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Bad news on the b please help
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2011dandd View Drop Down
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Joined: 25 Jul 2018
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    Posted: 21 Mar 2019 at 7:51am
Just taken off the valve cover to check gaps.
Found water in there. Obviously this is very bad.
It’s coming from a core plug in the middle of the 3rd and 4th cylinder.
I’m concerned about this it doesn’t look cracked and it’s not frost damaged, if anything it looks porous

Please help if you can shed any light on what’s happened and how I can fix it.

Thanks
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CTuckerNWIL View Drop Down
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Points: 22818 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Mar 2019 at 7:58am
Those plugs rust thru from the bottom up. Remove all of them after draining the water level down a bit, clean the casting with wire wheel or sanding. Add a bit of Permatex gasket maker and tap in a new plug. They are available at any good auto parts store for a couple dollars.
 Top off the coolant level and put the valve cover back on. Should be good to go for another 50 years or so.
 Probably wouldn't hurt to drain a bit out of the oil pan to see if there is any coolant on the bottom. I would drain and flush the oil  good, change the filter and refill with clean oil.


Edited by CTuckerNWIL - 21 Mar 2019 at 8:01am
http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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Brian G. NY View Drop Down
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The core plug looks porous? 
Fairly common for the core plug to rust through and a fairly
straightforward operation to replace it.
The problem is, if it is a significant leak, the water finds its 
way down into the cylinders causing more serious problems.
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Dave(inMA) View Drop Down
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I'm guessing that's a very dead freeze plug. Replace it and any others in there. Drain all the oil since there's some coolant mixed in with it, and coolant does bad things to bearings. Could be bearing damage, but maybe the gods are smiling on you and there isn't. I hope that's the case!

Dave
WC, CA, D14, WD45
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Points: 5636 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gerald J. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Mar 2019 at 9:16am
Shop manual may give some hints:
http://geraldj.networkiowa.com/Trees/Allis-Chalmers-G-B-C-CA-Service.pdf

Gerald J.
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Dick L View Drop Down
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As stated, not a big problem and an easy fix. New oil after the core plugs have been replaced, water topped off and your good to go.
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2011dandd View Drop Down
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Points: 106 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 2011dandd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Mar 2019 at 11:26am
Cheers for the help guys.
Drained off a pint of coolant and removed all the core plugs. Also drained off about two ltts of coolant from the bottom of the oil sump.
Has not benne started whilst this has been the case so hopefully minimal damage.
What are the core plug dimensions? Being UK based I’ll have to go by size as no one will stop I any for a allis b.

Thanks
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Any decent ag dealer should have some imperial freeze plugs if not get them off ebay 
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Alvin M View Drop Down
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Agco # 70203093 1.250 Cup Type
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Take an old plug with you.
Everything is impossible until someone does it! WD45-trip loader 1947 c w/woods belly mower, 1939 B, #3 sickle mower 1944 B, 2 1948 G's. Misc other equipment that my wife calls JUNK!
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Alvin unfortunately Agco part no,S are of no use in the uk but the size will work.
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2011dandd View Drop Down
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So that’s 1 1/4 “
That picture makes it look obvious but my one had no apparent hole or fracture, it was thin and well rusted underneath though.

It had obviously failed though as each time I soaked the water up with a rag it filled again but it literally looked like magic. I know how daft that sounds but just couldn’t see where it had failed.
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Change the oil and filter after you're all done. Set valve clearances while you're in there also.
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Points: 106 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 2011dandd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Mar 2019 at 2:29am
Is it going to be a good idea to drain off as much of the coolant as possible from the oil pan and use an engine flush once the core plugs are replaced?
Or just better of getting that oil out of there as soon as possible. It will be a week before I get a chance to put the new plugs in at least.

Sorry to repeat myself, but we are saying 1” 1/4 plugs correct?
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Dick L View Drop Down
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Best to remove all the oil. However if the oil is not milky and still clean you can remove just the water without any real problems. Water will not mix with the oil unless you beat it together.
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# 70203093: 1-1/4" core plug = 1.13" ID, 1.26" OD, .33" deep (info I found on line) 1.260" is a standard OD for 1-1/4" cup plugs.
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Jim  Thumbs Up
1938 B, 79 Dynamark 11/36 6spd, 95 Weed-Eater 16hp, 2010 Bolens 14hp
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2011dandd View Drop Down
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Lovely
Cheers Jim
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Thanks to all you are doing to keep my favorite alive and well. 
You have outstanding advice from some of the best mechanics I have never met. 
Let us know how it goes.
From across the pond
Good Luck!
Bill Long
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Hey Dan-  when you go looking, see if you can find a marine-type BRASS plug... it'll last longer, and probably easier to find, as yankee sizes are very frequent in marine applications.  You may have Volvo-Penta, Yanmar, Cummins/Perkins, Universal, Graymarine or Crusader suppliers in your area, I'm willing to bet they'd have several in the parts drawers for a quid or two.

northamptonmarine.com  is a marina not far from you, they've got Evinrude outboards... they used SAE frost plugs in everything...Wink


Edited by DaveKamp - 22 Mar 2019 at 8:02pm
Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
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2011dandd View Drop Down
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Cheers Folks
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Dave kemp
Thanks mate, I’m in Northamptonshire UK
Northamptonmarine.com is American
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Originally posted by 2011dandd 2011dandd wrote:

Dave kemp
Thanks mate, I’m in Northamptonshire UK
Northamptonmarine.com is American


Dangit... I hate it when search engines decide to search something other than what I type. (sigh).  To err is human, to really screw things up requires a computer. 

Willy Watt marina, Jones Chandlery in Saint Ives...
mebbie Greg at GB Watersports in Petersborough...

Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
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Update for those that are interested.

Got the core plugs out piece of cake. Got new ones ordered.

Cleaned up the holes of all the rest and crud etc. Cleaned the grease and crime etc etc.

Fitted the new plugs lovely and square
Every single one of the bloody things let by, a very small amount but should have been bone dry.

Removed all of them cleaned up again and keyed up the surface on the engine and NEW plugs, smeared water resistant gasket maker on both surfaces and again fitted new core plugs.
Left for 24hkurs and now holds water, at least without out engine running pressure
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We'll keep our fingers crossed for ya.
1938 B, 79 Dynamark 11/36 6spd, 95 Weed-Eater 16hp, 2010 Bolens 14hp
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Good Deal! That's how you learn.
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2011dandd View Drop Down
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Next is
Running it, checking valve clearance and then checking the timing which I’m definitely going to need help and advice from you guys for.

I have started another thread for the above if anyone fancies pointing me in the right direction. The b timing for this dummie is its title.

Cheers folks
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Hi

I'm looking also the size and parts number for the freeze plug on the cylinder block.
Do you know it?
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That is the oil galley over the lifters behind those core plugs. If you have a need to remove them hit them hard in the center to cave them in some and they will fall out. Take one to NAPA and they can match them for you. They are a common plug NAPA has in stock here in my area.   
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