Early 190xt Replacing the Headlights

Napa has proper sealed beams for all your lights - not LEDs. 

Question for you:  Why do you think wires would overheat with LEDs?  LEDs use a much lower amperage and run cooler than conventional sealed beams.  If the wires survived with sealed beams, there is no way they can overheat with LEDs.

My 67 XT had a flasher on the left fender when I got it.  Was it correct and factory installed?  Couldn't tell you.  When I restored the tractor I put a flasher on each fender with the Hobbs style flashers from AGCO.

If you have a rack of lights across the top of the Tractor along with Headlights, LED or not, you should use a relay or two to take the load off the Headlight switch. Could be the Headlight switch is old and has corrosion inside it causing resistance. Resistance makes heat. The thing you should do is see what amperage each lamp is up top, add them together to get a total amperage count. Then pick a relay to handle that circuit and the amperage the lamps draw. If they are incandescent lamps, they can draw some power. You may also need to step up the size of the circuit that feeds the rack of lamps as well. HTH.

Steve@B&B 

I got to thinking about this dash switch overheating issue and while I replaced the stadium lights on the front of cab with 4 individual LED lights and the back of the cab with a light bar and 2 individual lights, does the stadium light circuit run through the light switch circuit on the dash on the 7010?  Since they have their own switches at the top of the cab, they may have nothing to do with headlights down below?  If they do run through the dash switch circuit, then I may be overloading it.  I probably need to look at a wiring diagram unless someone knows for sure here on the forum. 

I may need to start over on this topic since it is off topic for my original 190xt question.

Thanks for looking at that diagram for me. Appreciate that a bunch. 

 I think my Stadium lights are original.  Based upon what you found, the circuit is running through the dash. 

I was cutting hay at nighttime this past summer and running my stadium lights (which are now LEDS) and noticed that the light switch got really hot so I should have known they were running through the switch.    I may have damaged the switch because my flasher lights are working erratically now.  They used to blink then after leaving Stadium lights on they would stop blinking.  Turn off the stadium lights and let things cool down and they would start working again.  Although I noticed they don't work at all now. 

I probably need to separate the stadium lights from the dash switch since I am probably pulling more amps than the incandescents were, even though LEDS are more efficient, those light bars may be a different story. 

I think you are right about the solenoid feeding power from the roatary switch.  I think they ran the stadium lights through the dash to prevent you from turning on the stadium lights unless you had the dash switch in the proper position.  I like using the stadium light switches up at top of cab so I would like to keep those functioning.  If I separate the stadium lights, I will need to put a relay in the circuit I think.  I need to figure out the right size though. 

I will have to take the dash off and see if I have that Solenoid and how best to make this work better.  A dedicated feed would do it and is probably best.  May need a new rotary switch too though.

The reason why that light's candlepower is low is because the system in your Tractor has a big load on it and those lights are not getting 14.2 volts as they should. That's a low voltage lamp if I ever seen one. Again, the heat in the system and the switch is caused by LOAD.  With a couple relays down stream, its takes that load off the circuitry. The wiring as I mentioned before, is to light for the load it needs to carry. All those old Tractor systems are like that. That's why when I build new systems for these Tractors, I up the size of the wire a gauge or so depending on the load that it needs to handle. If that Tractor has a "DN" series Delco Alternator on it, the VR is probably in overload mode. Upgrading to a 3 wire system with an "SI" series Alternator doing the charging chores would take care of everything on board providing it's wired correctly. If it already has an "SI' series Delco Alternator on the Tractor, a good way to compensate for the load used is run the voltage sense circuit parallell with the output circuit of the Alternator and connect them together at a junction block near the Battery. Connect the Battery to that junction block as well. Any load that's put on the system, the voltage sense circuit will signal the Alternator to ramp up and compensate for that load at that junction block. Wiring the Headlight switch to that junction (Battery feed) will keep full power through the switch for all other accessories. Keeps the Battery "full" and keeps 14.2 volts throughout the Tractor without any low voltage, hot switches, dull incandescent bulbs, or circuitry cookin'. Low voltage cooks everything!...  HTH

Steve@B&B