Late 200 Power Director

ok, I was able to get over and save this poor tractor, sn 4758, so cost reduced 200. I am thinking the PD issue is a hyd issue, not so much a PD clutch issue, yet. It acts as it's just doing the usual creep in N, L or H. It will move under it's own power, but stops easily with the brakes, and pto keeps going. It's a 2 speed mechanical pto. I stuck a gauge in one of the 2 small ports on the PD valve, and it showed 0 psi, no matter lever position.  I now have a pressure gauge on the tee ahead of brake pedals. Start it and run about 1600 rpm it has 150 psi, no matter the lever position also. The spool moves in and out, but you can feel a spring resistance at each end of travel. At no point does the gauge show the 60 psi neutral spec. Parts books shows the 4001 sn and up having a revised pd valve. Is this a common problem? This tractor did get laid over on it's side, so I suspected linkage issues. Thanks for any input in advance! One other thing I noticed, is while it's running, it sounds like the hydraulics are buzzing more than should be at the front oil cooler, which is the same circuit as the pd & steering. The cooler is not bolted down to hood though, but it just sounds like something is dead heading and going into relief. 


Edited by injpumpEd - 05 Oct 2022 at 5:10pm

DrAllis wrote: What's the power steering like ??????

Oil leaves the left rear corner of the hyd pump and goes forward to the oil cooler. From the cooler the oil then goes to the orbitrol inlet. Orbitrol outlet port goes to the Power Director valve. The "tee" connection does nothing until the operator cramps the steering wheel hard left or right, which stops oil flow thru the cooler. Oil then comes from the pump thru the tee connection to keep the Power Director alive. I guess I'd start with the priority valve spool making sure it is free and has the orifice in it. Zero pressure at the P.D. valve means oil is free flowing thru it ?? or there's no oil getting there.....

One port is for LWO and the other is HIGH. Cannot be pressure at both simultainiously.

ok, finally got to spend some time on this, and as I suspected, the pd spool was really stuck, i was able to get it out, polish it, clean the bore with a brush and get it moving better, still not perfect. The hyd oil is not the best lol! I kept thinking the spool was stuck and the rod and lever was just moving against the springs, springs not strong enough to overcome the stickiness. So put gauge in each port and get about 150psi, and in low it will pull the engine down, and hi I can stop it and make it slip. Guessing the hi side is worn from it being stuck part way in hi. It creeps pretty bad in N and pulls engine down when stopping with brakes. At least it's usable now lol! Thanks to all that chimed in with ideas. This cost reduced pd valve is it's own animal.

I was wondering about broken plates too, but even in N it still has about 100 psi, so that is definitely enough to make it drag. With the gauge on the tee, at no point could i move pd spool to get pressure down to the 60 psi my IT manual calls for, on the early style valves. Is the late 200 similar? I'd think it should be nearly 0 in neutral no matter the valve. At least it's a usable tractor now lol! It was pretty useless before I free'd up the pd spool. It still is dragging. I may slide it out and take the springs off and replace with solid spacers to get it working better, temporarily. 

Good morning, Ed. Glad to hear of progress being made on your 200. Can't say as though I'm going to be of any help to you, but just going to add this observation; on my one ninety gas, and one ninety XT diesel, the power directors (after they are warmed up) when put in neutral, are almost as good as stepping on the foot clutch in regards to dragging. Neither have much drag at all, but both grab good in high or low. My 200, on the other hand, is much more like you describe your 200; lots of drag in neutral on the PD, and takes a good hold on the brake to make it stay put. Not sure if this is something out of whack, or just an inherent trait of the 200.....???
Darrel

Yes mine is gated.
I have to split mine for a clutch replacement, but after that it'll get used on various things such as feed wagon and snow blower, will neutral on the PD will be used a lot. I had used it prior to my clutch issue, and was able to get by using neutral and holding the brakes, but just don't want to be damaging anything.
Clutch plate must have piled up some of the fiber. My son was using it, he stopped it with the foot clutch just like normal in front of the barn to pick me up
When we got back behind the barn by the chopped hay pile, he stepped on the foot clutch again, and it acted as if he never stepped on the clutch at all. I've looked up into the bell housing and everything, throw forks and such, all seem to be moving properly. Stepping on the clutch, and applying the brakes hard will not stop it. Splitting it to see what's up is my only option, from what I can tell.
Darrel

Ky.Allis wrote: My 200 is the later model with "gated" PD and it works flawless. Had trouble couple yrs. ago with it jerking like h*ll when shifting, but cleaning and light honing of control valve totally fixed it. Dead stop in neutral with very little drag when cold. A few yrs. back the throw out bearing wore through the fingers, and I fed cattle all winter shifting gears with PD in neutral with no issues. I still say the 200 with gated PD control is the easiest shifting manual PD control AC ever had. The short lever with the hand guide make it so easy to shift smooth.

You're describing my XT right down to the letter; hope I can get my 200 to that point. I had the same throw out bearing issue on my xt one time, and still baled hay with it like that for two nights. Not sure what causes the "neutral drag" in my 200, but I haven't used enough yet to get 100 percent feel for it. Hopefully soon.
Darrel