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Bill_MN 
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Sioux Falls, SD
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 Topic: fuse in wiring system
Posted: 01 Jul 2019 at 6:49pm |
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I rewired the dash pod and put a couple new switches in my WD today, and I was thinking about the need for a fuse. I don't currently have any fuses anywhere in the system but I know a lot of guys do, though the only fuse in the original wiring would have been on the 3 position switch. Should I have a fuse somewhere for protection? It has been converted to 12v negative ground with distributor ignition and a 3 wire delco alt.
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1951 WD #78283, 1918 Case 28x50 Thresher #76738, Case Centennial B 2x16 Plow
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DougS
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Joined: 03 Nov 2011
Location: Iowa
Points: 2490
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Posted: 01 Jul 2019 at 7:09pm |
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There's no such thing as too many fuses. It's a good idea to fuse the lights. It doesn't hurt to fuse the exciter wire to the alternator. Real Cars have fusible links on almost every heavy wire that connects to the battery, directly or indirectly. Here they're fusing circuits that carry 100+ AMPS. A fuse of 100 AMPS would cost buku bucks and ditto for the fuse holder. There's a point of no return for a WD, though. Fuse the lights. Consider fusing the exciter wire. I wouldn't waste my time fusing anything else.
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Steve in NJ
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Andover, NJ
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Posted: 01 Jul 2019 at 10:48pm |
Its always good to have a fuse link on the output stud of the Alternator to protect it in case of a short. The fuse link will sever and protect the Alt. A 20 amp fuse for the Headlights goes in the 3 pos. switch. For safety use a Voltmeter in lieu of the Ammeter if you haven't already. Safety first! Steve@B&B
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39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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GregLawlerMinn
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Lawler, Mn
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Posted: 02 Jul 2019 at 5:57am |
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Having experienced shorting ammeters, I 2nd Steve's suggestion about the voltmeter.
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What this country needs is more unemployed politicians-and lawyers.
Currently have: 1 D14 and a D15S2.
With new owners: 2Bs,9CAs,1WD,2 D12s,5D14s,3D15S2s, 2D17SIVs,D17D,1D19D;1 Unstyled WC
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jaybmiller
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Greensville,Ont
Points: 24388
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Posted: 02 Jul 2019 at 6:31am |
re: ...
There's no such thing as too many fuses.
hmm...haven't looked under the hood of a 'new' car recently? My '97 F150 has OVER 100 fuses ! Big ones, lil ones, most feeding other fuses ! Oh yeah THREE different locations making it 'fun' to FIND the blown one....
Whatever YOU add, put a fuse into EACH circuit. That way tractor doesn't die,when you overload 1 fuse that's feeding the tractor,lights,and winch.....
re: .. shorting ammeters.... Only ones I've ever come across were shorting, is due to lack of maintenance. Seems nobody( well, very,very few) replaces the 50+ year old dried out,cracked fibre washers used to isolate the ammeter studs from the mounting bracket. You can buy a 'kit' for a buck that has 4 NYLON 'washers', 2 flat ,2 ridged... problem solved.
re: voltmeter vs ammeter.. Unlike the Ford vs Chevy 'fight', a Voltmeter shows the 'potential' of the battery whereas an ammeter shows actual current being used. Recently I spent (wasted) 2 dayze ,on a rider that the voltmeter said '12 volts' but the starter solenoid 'chattered'( this after weeks of running fine,even 5 minutes ago..). PITA changing the solenoid, same chatter,arrgh,MUST be the starter.Changed that, arrgh ,still chatters. Added big ground from battery to starter(common fix), chatter remains... I pull battery, 'smart' charger agrees with voltmeter....fine. I replace battery, vrooom..... Old battery didn't pass a load test( I assume bad cell...on caps on new ones..)
Jay
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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DougS
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Joined: 03 Nov 2011
Location: Iowa
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Posted: 02 Jul 2019 at 6:49am |
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Check the size of the fuse that you'd need for a winch. The winches and snow plows I'm familiar with used direct connections to the battery, with a #2 or thicker wire. It isn't practical to fuse such a circuit. An ammeter shows current flow but that's about all. When used with an alternator and the battery is fully charged, the ammeter will essentially read zero. If the alternator goes bad while being used, the ammeter may show a slight discharge, but you probably won't notice it with a 60-0-60 ammeter. You will notice that the alternator is no longer putting out 14+ volts when you use a voltmeter. External fuses protect the wiring, not the device. There's a big chance of a fire when the wiring shorts out in a car. With a WD an unfused wire may burn up, but getting trapped in the seat while the wiring burns just shouldn't happen.
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Joe(TX)
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Posted: 02 Jul 2019 at 12:09pm |
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Circuit breakers are a better choice in my opinion, especially in high amperage circuits. You are not left dead like when a fuse blows.
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1970 190XT, 1973 200, 1962 D-19 Diesel, 1979 7010, 1957 WD45, 1950 WD, 1961 D17, Speed Patrol, D14, All crop 66 big bin, 180 diesel, 1970 170 diesel, FP80 forklift. Gleaner A
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DougS
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Posted: 02 Jul 2019 at 12:26pm |
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And there's no voltage drop through a magnetic circuit breaker, Joe. Cost is an issue with high amperage breakers, though. Finding a mounting spot on a WD is another issue.
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Bill_MN
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Sioux Falls, SD
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Posted: 02 Jul 2019 at 2:57pm |
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Thanks guys, though I never said anything about a winch. I am using a voltmeter, and just a two position push-pull for lights. I will add a fuse to the charging circuit and lights.
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1951 WD #78283, 1918 Case 28x50 Thresher #76738, Case Centennial B 2x16 Plow
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DougS
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Location: Iowa
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Posted: 02 Jul 2019 at 3:50pm |
Pick up some of these: https://www.amazon.com/Nilight-NI-FH01-Inline-Harness-Automotive/dp/B07426WCLM/ref=sr_1_11?keywords=mini+fuse+blocks&qid=1562100366&s=gateway&sr=8-11Your local auto parts store probably has them too. Beware of the el-cheapo versions. You'd need a butt splice or two to put them in the circuit.
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jaybmiller
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Location: Greensville,Ont
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Posted: 02 Jul 2019 at 5:29pm |
All the 'ATV style' winches I've dealt with or seen have 'auto-resettable-circuit breakers in . the battery +1 line. Usually 2 , 40Amp units in parallel. NOT having some kind of protection can be disasterous. I saw a snowplowing Chevy 3/4T burn to the ground in '75. 'Something' shorted in the hydraulicpump/motor unit,heat/fire got under the hood and well 2 hrs later, tow truck hauled to scrapyard. 100-200-300 Amp fuses are available($$) , every battery operated towmotor/forklift have them. You can salvage 100 or 150A ones from scrap cars, usually 2 at the battery.
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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