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D17/19 Rebuilt Fender R.Side |
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Gary(OR)
Bronze Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Oregon Points: 177 |
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Posted: 18 Jul 2020 at 9:10pm |
An original, right side D19 fender, should work for D17 as well. All rot has been cutout and new metal butt welded in place. All finish work has been completed and is ready for color (Orange)! Asking $250 plus shipping Edit; Having a problem with photos. Send a PM and I can e-mail them. Okay, here's a few photos.... After metal fab/ welding After block sanding, wet After final application of surfacer. Ready for color Here's a link to some other AC bodywork...https://www.flickr.com/photos/134390019@N07/ Edited by Gary(OR) - 19 Jul 2020 at 2:00am |
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ACinSC
Orange Level Joined: 16 Dec 2015 Location: South Carolina Points: 2763 |
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Very nice ! I recently pulled my D 15 fenders and knocked the rust off . Painted them with a rattle can . They look better but nothing like yours . Good job !
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Gary(OR)
Bronze Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Oregon Points: 177 |
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Good idea to remove the fenders periodically if it's a working tractor. D series are some of the best looking tractors of all, imo, but fender mounting was a poor design. Really needs a seal or gasket on the top side to keep dirt and moisture out.
Anyway, the fender appears to be sold. Thanks
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Tracy Martin TN
Orange Level Access Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Gallatin,TN Points: 10624 |
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Fantastic looking work! Tracy
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No greater gift than healthy grandkids!
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jrsinn83
Bronze Level Joined: 04 Nov 2010 Location: Paxton Points: 87 |
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Hey Gary my email is jrsinn83@gmail.com...I live in Illinois what would it cost to ship it out to you? Really nice work!
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Gary(OR)
Bronze Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Oregon Points: 177 |
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This fender was sold last summer. If you have a core, send me some photos and I can give you estimate on rebuilding, including return shipping. I'm presently working on 2 pairs of D series fenders, so there's a short waiting list.
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Lonn
Orange Level Joined: 16 Sep 2009 Location: Назарово,Russia Points: 29781 |
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Wow! I did a bit of this on a couple WD fenders once but nothing like your awesome work. How did you get the 7000 hood dents and wrinkles out?
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Gary(OR)
Bronze Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Oregon Points: 177 |
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That was an 8550 hood if I remember correctly. I dunno, are they the same a 7000 ? Nothing special, just hammer, dolly and metal shrinking techniques involved. I admit I was a bit intimidated at first, but being it was a relatively flat panel (when new), it went back into shape fairly easy. Just takes a lotta time.
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jrsinn83
Bronze Level Joined: 04 Nov 2010 Location: Paxton Points: 87 |
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No problem...when I run back home sometime this week I will send you some. You have an email I can contact you?
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Wes (VA)
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Elkton, VA Points: 510 |
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Beautiful work!! On the Grille, did you cut it into 2 pieces then weld it back together?
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Gary(OR)
Bronze Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Oregon Points: 177 |
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PM Sent
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Gary(OR)
Bronze Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Oregon Points: 177 |
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Yep, I've did a few, but the last one I did cut open and weld back together. You can imagine how much easier it is to straighten out that way and saves a bunch of time as well. Obviously the extent of the damage will dictate the best course of repair...
Edited by Gary(OR) - 05 Jan 2021 at 4:59pm |
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Wes (VA)
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Elkton, VA Points: 510 |
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Im sure that is easier! I hadnt thought of that before. I've got one that the one side is creased so bad it kinda looks like pac man.
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Gary(OR)
Bronze Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Oregon Points: 177 |
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Sounds challenging (to say the least)...If you'd like to send a photo or 2, I'd be happy to offer some thoughts.
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Wes (VA)
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Elkton, VA Points: 510 |
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RCBREWER
Bronze Level Joined: 26 Dec 2018 Location: VIRGINIA Points: 9 |
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Wondering if you can cut and replace fenders for d10 and d15 like you posted on the d19 fender? what would the cost be per fender?
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Gary(OR)
Bronze Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Oregon Points: 177 |
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Well that's worse than any I've worked on. I'd try to get it as square as possible before cutting. Not sure if it would fit in a press. I have a tire/rim breaker I made that bolts onto a 6x6 in a pole building. A long pipe hinges onto the fixture so I can get lots of leverage. I'm pretty sure I could use it to exert some serious force pressing pac mans mouth into the floor! A little side pulling (top & bottom of grille) at the same time with come-a-longs would help. Also before cutting, I'd try to get the face of the grille (the rounded edge) to lay flat on the floor. A piece of pipe the same or slightly smaller diameter as the rounded edge with a handle welded to it to use with a BFH. Hope that makes sense...
Edited by Gary(OR) - 08 Jan 2021 at 3:37am |
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Gary(OR)
Bronze Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Oregon Points: 177 |
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Yes, I'm finishing up a pair for a D10 Series III right now and have some for a D15 to do next. Let me get back to you when I'd be ready and a estimate. I feel I'll need to raise my rates as it includes return shipping and was notified by FedEx that their fees will increase this month. I'll soon find out how much! Materials always seem to be increasing as well.
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Wes (VA)
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Elkton, VA Points: 510 |
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Thanks for the advice. I'll see what I can do. The key to any "dent" is knowing where the impact was that started it. At least thats what "the key to metal bumping" book says.
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