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ssefick 
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Joined: 09 Feb 2022
Location: South Carolina
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 Topic: 6080 Clutch Cable adjustment
Posted: 08 Jan 2024 at 5:43am |
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Hello All:
I am having a little trouble adjusting my clutch cable on my 6080.
I installed a new cable last year. The clutch doesn't seem to disengage all the way when the machine has been operated for about an hour.
The former owner had a wrench inserted above the cable at the pedal end. It seemed disengage, but I tried to correct this with a new cable install.
I can adjust the fine adjustment nuts again, but I am wondering if I won't run into this problem again.
Newbie here. Any thoughts appreciated.
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Ron(AB)
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Joined: 27 Dec 2009
Location: Alberta
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Posted: 09 Jan 2024 at 12:17am |
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How many hours on the clutch?
Does the engine have the external thrust bearing on the front of the crank?
Is it a loader tractor?
The answers to the above questions will tell u how long it will be before you need to adjust the clutch again.
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405, 7000, 7050, 8050, 8070, L3, 2300 & 2600 disk
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ssefick
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Location: South Carolina
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Posted: 09 Jan 2024 at 6:14am |
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No idea on hours. I bought the tractor from the fellows Grandmother (unfortunately he passed). The tractor had been split and put back together recently, but I don't know what he did in there. I believe he at least replaced the PTO seal (1 reed off nut on PTO stub). I think he replaced the front seal based on what I had to torch to spec. on oil pan and front cover. Valve lash is adjusted. I've been finishing the blind rebuild slowly. He had a new wrench as a spacer at the foot pedal side of the clutch cable as a spacer. The clutch disengaged smoothly with this in place.
Yes, it has the external thrust bearing.
Yes, it has a loader.
All help is much appreciated.
I am running a fence with a shaver post pounder now with the machine, and it seems to be 'hard' to shift into second. If I am not careful - throttle back to 1000rpm, firmly mash the clutch, and confidently pull on the shifter it might 'bump' a little. Once in second all other gears easily shifted into.
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Ron(AB)
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Posted: 09 Jan 2024 at 9:52am |
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The clutch cable and the clutch is the weak spot on those tractors. They do take frequent adjustment and replacement particularly if it is a loader tractor. Move the bottom cable end in a different hole on the clevis to get it better adjusted so all gears shift easy.
Watch the clutch housing if there is any oil dripping out of the weep hole. If there is, its probably time to split the tractor and do the seal(s) and/or clutch again...
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405, 7000, 7050, 8050, 8070, L3, 2300 & 2600 disk
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ssefick
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Posted: 12 Jan 2024 at 5:18am |
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Ok thanks. No oil I've noticed, but I will keep an eye on it.
I'll adjust it then.
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ssefick
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Posted: 14 Jan 2024 at 5:44pm |
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No idea on hours. I bought the tractor from the fellows Grandmother (unfortunately he passed). The tractor had been split and put back together recently, but I don't know what he did in there. I believe he at least replaced the PTO seal (1 reed off nut on PTO stub). I think he replaced the front seal based on what I had to torch to spec. on oil pan and front cover. Valve lash is adjusted. I've been finishing the blind rebuild slowly. He had a new wrench as a spacer at the foot pedal side of the clutch cable as a spacer. The clutch disengaged smoothly with this in place.
Yes, it has the external thrust bearing.
Yes, it has a loader.
All help is much appreciated.
I am running a fence with a shaver post pounder now with the machine, and it seems to be 'hard' to shift into second. If I am not careful - throttle back to 1000rpm, firmly mash the clutch, and confidently pull on the shifter it might 'bump' a little. Once in second all other gears easily shifted into.
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victoryallis
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Posted: 14 Jan 2024 at 8:20pm |
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8030 and 8050MFWD, 7580, 3 6080's, 160, 7060, 175, heirloom D17, Deere 8760
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Lynn Marshall
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Posted: 15 Jan 2024 at 9:39pm |
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The 6080 tractors prior to serial #4000 needed to have 1 1/2 inches of free play travel in the pedal. Tractors later than that used a continually running throw out bearing that didn't have any free play.
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ssefick
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Posted: 16 Jan 2024 at 6:48pm |
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On the crankshaft?
I have not checked it. What is the appropriate way to check this (is the procedure in the service manual)?
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ssefick
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Posted: 16 Jan 2024 at 6:55pm |
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It is a sn less than 4000.
Thank you, Lynn. I have the specs. for the pedal, adjustment, etc. supplied when I replaced the cable about a year ago.
It is like the cable is to long, and doesn't have the adjustment on the clevis pin fitting (sorry don't now the proper name).
I adjusted the distance at the anchor to the end of the cable tube close to 'all the way' out, and it is much better. The man before me had a spacer on the cable at the pedal end.
Is this something I should pursue? Are the cables from AGCO too long (seems like the answer would be no)?
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ssefick
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Posted: 16 Jan 2024 at 7:03pm |
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Are there spacer washers under the bracket assembly pivot?
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Ron(AB)
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Posted: 17 Jan 2024 at 12:26am |
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After many thousand hours on a 6070 (same clutch as yours), I had to cut out the cable hole on the clutch pedal and weld in a new piece of metal with the hole better positioned and round / true again. Also, I installed a new bolt.
Every part wears on the clutch linkage: pedal hole and bolt, cable and cable tube, multi-hole clevis and bolt, etc.
When in doubt, change worn parts to get optimum clutch operation.
Or adapt, improvise and overcome.
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405, 7000, 7050, 8050, 8070, L3, 2300 & 2600 disk
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ssefick
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Posted: 17 Jan 2024 at 5:47am |
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"Or adapt, improvise and overcome."
Yes, sir! Understood, will do.
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