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Fuel line |
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brews4me ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 24 Jun 2013 Location: Aguilar, CO Points: 37 |
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Does anyone have a good source for bulk fuel line where I can bend and flare the line myself.
I've called and looked quite a few places and no luck, i only seem to find high performance and racing expensive stuff.
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DrAllis ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 21480 |
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Brake line at Auto-Zone wouldn't work ??
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brews4me ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 24 Jun 2013 Location: Aguilar, CO Points: 37 |
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You might be right, i wasn't aware it was the same, they said they also rent the flaring tool for 40$ deposit and 45 days to return.
Advance Auto Parts
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DrAllis ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 21480 |
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I know there's standard sizes and metric sizes, but both available in various lengths up to make 6 ft long ??
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Johnwilson_osf ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 29 Jul 2012 Location: Mount Bethel PA Points: 941 |
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I just replaced the fuel line on my 8010, and used the NiCop brake lines. The OD was almost identical to the original fuel line. Easy to bend, and wont corrode like a steel line.
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Allis Express: Eastern PA on Rt 80
8050, 8010, 6080, 190, D14, DA 6035, AA 6690, 5650, Gleaner F2 |
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1953CA ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 01 Jan 2011 Location: Burlington, WA Points: 505 |
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Or NAPA
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1945 AllisCletrac / 1948 "B" / 1953 "CA" / 1955 "WD-45" / 1963 "D-15 Series II"
"No Air Support without Ground Support" |
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Ed (Ont) ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 08 Nov 2009 Location: New Lowell, Ont Points: 1465 |
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You can also use the nickel copper brake line available now in 25ft rolls. Flares easier and much easier to bend and route. Just pick your size probably 5/16". Buy the flaring tool and you have it for next time. Then you can fix your buddy's brake lines as well. LOL
Edited by Ed (Ont) - 17 Nov 2016 at 9:01pm |
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brews4me ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 24 Jun 2013 Location: Aguilar, CO Points: 37 |
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I read someplace that copper is a bad choice, but nickel copper must be different, especially since it's used for break lines???
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Brian Jasper co. Ia ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Prairie City Ia Points: 10508 |
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Not a thing in the world wrong with using copper for fuel lines. It was common for small engines to use copper years ago.
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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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brews4me ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 24 Jun 2013 Location: Aguilar, CO Points: 37 |
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Ok, well here's the type of things i've seen, not saying they're right but it is on the internet!!!!! hahahhaha
I wouldn't use copper unless you double-flair it, but it's so soft that you'll probably compress the DF after a couple of removals-n-retightens and you may have leaks (bad). I would never use copper for fuel lines. Any vibrations work-hardens copper, making it brittle and prone to cracking. In the case of using it for a fuel line, that would more than likely cause a fire and burn your ride up (and passengers, if they weren't quick). It doesn't hold up well to vibration in the long term. Not worth taking a chance on with fuel. A definite no-no for brakes too. Real bad idea there, in case anyone was wondering..... Get some SS tubing, it'll stay looking nice. |
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DrAllis ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 21480 |
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I can't imagine copper would withstand a double-flare without splitting...maybe. As far as the vibration claim.....depends......depends on how long of line and depends on how well it is secured.....also depends on the degree of vibration. Lots of variables there.
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brews4me ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 24 Jun 2013 Location: Aguilar, CO Points: 37 |
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I'm going to try the ni copper, i think they say 90% CU and 10 Ni.
Bends easy and I'm only going 2 feet. The net always seems to be the extreme example, someone probably ran copper 50 feet and around the drive shaft, then said i had issues with it!!!!! Thanks much! |
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dawntreader74 ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 28 Oct 2013 Location: Manteno Points: 1770 |
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brake line or copper always did the job'
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SteveMaskey(MO) ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Wellsville, MO Points: 613 |
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I redone my fuel line on my 180 15 years ago with brake lines so I could turn off fuel without removing side panel as suggested by the Dr. or Mack can't remember which one.
It was easy to do and is still working good. The brake line will bend without kinking so it makes the job easer.
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brews4me ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 24 Jun 2013 Location: Aguilar, CO Points: 37 |
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Does anyone know the size or MOSTLY sure of 1958 D14 fuel line????? Someone thought maybe 5/16??? Seems like a lot of break line is 3/16 or 1/4.
It is part number 227860 in the parts diagram for this D14. I'm not lazy, the tractor is stored in the barn for winter 250 miles away and I want to guess my best guess of parts to haul down some warm winter day to work on it. If it's wrong I will of course just bring the parts home to take to the auto store but this would save me a 500 mile round trip if I can get it right to take down the first time. ![]() Edited by brews4me - 18 Nov 2016 at 11:12am |
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Johnwilson_osf ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 29 Jul 2012 Location: Mount Bethel PA Points: 941 |
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I will put the Mike on mine when I get home
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Allis Express: Eastern PA on Rt 80
8050, 8010, 6080, 190, D14, DA 6035, AA 6690, 5650, Gleaner F2 |
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Kevin in WA ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 08 Feb 2010 Location: Lynden, WA Points: 612 |
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1/4 inch
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Ed (Ont) ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 08 Nov 2009 Location: New Lowell, Ont Points: 1465 |
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The copper nickel lines are great. Don't let anyone tell you otherwise. I've got lots of these brake lines on all kinds of vehicles. Including my own.
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brews4me ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 24 Jun 2013 Location: Aguilar, CO Points: 37 |
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Does the cheap flaring tool work ok with the Ni CU line, all I see are horrible reviews for the flaring tools for break lines, or at least the cheap ones I'd buy for a few flares??? I'm a firm believer that quality tools matter but i don't see me doing more than 2 or 4 flared ends on fuel lines. The rental ones are the same cheap ones that sell for 30$
I was hoping that the softer NICU lines might flare easily with these cheap tools, I'm betting that cheap doesn't work on steel??? Edited by brews4me - 21 Nov 2016 at 1:21pm |
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plummerscarin ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 22 Jun 2015 Location: ia Points: 3823 |
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I have three flaring tools that range from cheap to fairly expensive and have had relatively little trouble with flaring either metal. A square cut, deburr and proper depth when starting a flare are important for a successful result. HTH
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Ed (Ont) ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 08 Nov 2009 Location: New Lowell, Ont Points: 1465 |
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The cheap flaring tool should be okay on either steel or the nickel copper. That's all I have used for the last 40 yrs. They work well. Do a few first to practice. I just ordered a hyd flare tool. Getting spoiled in my old age. LOL. I do a fair bit of brake line repairs tho.
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Steve in NJ ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Andover, NJ Points: 11945 |
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I've always used steel brake line for fuel or oil lines in my Tractors, Hotrods, anything that I'm moving fuel or oil. Double flare the ends (don't forgit to put the nut on first) install it and forget about it! Stainless is nice, but tough to bend!
Steve@B&B |
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39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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