WD or WD45 block?

I am building a pulling motor for my wc, it's gonna have a wd45 crank in it that has been restroked, a 170 cam, farmalls h rods, and 4 1/8 inch pistons. What block would this combination fit best in? I have a wd and wd45 block I can use and I was thinking it might be nice to have the pushrod cover be able to come off (like that on the wd block) that way I wouldn't have to pull the motor apart to see if I have a broken rod. Is that a good reason to use the wd block, of should I just use the 45 block? Looking forward to the expert opinions, and you fellas stay warm!

me i used a d17 in mine but like charlie said it depends on the rules at the tracks your pulling at

Use the WD-45 block......it's stronger than any W-201.

can you tell the difference in a series 1 d17 226 or a wd45 226 and i dont sleep with the club people I am a founding member of the club and the club VP and i pull all over the state in usap and natpa pulls

A lot of people don't know that it takes a good AC man to tell in the classes I pull in you can pull a E engine 

bring your tractor and come on down and pull with us we like the competition we have 6 pulls a year

Edited by patrickmull - 12 Feb 2014 at 7:25pm

Thanks fellas, ill go ahead and use the 45 block seems go just make sense!

Does a WC have a gearing advantage over a WD in these types of pulls?
The WD I used didn't do very well but it has not had a thing done to it either, so I cant say much. Clutch did not slip and basically spun out. So it did not seem to be lacking power.  Not sure I am going to get real serious about pulling, but when you go it would be nice to be more competitive too. I do have a extra 45 block, WD crank, WD flat top pistons and short WD head.
With those parts what would be a good approach to building a good engine on a low budget? I am not a engine builder so any suggestions would be helpful.  I am sure sending it to a engine builder would be one option.
Are there AC pulling engine build 101 classes:)
Regards,
Chris
 

WC is faster then WD, wd is faster then wd45.

Per Natpa rules. WD blocks are a replacement for a WC but that is it until you hit div 3.
Which is up to a D17.
Depending on what your rules say. Newer is better as has been pointed out.

No I mean you can use a Wc or Wd block in a Wc. In div 1 or 2.

2t and up you can use anything up to a D17.
If you find a document that shows factory replacement block for a Wc other than a Wd block I would like to see it.

The key to Natpa rules "visual appearance". Just like you can run a leroi head if you can find
One since they look the same externally. Or a 45 crank.

If you can find me info that says they did factory replacements, I can get the rules changed but otherwise it lets
In a lot of other direct drop ins for other makes.

Years ago when I was running the WC in our local pulling association we didn't have much for rules, but had to have a "stock block"  Not much else mattered.  Fellow built a MM Z with a billet alumnium head, overhead cam setup.

I had to run the 201 block, it was almost a problem to use a later #40 block, but it was alright.  I could not use a 45 block.  I would have loved to be able to use D-17 and Gleaner E parts, common and much much stronger but the Oliver guys seamed to have a problem with the Allis guys and made sure we had the right parts.

So being nothing was impossible, but some things take a long time, I hogged out billet caps, girdle, cross bolted the block above the center main and tied the deck to the crankcase by welding the sleeves in.  I cross bolted the new main caps to the pan rails. We didn't have any oil pan restrictions or such like I think some NATPA classes to with a certain thickness girdle.  It was pretty strong and proved to be bullet proof for many many years even taking a hit of NOS when the rules would allow.  At first getting much past 5200 RPM proved more than stock rocker arm shaft could handle, the ends of the shaft that were un supported would just bend up.  Then I made L shaped brackets to go under a head bolt on each end and slugged the ends of the rocker shaft and bolted them down.  That took care of things, much over 6500 RPM though the valves would float.  I had changed valves and springs, different cam profile and ran a downdraft carb with a new intake setup and with a light load in the yard in testing the pipes were ringing pretty good and the recall on the tach said 7050 rpm so I never tried to turn it that hard again, I figured the setup was fine.  I got into the Alcohol Super Stock and just haven't messed with it since.

If I had to build over again, I'd counterweight the crankshaft to take the stress off the block.

I just built this



Edited by wi50 - 24 Feb 2014 at 9:31am

I'll talk to the tech man tomorrow about it then. Since it is online I'm not sure
How that will work out but worth a shot.

I'll call my local dealer and see if I can get a paper version from there parts book.

Well, your tech guy just ain't that bright, I guess. Go ahead and try and order a replacement block for a WC or WD or WD-45, and you'll be told the P/N is 70227049 and they are discontinued/no longer available. Been like that for 30 or more years, I'd suspect. The point is, a WD-45 block truly was the authorized REPLACEMENT block for a WC or WD. That's all. There have always been people who make stupid rules and probably always will be people who continue to make stupid rules.  No WC or WD owner should be disqualified for having a WD-45 block. It's just ignorant to do so. The claim of "more stroke room" being available in a late WD block (which is true).... what in Sam Hill does that have to do with calling a WD-45 block in a WC or WD illegal??????? Nothing.