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opinions on this hitch

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a jossund View Drop Down
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Joined: 01 Jan 2011
Location: perley mn
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    Posted: 08 Feb 2016 at 10:23am
I wanted an adjustable hitch with a reese type receiver for my wd pulling tractor. I cam up with this, its a little hard to see in this picture but its two pieces of 3/8" thick 4x8" angle iron bolted to the rear housing with grade 8 bolts, and a rese receiver tube mounted in the middle via a grade 8 1" bolt with a fair amount of reinforcement to keep it straight. The clevis receiver is just to get an idea on the height at 20", I have a solid shank with a 3.75 opening ring that I plan to use for pulling. Our rules don't mention anything about the top of the adjusters being below the axle or hub but after doing some research I found that's in the NATPA rules and it makes good sense if the hitch ever broke. The top links are supported by those triangular braces made of 3/8" flat iron, my plan is to cut 4 triangular piece of 3/8 steel and weld in to box in the supports and add strength. While the top of the adjusters are about lever with the axle they are attached to the tractor below the axle but above the hubs. Any ideas are appreciated.     
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Charlie175 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Charlie175 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Feb 2016 at 10:55am
Looks OK
I need to find a turn adjuster that is less than 13" hole to hole, say 9" to 12" adjustment. I looked and haven't run across any so far. Any ideas?
Charlie

'48 B, '51 CA, '56 WD45 '61 D17, '63 D12, '65 D10 , '68 One-Ninety XTD
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PaulB View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PaulB Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Feb 2016 at 10:55am
First off let me say that you look to be a good craftsman. I don't want to wet down you enthusiasm, but I don't like to see adjustment turnbuckles going up. Back in the day when things were starting to get powerful, I witnessed a lot of drawbars breaking, some had spectacular outcomes when the drawbar broke and the adjusters held, thus transferring the pull point to above the axle in an instant. No matter what you do it is a wise idea to have a "shear pin" type drawbar that the pin would shear allowing the drawbar to just slide out without catching on anything. I have seen a number that use a factory type Drawbar bail and the drawbar itself rests on the bail with a form of quick adjustability.  If you send me your email I could send a picture of what I/ve done directly to you. 
If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY
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DrAllis View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Feb 2016 at 11:19am
Top of the adjusters need to be no higher than the center of the rear wheel (axle)...looks unsafe to me as it is. "Axle" as you define it isn't the axle tube on an A-C. "Axle" is the center of the rear wheel. Sorry.
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Ronnie View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ronnie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Feb 2016 at 11:28am
I see u mounted the seat in the center is it easier to use the controls.
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2wise4agm View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 2wise4agm Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Feb 2016 at 11:55am
I would lose the clevis too. Make a piece with a 3.5 by 3 inch hole in it that the hook can drop straight down in. Around here that setup would be very unfavorable with sled operators. And any attachment point up that high would be very unfavorable with tech officials.
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a jossund View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote a jossund Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Feb 2016 at 1:13pm
Thanks for the comments guys, ill be sure to get those adjusters moved so there where they need to be. I moved the seat to the middle so it was easier to reach the shifter I added for the automatic transmission, this tractor has a 400 sbc with a th350.
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CAL(KS) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CAL(KS) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Feb 2016 at 1:43pm
you may not need to move your adjuster then cause obviously you arnt pulling Natpa rules.   check your local rules 
Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20

Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15
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a jossund View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote a jossund Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Feb 2016 at 3:10pm
I would just like to be in compliance that way if I was to ever go to a NATPA pull or if one of our local organizations adopted those rules I would be in compliance. I also wanted to get peoples opinions from a safety standpoint
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Larry(OH) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Larry(OH) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Feb 2016 at 3:18pm
That clevis doesnt look to have a near big enough hole in it....at least for around here. The hooks are getting huge and 3 1/2" x 4" is minimun anymore. Keep the adjusters down. If your running a V-8, I think even more important. You could end up over backwards in no time
'40 WC puller,'50 WD puller,'50 M puller '65 770 Ollie

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I can explain it to you, BUT I cannot understand it for you!!
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