post Reply Quote Coke-in-MN Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 06 Jan 2017 at 11:27am
	So true - what oil to use ideas are like belly buttons - everyone has one ! As many small engines on lawn mowers run at a set high RPM and in dusty conditions oil needs to be changed regularly - now newer engines have oil filters it seems so change interval may be extended - same with air filtering of intake air has improved IF directions are followed - Operating temp or ambient temp unit is used in and time running also merit the time between changing oil . Where 25 hours might have been the old rule 100 hours can now be run easily or if your adventurous you can try for 500 or 1,000 I have stuck with high grade of regular oils (multi-weight) in all my things with wheels or tracks. Way back when doing industrial maintenance we ran tests on synthetics in gearboxes - claims of longer life of oil, less heat buildup, less wear, and cost of product over use lifetime . The major claims by synthetic sellers ended up to be verbal testimonials rather than proven fact - in other words - between snake oil and fact - for the buck the regular oil worked as well and at lower cost over life .
	Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something. "Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful."