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Got a Hd5g in trade |
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Noah ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 22 May 2024 Location: Colorado Points: 31 |
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Very cool, I am in love with this machine, I hope I can keep it going for awhile. I am going to add a canopy and I really want to add a rear blade and build a grapple bucket for it.
Edited by Noah - 03 Jul 2024 at 6:30pm |
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Noah ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 22 May 2024 Location: Colorado Points: 31 |
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Update on the Hd5,
After resurfacing track chain and adjusting all the extra slack out of tracks, I changed all fluids and got everything greased up. I was pretty happy with the overall condition of old fluids except transmission. It was definitely low on fluid, brown in color and even after flushing, I did get some brass or copper mettalic flakes in the drained fluid. I built a removable tooth bar for my bucket and I was ready to start work once the contract on my property closed. Everything was looking good and then I noticed that one of the front rollers has a broken lip. I believe that the previous owner ran the tracks loose for a while and the snaking caused the wearing of the inner track link, backside of sprocket and broke the roller lip. Obviously I will have to run it either way, but anyone have advice on best way to approach this. I have a lead on a few parts machines but they are at least 10hr one way trips. I intend to keep this machine going whatever it takes but truck wheels/rollers dont look easy to replace. Thanks for any help. *I am posting this from phone and I Shrunk the photo to 122kb or 30% of original. Still appears large on my screen. Let me know.. ![]() |
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Ray54 ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 22 Nov 2009 Location: Paso Robles, Ca Points: 4454 |
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Picture looks good on my computer screen.
The tracks on my bare farm tractor HD 5B are way past wore out. But have never given trouble wanting to come off. But I found a roller in very much the same condition as the one pictured. Well only the one side was gone, other was still Ok. I welded something around it. It has been years but not many hours. Not sure but I think I used rebar as it was easy weld on then keep hammering and weld a bit more.Still there last time I looked.
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Noah ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 22 May 2024 Location: Colorado Points: 31 |
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Ray, thank you for the encouraging post. How involved is removing one of the truck wheels to weld it out? Mine is the same situation, outer lip/flanges are all good, just broke the inner flange/lip off roller.seems to spin smoothly and has good oil/grease flowing out when I remove the plug. Ray, I took your advice and made a tooth bar, I will post the results when I get to test it, hopefully this weekend.
Edited by Noah - 04 Jul 2024 at 2:26pm |
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Ray54 ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 22 Nov 2009 Location: Paso Robles, Ca Points: 4454 |
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Some rollers were made with only outer flanges. On many crawlers the first roller in front of the sprocket uses a single flange. That way sprocket teeth don't interfere with roller inner flanges. Then a doubles, or some alternate, single and double.
I am not remembering taking the roller out to weld,
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Fafarms ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 23 Aug 2024 Location: Canada Points: 4 |
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Plus with the cost of new equipment....
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Fafarms ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 23 Aug 2024 Location: Canada Points: 4 |
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Take a link out? Looks like theres enough slack there. That seems the simple solution.
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Fafarms ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 23 Aug 2024 Location: Canada Points: 4 |
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You should YouTube hd5 tractor pulls pretty rad
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DiyDave ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Gambrills, MD Points: 51235 |
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Never take a link out, unless you are going to trash the whole U/C. It makes the links ride higher on the drive sprocket, accelerating wear...
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Source: Babylon Bee. Sponsored by BRAWNDO, its got what you need!
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