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repaired my track adjuster
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jerbob View Drop Down
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Joined: 07 Aug 2017
Location: Michigan
Points: 961 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jerbob Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: repaired my track adjuster
    Posted: 23 Oct 2017 at 8:38am
started a new post as the original one is a couple of months old. Had ordered 2 new seals for my hydraulic track adjusters. Had time this weekend to work on the right side which was blowing grease out and ram would not move. I had taken the entire idler yoke and adjuster out as a complete unit and was working to get the adjuster rod to separate from the ram. As you will see I gave up on that thinking why bother. I was able to pull the ram and rod out as a unit to replace the seal.
What a piece of cake that was. Seal us a solid hard rubber type compound and is flared. When I pulled out the ram the old seal remained in the bottom of the cavity but was easy to get out with flat piece of wood which allowed me to remover all the old grease as well.

I swear the old seal is a standard 2" gasket from a plumbing tailpiece you can get at any hardware store. I is identical to one of those as you can see. The new gasket is shown next to the old one. Putting it in was easy. I turned the new gasket 90 degrees so it went in sidewise and cold be pushed to the bottom of the cylinder. Then is used a wooden dowel to push the gasket down flat in the bottom of the cavity. The Ram just slid in and rested on the gasket like it is supposed to. Working like a champ.

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jerbob View Drop Down
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Joined: 07 Aug 2017
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Points: 961 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jerbob Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Oct 2017 at 8:43am
Forgot to mention that the pics are pre- polishing the ram and cylinder. I used wire wheel and emory cloth to polish. The cylinder was not pitted and in very good shape, the ram was very good up till the last inch. Polished up pretty good all in all. I know this is minor in the scope of work on a piece of equipment like this, however I am always pleased when something works out like this. Next is working on left side which is not leaking but idler is froze. Will be using a 10 ton porta power on it in conjunction with the adjuster. I can also use a chain and come along off the blade to help move the idler wheel assembly to get it moving. Not worried on this one.
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CAL(KS) View Drop Down
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Joined: 18 Sep 2009
Location: Chapman, KS
Points: 3786 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CAL(KS) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Oct 2017 at 8:53am
If you cant get it to move I would bet money leaving the adjuster slack and running the dozer would work the idler loose.
Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20

Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15
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jerbob View Drop Down
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Points: 961 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jerbob Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Oct 2017 at 9:16am
Good thought Cal. I am pleased the ram is not leaking and I put a lot of pressure on it so I think I will just leave it and take the old girl out for a walk and see what happens. I'm not patient on this type of approach. I can't seem to just leave it alone. LOL. I will be firing up the girl this weekend as I just installed new batteries, and am replacing the battery cables with new 00 welding cable. You suggestion on a hose cover is going to work well. 3/4" garden hose will work nicely in all the sensitive places.
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CAL(KS) View Drop Down
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Joined: 18 Sep 2009
Location: Chapman, KS
Points: 3786 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CAL(KS) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Oct 2017 at 10:23am
I think it was actually Coke's suggestion but I do it as well.   you might take a look at the shims on the idler where it sits on the track frame.  Likely they have rusted and expanded and that's why the idler wont move, but a little usage will probably work it loose.

Edited by CAL(KS) - 23 Oct 2017 at 10:24am
Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20

Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15
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jerbob View Drop Down
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Joined: 07 Aug 2017
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Points: 961 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jerbob Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Oct 2017 at 11:09am
Originally posted by CAL(KS) CAL(KS) wrote:


I think it was actually Coke's suggestion but I do it as well.   you might take a look at the shims on the idler where it sits on the track frame.  Likely they have rusted and expanded and that's why the idler wont move, but a little usage will probably work it loose.


Thank you Cal. My thanks to the forum for responding back so timely and with advise and great commentary. I love this forum. Hope to be able to contribute whenever I can as well to 'give back".
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CAL(KS) View Drop Down
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Joined: 18 Sep 2009
Location: Chapman, KS
Points: 3786 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CAL(KS) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Oct 2017 at 8:23am
I hope you decide a 16DC is too big, and youd like me to have it. LOL

Edited by CAL(KS) - 24 Oct 2017 at 8:24am
Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20

Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15
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jerbob View Drop Down
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Joined: 07 Aug 2017
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Points: 961 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jerbob Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Oct 2017 at 9:12am
Hahahah you are generous to a fault Cal. Thank you for your offer. Big is beautiful baby!
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jerbob View Drop Down
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Joined: 07 Aug 2017
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Points: 961 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jerbob Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Dec 2017 at 6:42am
Been a few weeks since this post but forgot to ask this question. On the piston shown in the pics, the grooves on the piston,, are they for O rings to ack as secondary seals?

Would make sense. No parts manual shows that so I wanted to ask.
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