This site is not affiliated with AGCO Inc., Duluth GA., Allis-Chalmers Co., Milwaukee, WI., or any surviving or related corporate entity. All trademarks remain the property of their respective owners. All information presented herein should be considered the result of an un-moderated public forum with no responsibility for its accuracy or usability assumed by the users and sponsors of this site or any corporate entity.
The Forum Parts and Services Unofficial Allis Store Tractor Shows Serial Numbers History
Forum Home Forum Home > Allis Chalmers > Farm Equipment
  New Posts New Posts
  FAQ FAQ  Forum Search   Events   Register Register  Login Login


226 block and crank

 Post Reply Post Reply
Author
Message
nyacdon View Drop Down
Bronze Level
Bronze Level
Avatar

Joined: 21 Dec 2011
Location: ogdensburg,ny
Points: 24
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nyacdon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: 226 block and crank
    Posted: 26 Jul 2012 at 10:13am
how much stroke will work in a wd45 and d17 block without grinding? also is there any difference in a 226 leroi clearance either more or less with the 8 inch rods--we have three of these off fox choppers.what can you tell me?
Back to Top
Sponsored Links


Back to Top
wi50 View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level


Joined: 24 Sep 2010
Location: weegieland
Points: 1010
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wi50 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Jul 2012 at 10:30am
That will be dependent on the rod used and the crankpin diameter.  But if you're useing stock rods you'll run out of room sooner than canted cap rods with a smaller journal.
 
Also on canted cap rods, there's usually plenty of material to remove.
 
So it's a bit of an open ended question, but if you have stock rods, by 5.25 stroke things may take a little grinding, just guessing.  The Leroi rod may be a little advantage here.
 
If you're welding the crank anyway, use a different rod.  I use some Farmall H and 350 rods time to time and they fit pretty well, and are much stronger than the Allis rods.  Some guys use Buda rods but they bend pretty easy, and are not that strong to start with.  Fine in lower hp applications.  I'll try and narrow rods and berrings also to help keep things stronger.  I used the Farmall rods out to 5.75" stroke in the D-17 block and it gets tight, and takes a lot of cutting.  I've heard of a few guys going to 6" with them, but they also say they'll never do it again.
 
I've seen some differences in the WD-45 blocks, some have a little divit cast under the distributer, which is where things will hit.  I just did one with a 5.375 stroke and the Farmall rods and only had to relieve this a little bit to clear.
 
But some guys go out to 6.25 stroke with lots of clearance and custom rods, small crankpins, etc.  Just depends on how hard someone wants to work, what someone wants to do, and how much you wish to spend.
 
"see what happens when you have no practical experience doing something...... you end up playing with calculators and looking stupid on the internet"
Back to Top
KGood View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level
Avatar

Joined: 17 Nov 2009
Location: Logansport,IN
Points: 955
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KGood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Jul 2012 at 10:59am
We went 6.125 stroke on D17 engine. Rod caps are 4 bolt and slanted. I can't remember the journal size right off. We are on the second crank because of rear main breaking so we girdled the mains and have just never put it together yet. Put a turbo diesel in the 17 so not worried about it.
Back to Top
farmer_rob View Drop Down
Silver Level
Silver Level
Avatar

Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: N.Lancaster ont
Points: 361
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farmer_rob Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Jul 2012 at 4:43pm
so doing the math that would work out to 308 cubes an increase of 82. just doing that alone what would the troque and hp be??
if farming was easy everybody would be doing it
Back to Top
mlpankey View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level


Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Vols country
Points: 4580
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mlpankey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Jul 2012 at 4:50pm
Dont know a 5 3/4 stroke with 1 3/4 journal takes alot of grinding and oil pan rail alteration.i dont recomend anything less than 1.88 rod journal .a 4.125 by 6 320 cubes will.take 14.1 compression with flat tops on 110 octane and make great low end torque

Edited by mlpankey - 26 Jul 2012 at 4:57pm
Back to Top
Rod B View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level


Joined: 25 Jul 2011
Location: Peoria
Points: 415
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rod B Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Jul 2012 at 5:10pm
Originally posted by mlpankey mlpankey wrote:

Dont know a 5 3/4 stroke with 1 3/4 journal takes alot of grinding and oil pan rail alteration.i dont recomend anything less than 1.88 rod journal .a 4.125 by 6 320 cubes will.take 14.1 compression with flat tops on 110 octane and make great low end torque


That's cause you used a straight cap farmall c rod. Broke the crank didn't it. Fixed it with a new crank and broke it again.

It pays to keep a good rod ratio, strong rods and take advice from people who know.
Back to Top
mlpankey View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level


Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Vols country
Points: 4580
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mlpankey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Jul 2012 at 6:11pm
Only broke one crank it was a 1 3/4 after 5 years of pulling. Rod ratio had nothing to do with the crank twisting into behind the number 4 rod. Stress on crank flange from power did.thats why i tell the truth so i give good advice unlike you who hasnt ever gave truthfull numbers or advice on this site.the broke crank brought home trophies and unloaded itself here before totally dropping flywheel at a angle into starter snout.

Edited by mlpankey - 26 Jul 2012 at 6:16pm
Back to Top
mlpankey View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level


Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Vols country
Points: 4580
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mlpankey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Jul 2012 at 7:49pm
Back to Top
KGood View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level
Avatar

Joined: 17 Nov 2009
Location: Logansport,IN
Points: 955
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KGood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jul 2012 at 6:50am
I should of mentioned that we run 4.5 inch pistons the rods are hand made everything balanced but had to have a deck plate. Wich is against the rules of our tugger class but nobody noticed. also had to grind parts of cam so rod caps cleared and had to customize oilpan like Pankey mentioned. Ran 2400 RPM's. We ran almost 2 seasons before a rod bearing started knocking and noticed pitting were they built up the crank. Then we put total seal rings then started breaking rear main cap and all down hill from there. I got tired of tearing it apart wasn't to much fun in it anymore. We have a WD running about 283ci and I've never had to tear it down.
Back to Top
 Post Reply Post Reply
  Share Topic   

Forum Jump Forum Permissions View Drop Down

Forum Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 11.10
Copyright ©2001-2017 Web Wiz Ltd.

This page was generated in 0.059 seconds.


Help Support the
Unofficial Allis Forum