Unbeleivable Calcium Chloride

A past owner did the unthinkable, calcium chloride loaded tire with out a tube, the rims are full of pin holes and constantly weep.

I'm going to remove the rims from the tractor, Simplicity 9020 then cut the shabby tires from the rims. Then remove the center piece with the bolt holes ans see it I can find a suitable donor rim to weld that center piece into.

So far I found a van with 225/R16's on it with an eight hole center. Brought a 16.5 home to see how difficult it's going to be to remove that center which is riveted in place.

A note on safety never put a 16" tire onto a 16.5 rim.

acd17toy wrote:   Rustydallor,  do you mean never put a 16.5 tire on a 16" rim. New a guy who did that once to often  tire blew off of rim hit him in the head.

Thanks for the correction, yes that is what I meant.

Guy got hit in the head lucky his wife didn't have to invoke the terms of his life insurance policy.

After messing with that rim I brought home this afternoon probably going to break down and purchase new rims from our local AG dealer.

Why not look at a adapter plate to bolt to your axle end and then drilled for the bolt pattern of the new rim you want to use - so if your bolt pattern on tractor is say 6 bolt - drill flat plate to fit - then overlay your 8 bolt and drill and put wheel studs into it . 
 No need to cut out center of rim 

jaybmiller wrote: hmm.. re:... A past owner did the unthinkable, calcium chloride loaded tire with out a tube, the rims are full of pin holes and constantly weep. ... I've been thnking about this and IF the rims had GREAT powder coat, I suspect they could last a very, very long time before the salt water did the bad deed. If you think that rim is bad, just come on up here to Ontaio and look at ANY car 5 years or older that's been on ANY road in the Winter !! They ALL rot due to the 1000s and 1000s of TONS of road salt( CaCL) the guv puts on for 'safety'. It also, imagine this) destroys bridges and anything else with rebar in it...go figure....snow, salt, porus concrete......idiots..... Have to ask..did the 'loaded' tires weigh MORE than having used wheel weights ? Jay

Manitoba uses potash on winter roads, still very corrosive.

Not sure on the wheel weights as I don't have any and would prefer the ballast inside the tire. I suppose you could add both weights and ballast to improve traction.

My tires are loaded with chains.

Here's the breakdown on liquid ballasts weights per gallon.

Windshield Washer fluid, 9.9 lbs
Calcium Chloride 11.03
Rim Guard 10.7

My tractor uses a 8 - 16 tire, according to the ballast chart a 7:50 / 16 tire holds 11 gallons of ballast which adds 107 lbs of wheel weight.

Gary Burnett wrote: Regular 6 bolt rims off the front of a tractor will fit or rims off a Case GT,Massey 1855, Sear FF series etc.

Thanks Gary, the rims I need can be purchased locally, suggested retail is $74.00 each. Somewhere on the mess of papers on my desk have the part number written down.

Gary Burnett wrote: Regular 6 bolt rims off the front of a tractor will fit or rims off a Case GT,Massey 1855, Sear FF series etc.

Gary the problem is finding a rim with the proper offset, the Simplicity 9020 rear rims are deep dished to accept wheel weights within the inside circumference of the rim.

Both tires. calcium removed, one tire had a full load while the other only had about 3.5 gallons, so full of iron oxide it could pass as paint.

jaybmiller wrote: Ok, I just had either the greatest idea or the dumbest.... How about steel wheel weights that go INSIDE ? Yeah, maybe crazy, but I'm thinking say 3 pieces of say 2" thick steel that bolt or get welded to each other, forming a solid 'donut' of steel tightly fastened to the center of the rim. If someone posts the rim dimensions( center diameter, width,etc.) I can calculate what the 'donut' would weigh. Ballpark for steel is 40# per 1" thick of square foot. Fabrication is easy(have buddy with big press) or use say 1" bar,cut several sections,weld to form a pie piece,install is as well...put thick rubber on rim,bolt sections together. Reinstalling the tire gets to be a workout though...rim is now 100+ pounds heavier ! I had thought about cast iron, but local foundry is gone. Too bad as they COULD easily make them.... Gee, wonder if there's a market for these... Jay

In another life I set up a small home foundry to cast aluminum, purchased fishing weight SCUBA weight molds from ebay to use as my patterns. This is when I discovered I was not the first kid on the block to come up with the idea as some of the molds I had purchased had obvious signs of being cast from a home foundry.

My source of aluminum, automotive cylinder heads, automatic transmission cases and aluminum wheel rims all of which are high grades of aluminum. I would cut these into smaller sizes that would fit into my silicon carbide crucible for melting.

I made up my own flasks, and used pretro bond which is an oil bonded sand that is so fine you could pick up and cast a finger print. It's great for picking up fine detail without leaving a grainy surfaces on the finished product.

In addition Petro bond is much safer to use over green sand which is a mixture of silica and clays bonded with water. You have to be very critical on how much moisture is in the green sand or you can have an explosion when the molten metal come into contact. With green sand you need to employ a series of vent holes which also adds to more clean up on the finished product.

Petro Bond is easy to use and much safer for the beginner.

From that home foundry I made enough money to purchase a 14" X 40" metal lathe and a whole slew of other shop equipment.

The furnace was home made, fired with propane. You could use an old oil burner from a discarded oil furnace for aluminum. After that first heat and the furnace lining at operating temperature, a 20 pound melt every 10 minutes, you'll have to hustle tamping  and removing patterns for the next pour.

I enjoyed metal casting so much that I purchase a 15 KVA induction furnace that is capable of melting most metals known to man.  Sadly I've only used the Induction furnace a couple of times to melt some copper and brass.

I need to rig up a water recirculation and cooler system at this new property were on as the well water is full of calcium.

Jay what your suggesting is certainly doable even from a home built foundry, to melt steel and cast iron you would need either an much larger three phase powered Induction furnace or build a Cupola furnace.

I would use green sand, purchase a moisture meter to control the water content of your sand.

For something like wheel weights you could leave valves and springs in your scrap cylinder heads, brake drums leave the steel centers in and bearing races in brake rotors.

Just make sure no aluminum makes its way into the Cupola, the aluminum turns to clinkers which will clog the port where the molten metals exits the furnace.

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Toscani NE SD wrote: why not just get new rims, I did for mine, nothing special

I'm retired, repairing my own keeps me sober.

The rim from the 3/4 ton Van at the landfill site was perfect.

Got to try out the new 85 amp Hypertherm plasma at the farm that came in this afternoon, nice machine. After cutting the piece off the Van rim it did not need any cleanup work at all.

Welded that piece onto the Simplicity rim using he shops Mig, the completed job after cleaning up a few high spots looks good.

I used my stick welder to weld the outside perimeter which goes to the inside of the tractor, so I did not spend anytime grinding those welds.

I've ordered new tubes that are called Air / Water these are made from heavier material and the valve stems have a threaded nut that hold them secure.

Yea I'm going to load em up with calcium chloride again.






Edited by rustydollar - 05 Sep 2017 at 6:12pm

Looks like you 'dun good' !!!  Glad it all worked out for you...I know , those 'simple' jobs seem to drag on and on..sigh....

Jay