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almost had the forty-five running! !!!

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darrel in ND View Drop Down
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    Posted: 12 Oct 2016 at 9:59am
For this story, we'll back up to 2011 to get started, because that's when I bought this motor grader. I bought from a guy about 150 miles from home. He had bought it from a neighboring city. Story was that the city had quit using it a few years prior, because the blower had locked up, so all it did was roll smoke, and had no power. Sat in the city yard long enough for young (or maybe old) vandals to knock every window out of the cab. Then this fella bought it with the intention of turning it into a pull type grader. After he got it home, he decided he didn't have the heart to cut it apart, and decided he should sell it to someone who would resurrect it, and I assume, make a handsome profit off it. That's where I came into the picture. I bought it, some time in the summer of 2011.
    I had went down and looked at it one night, and decided a couple days later to take it, so I sent him a check for it. He agreed to pull the blower off of it for me, and got it to Bismarck for me where I picked it up (way closer to home), and I had a buddy rebuild it. Time went by, then in the fall of 2012, me and this buddy loaded up the now rebuilt blower, and headed down to get the machine home. Had the semi and trailer. Also had batteries, and all of the fixings for an oil change. We got the blower put back on, oil changed, and batteries installed. Ready to fire it up, and load er on the trailer. ...but all we could get is a clunk out of the starter. Thought pull starting it would work. All we could do with that was slide the tires. Came to the conclusion that the engine had seized up from sitting, even though the exhaust had been covered. So we pushed it onto the trailer, I got it home and pulled it off the trailer, and there it sat until a couple days ago.
    An old time mechanic friend of mine had been telling me for a few years (guess I read it here on the forum, too), that pulling the starter, and prying on a flywheel tooth is a good option for freeing up a stuck engine. My son has been bugging me for a few years now, that we should try that on the grader, and I kind of drug my feet on it. I was gone the other day for a few hours, and when I got home, my son had the starter off of it, and didn't ask, but TOLD me that we were going to try to free up the engine with a pry bar. So we did. The engine rolled over, as if it never had been locked up! Looking back now, I don't think it ever was.
    Having forgotten about it being 24 volts, we decided to hook a jumper from the pickup to the starter (starter still off machine) to see if the starter even worked. We could make the starter spin, but the drive wouldn't pop out. We decided to take the starter over to the electric shop the next day, because the boy was going that way anyhow. Well, sometime in the night, it dawns on me that this is a 24 volt starter, and we were only testing it with 12 volts. I told the boy to leave the starter at home, and I was sure that when we would put 24 volts to it, it would work.
    It still didn't work even with 24 volts, so it still has to go to the shop. Meanwhile, yesterday we decided to try pull starting it, but only after making sure we knew where hi gear was. We only had partial success. Twice, we got it to turn over enough to smoke, but then it would pop out of gear before it would start. And with a couple gears being out, the other gears we tried would do nothing but slide the tires. So hopefully, when the starter gets fixed, I'll have some good news to report. I am very optimistic about it now. Thanks for listening! Darrel
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jorstad brothers View Drop Down
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Joined: 10 Jun 2010
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jorstad brothers Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Oct 2016 at 11:06am
dang i have a good 24 volt starter i took off a pete you could have, if you need. 
remember plunder than burn
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Ian Beale View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ian Beale Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Oct 2016 at 4:26pm
Darrel

Slight correction on the gears.  1st is left and back then centre to right then forward for 2nd and back for 3rd.

The original starter has a Dyer drive to the pinion - you might need a vintage auto electrician.  IIRC they don't retract the pinion with the solenoid but need the engine to fire to spin it out.

A later M40 or 42 will interchange.

If your pump is worn starting might be problematical.

A "don't ask me why" on ours.  If you give it a squirt of ether BEFORE you start the engine turning it will usually not start with any amount.  If you give the engine a few turns before the squirt it usually will and on only a little squirt.

We set the injectors up on a tester to book pressures and it needed ether cold or hot. 
Diesel tech son has found that by fractionally backing the pressures off that it now only needs the squirt cold.  The score card of adjustments is scratched on the air cleaner.

When you get to the gearbox check for wear on the selector forks.  Ours has a 2nd gear problem from this.  The dog clutch for second (and presumably the rest)  have every second spline long - to do with selection?  Our fork wore till it was only engaging on these long splines and started to pop out.  The fork is only clamped to the selector rod.  So I found out that I could adjust it to get full 2nd engagement before the main lever ran out of travel space where it hit the frame - which hasn't entirely fixed things as yet.   That gives me space to get full 3rd engagement by forcing past the detent ball back towards the seat - held with a handy wire so far.

It looks like the fork might come out through the gearbox side plate without a major gearbox job but I haven't bitten that as yet.

Best of luck with it.
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DiyDave View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DiyDave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Oct 2016 at 7:26pm
Likely the solenoid is fried from chronic low voltage.  If it has been sitting for a long period, batteries are bad, people have tried the same thing as you did, the solenoid connections get soft, and the spark is spattery, and id buggers up the contact points, inside, till they just don't make good contact...
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Ian Beale View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ian Beale Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Oct 2016 at 5:20am
Dave

Early ones didn't have a solenoid.  The later ones did.  Ours came with a solenoid that had been set up with a hand lever to make it contact.  I took it apart and resoldered the connections and it now works as it should.
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shameless (ne) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shameless (ne) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Oct 2016 at 4:58am
and still.....no pics! PffffT!
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darrel in ND View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote darrel in ND Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Oct 2016 at 8:28am
Originally posted by shameless (ne) shameless (ne) wrote:

and still.....no pics! PffffT!


some of us ain't retired, and still gots to get the real work done before we can mess around with the stuff that "doesn't pay the bills." Maybe when you was road tripping, you could have just came on up here and lent me a hand. Darrel
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ian Beale Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Oct 2016 at 4:06pm
Darrel

I thought of starting ours this weekend to produce some sympathetic vibes - didn't happen for reasons similar to those you outline
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darrel in ND View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote darrel in ND Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Oct 2016 at 6:33pm
worked on it some more today. Got the starter back in. Put two 12 volt batteries in it , hooked up in series to get 24 volts. Cranked er over; initially with limited success. Then after some "figuring things out", and a little fuel line bleeding, we had er smoking and wanting to start, but then the batteries were getting too weak to do much any more. And with it being a 24 volt ordeal, jump starting is not an option, so we pulled the batteries back out, and got em charging again . I know that four big six volt batteries hooked in a series would be the way to go, but I want to be a little more sure of this machines functionality before I shell out that kind of money. I'll see what tomorrow brings, and report any progress. Darrel
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Orange Blood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Oct 2016 at 7:16pm
Batteries in series will not give you more amps all things being equal.

Series changes voltage, parallel changes amps.  four 12 volt batteries of good quality, and high cranking amps tied two in series, and then both pairs, wired in parallel will give you your best cranking power.  

All of this current won't do a hill of beans worth of work, if your cables and connections aren't clean tight, and of sufficient size.  The other factor is the starter, adding tons of amps to a starter that will only pull "X" number of amps means you are only wasting money on batteries.  I don't think you would reach that point with two quality group 31 type batteries tied in series, of say around a 1000 CCA  you can always start with two, and add in another parallel set later.  Or if you are sure, we ran two group 8D batteries on our tub grinder that saw most of it's use in the winter, it has the 11000 series engine, very similar to what your grader does.  We never had a functioning alternator on the machine, just put the battery charger on it once a week, and keep them topped off.
Still in use:
HD7 WC C CA WD 2-WD45 WD45LP WD45D D14 3-D17 D17LP 2-D19D D19LP 190XTD 190XTLP 720 D21 220 7020 7030 7040 7045 3-7060
Projects: 3-U UC 2-G 2-B 2-C CA 7-WC RC WDLP WF D14 D21 210 7045 N7
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shameless (ne) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Oct 2016 at 7:55am
whew....watch out ya'll....he's gittin grumpy! i'll gits up there someday and you better have the coffee on in the shop!
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darrel in ND View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote darrel in ND Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Oct 2016 at 7:59am
Originally posted by shameless (ne) shameless (ne) wrote:

whew....watch out ya'll....he's gittin grumpy! i'll gits up there someday and you better have the coffee on in the shop!


I ain't grumpy!!!!!! If I get grumpy, I'll let ya know that I'm grumpy! You got that!!!!
LOL, Darrel
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shameless (ne) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shameless (ne) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Oct 2016 at 6:53pm
loud and clear! lol....ya old.....
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darrel in ND View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote darrel in ND Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Oct 2016 at 8:19pm
Good, cause I'd a hated to have to drive all that ways down to your house and tell ya in person. Darrel
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ian Beale Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Oct 2016 at 9:44pm
Shameless

There are days when AC 45's do this to you!  From experience.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ian Beale Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Oct 2016 at 12:56am
Darrel

I sent those favourable vibes your way this afternoon.  Along with some from the FA 10 as it is about dry enough to fix our creek crossing damaged in the last flood.

On the fuel controls - our shut-off is a vertical shaft on the right of the seat which you push down to kill.  And make sure you pull back up when it stops!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shameless (ne) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Oct 2016 at 2:20am
lol...thanks Ian....i'll try to remember that! 
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