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CA Cylinder Rebuild Info (Update)

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wkpoor View Drop Down
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    Posted: 01 Jun 2012 at 4:51pm
I've got a R/H cylinder that leaks just a tad. Coming from the threads on the aft body. I think this might be whats causing my pump issue. When cultivating you have to leave the handle back because the cylinders are split. Only the L/H cylinder has the hold function. When I stop moving I can't overcome the pump wanting to rebuild pressure without pulling it out of gear and releasing the clutch. Been wondering about this problem. Thats when I noticed a small leak on the R/H cylinder.

Edited by wkpoor - 04 Jun 2012 at 12:07pm
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JarrodACFan View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JarrodACFan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jun 2012 at 4:58pm
I'd like to know too because my LH and maybe RH cylinders leak.
1956 WD45 Narrow Front Factory Power Steering, 1953 WD Wide Front
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jun 2012 at 5:06pm
Tighten the packing nut to stop any leak but don't over do it. The packing needs to weep a bit of oil for lubrication or you'll tear up the packing. When cultivating your control handle should be all the way down with no lift at all on the cult.
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Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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wkpoor View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wkpoor Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jun 2012 at 5:15pm
I knew this would be confusing. I'm talking about when you lift the cultivators and then stop to change gears or go in reverse. When you push in the clutch and then release its like the tractor is locked. Its because the pump is trying to cycle on pressure again. And the leak I'm talking about is not the packing, its the aft body threads.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jun 2012 at 7:10pm
OK, if the pump is still trying to lift, you don't have much choice but to roll it over in neutral till you can get it in the gear you want unless you put the PTO in neutral. Never heard of a CA cylinder leaking in the back end. Might have to disassemble it and put some pipe dope on it and reassemble. Check for cracks in the casting or the tube while you have it apart but there is nothing on that end to "rebuild".
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Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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wkpoor View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wkpoor Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jun 2012 at 8:01pm
I think I'll trouble shoot this first by putting a plug in the hose outlet of the pump control body. That way I'll know if the leak is my pump problem. I figure it wouldn't take much of leak to lose enough pressure to cause the unloader to try and cycle back up to max pressure.
I'll bet few people realize the hold feature only applies to the L/H cylinder. By splitting them up and taking the R/H off the rear rock shaft I realized the only way to keep up the front gange is to leave the handle back thus this problem reared its ugly head. The gang delay works perfect though. Just how many people in this world still exist that have any idea about using this tractor with cultivators. Few I imagine.


Edited by wkpoor - 01 Jun 2012 at 8:05pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wkpoor Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jun 2012 at 12:15pm
I tore down the cylinder. The pipe section has plain straight fine threads. Couldn't see tape or dope holding back 3500 psi on straight threads. Looked at my inventory of spares and they are all covered in grease in that same area which tells me its pretty common leak point. The original intent is for it to be a metal to metal seal where the pipe bottoms out on both ends of both forward and aft body. My fix was to install an oring of a size that just fits between the pipe end and the part it crews into. I put the same oring on both ends of the pipe. Threaded it together just snug and so far no leaks. The oring can't impede the metal to metal fit though. It has to have a thin enough rope size the be squeezed into the space between the 2 diameters.
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