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sageeyah175 
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Joined: 27 May 2020
Location: ne okla
Points: 17
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 Topic: fuel guage or fuel sender
Posted: 28 Jun 2024 at 2:36pm |
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This is for my AC 175D. About 2 months ago fuel guage was very eratic. Two days ago fuel guage pegged to the far right and stays there even after key is turned off. I believe I need a new fuel sender but do I also need a new fuel guage? And where would be a good
place to look for the needed items. Thank you for replies
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DiyDave
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Gambrills, MD
Points: 51707
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Posted: 28 Jun 2024 at 3:14pm |
Pull the sender and see if there are any markings on it. As long as you get a sender that matches the one you have, I see no reason to change the gauge...
As to where to get it, DJ's or Steiner would be a pretty good start...  |
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captaindana
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Joined: 14 Sep 2009
Location: Fort Plain, NY
Points: 2462
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Posted: 28 Jun 2024 at 7:23pm |
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Think I’ve heard a bad ground will peg to the right?
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Blue Skies and Tail Winds
Dana
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sageeyah175
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Joined: 27 May 2020
Location: ne okla
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Posted: 28 Jun 2024 at 7:56pm |
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So where and how would I put a ground wire on the guage?
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sageeyah175
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Location: ne okla
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Posted: 28 Jun 2024 at 7:59pm |
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So where would I place a ground wire on the guage?
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AC720Man
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Joined: 10 Oct 2016
Location: Shenandoah, Va
Points: 4926
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Posted: 28 Jun 2024 at 8:15pm |
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Just went through this on my buddies 175D. Tried a sending unit first but it ended up being the gauge. Gauge is grounded through the metal gauge panel. All points of contact need to be cleaned so a good ground can be obtained through the bolts holding the panel in place. You can always run a separate ground wire to one of the bolts or to the rear of the gauge mounting bolts. He ordered the sending unit and the gauge from Sandy Lake Implement in PA.
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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BigGuy1000
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Joined: 06 Dec 2013
Location: NWIL
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Posted: 28 Jun 2024 at 9:21pm |
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I have 175D with same problem, I got a new tank sender from Steiner Tractor!!!!
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Lynn Marshall
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Dana, Iowa
Points: 2284
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Posted: 28 Jun 2024 at 10:00pm |
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Unfortunately, I don't think that you can get to the sending unit without pulling the hood on that tractor. The sending unit acts as a variable ground, similar to the way that a reostat works for your home lighting. You can test the gauge by removing the sending unit wire from it. Turn the key on and the gauge will peg fully one way. Now hook up a good ground wire to the gauge post and it should read the exact opposite way. The sending unit is usually the problem, in my opinion. It helps to have a separate ground on one of the sending unit screws because the tank webbing doesn't always provide a good ground for the tank. You can test the unit after removing it by leaving the sending unit wire on and grounding the base. Then just cycle the float arm up and down and watch the gauge react. The float can also crack and get fuel in them.
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AC720Man
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Location: Shenandoah, Va
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Posted: 28 Jun 2024 at 10:19pm |
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Ok, I’m embarrassed and misread the first post. I was referring to the temperature gauge repair I did, how I missed fuel gauge is beyond me.
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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Lynn Marshall
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Location: Dana, Iowa
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Posted: 29 Jun 2024 at 8:50am |
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The electric temperature gauge works on the same principle as the fuel gauge, a variable ground. Take the wire off of the sending unit and the gauge should go completely one way. Now fully ground that wire and the gauge should go completely the opposite way. If it does, that should mean that the gauge and wire are good.
Edited by Lynn Marshall - 29 Jun 2024 at 8:53am
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Codger
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Joined: 23 Dec 2020
Location: Utopia
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Posted: 29 Jun 2024 at 12:25pm |
I made a little test jig for this purpose and it's nothing but a simple precision five turn 10 watt, 0-500 ohm rheostat, a couple of banana test lead receptacles, and leads fitted to a small aluminum enclosure. Works very well wired in series with the gauge. Easily checks "go, no go", linearity, and response to changes.
33 ohm for full scale deflection, and 240 ohm for minimum is a very common standard pioneered and adopted by Stewart-Warner and by far the most common. Still very much in use also.
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