New D 14 Owner. A couple Questions

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   Hey Guys, New to the forum and just finally purchased my 1st tractor! Its a D 14. Runs great, tires are decent. I'm putting a loader with trip bucket on it that came off my neihbors D 17. I plan on using the tractor for a little mowing with a finishing and sickle mower and I also plan to get a 3 pt. conversion, also from my neighbors D 17 for a blade, mower ect.. Two of the questions I had so far are, The lift arms don't seem to move. When I bought it the previous owner said they were sticking a little but if you put a blade or weight on them they work fine. I tried moving the lever on the left above the traction control lever with the tractor running, putting my weight on it and can't seem to get them to move. I tried doing a search and read somthing about trying to turn the screw on the front of the pump in and then back out. Do you have to drain the oil and remove the plate on the right to get to the pump?
My other question is the hand clutch, The neutral in not there. The high and low work fine but there is no neutral. I tried it with the tractor in gear and it still moves forward, and I tried it in neutral with the PTO engaged and the PTO still turns. Is there some way to adjust the hand clutch lever? Sorry this is so long. Thanks

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acw592 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 29 Jan 2010 Location: Iowa Points: 13	Post Options Post Reply Quote acw592 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: New D 14 Owner. A couple Questions Posted: 29 Jan 2010 at 2:19pm
	Hey Guys, New to the forum and just finally purchased my 1st tractor! Its a D 14. Runs great, tires are decent. I'm putting a loader with trip bucket on it that came off my neihbors D 17. I plan on using the tractor for a little mowing with a finishing and sickle mower and I also plan to get a 3 pt. conversion, also from my neighbors D 17 for a blade, mower ect.. Two of the questions I had so far are, The lift arms don't seem to move. When I bought it the previous owner said they were sticking a little but if you put a blade or weight on them they work fine. I tried moving the lever on the left above the traction control lever with the tractor running, putting my weight on it and can't seem to get them to move. I tried doing a search and read somthing about trying to turn the screw on the front of the pump in and then back out. Do you have to drain the oil and remove the plate on the right to get to the pump? My other question is the hand clutch, The neutral in not there. The high and low work fine but there is no neutral. I tried it with the tractor in gear and it still moves forward, and I tried it in neutral with the PTO engaged and the PTO still turns. Is there some way to adjust the hand clutch lever? Sorry this is so long. Thanks

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GlenninPA Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Ashley, PA Points: 5054	Post Options Post Reply Quote GlenninPA Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 29 Jan 2010 at 2:25pm
	Welcome to the forum. I can't answer a single question you have on the D14, but there are a lot of guys here who can. You found the right place!

Austin(WI) Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Wisconsin Points: 1460	Post Options Post Reply Quote Austin(WI) Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 29 Jan 2010 at 2:37pm
	Okay for #1. you said you tried lifting them and there is nothing at all? Check to make sure that there is oil in the hydraulic compartment..If it is cold outside give it some time to warm up a little. But if it is cold it should still move a little...but if there is no movement at all...The rollers on the pump maybe shot..that is what happened on our D-17...lift arms wouldnt come up..but here the rollers where shot. That may be a posibility. As for the Power Director...once again if it is cold out the oil is thicker and it will still move forward when in the neutral position. the true test to see if someting is wrong is to put the tractor in gear and put the power director in neutral then keep your foot on the breaks...if the tractor wants to go and it tries to cut out on you...PD needs some attention..but it not...then it is like I said..The oil just needs to warm up in the PD compartment....you should be able to put your foot on the break when the PD is in neutral and the tractor will stop with no problems. Let me know if this helps.
	"Better By Design"

acw592 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 29 Jan 2010 Location: Iowa Points: 13	Post Options Post Reply Quote acw592 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 29 Jan 2010 at 8:19pm
	Thanks for the help. On the lift arms I am going to check the adjustment on the traction control to make sure that isn't the problem. I will try to throw the hand clutch in neutral tomorrow and see if the tractor will stop. I have to take my starter off before I do anything. It locked up on me today. My neighbor told me how to take it loose and re-install it. He says thats fairly common on these tractors. Thanks again!

BrettPhillips Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Strasburg, VA Points: 808	Post Options Post Reply Quote BrettPhillips Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 30 Jan 2010 at 2:09pm
	A locking starter is a sign that the starter drive (bendix) is getting tired. They aren't hard to replace and the cost is better than a new starter.

jaybmiller Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Greensville,Ont Points: 23015	Post Options Post Reply Quote jaybmiller Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 30 Jan 2010 at 3:03pm
	You should also check the battery cables too. Replace them with brand new units and clean any paint off the frame or studs. You need really,really good wires + connections.

CTuckerNWIL Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: NW Illinois Points: 22823	Post Options Post Reply Quote CTuckerNWIL Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 30 Jan 2010 at 3:22pm
	And when the Hand Clutch, or power director is in neutral and you step on the brake to stop forward motion of the tractor the PTO, when engaged, will contiue to operate. The foot clutch will temporarily disengage the PTO but to shut it of there is a lever that has to be shifted.
	http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF

DSeries4 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Ontario, Canada Points: 7364	Post Options Post Reply Quote DSeries4 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 30 Jan 2010 at 7:50pm
	a D17 loader will not fit a D14

Tyee II Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 06 Dec 2009 Location: Scappoose OR Points: 66	Post Options Post Reply Quote Tyee II Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 30 Jan 2010 at 8:49pm
	It is possible there is a selector valve for the hydraulics. If it has a remote connection or has had a loader the selector valve would have been used to disable the lift arms when the remote equipment or loader was in use. Typically mounted left of the seat on the axle. Check it out. Edited by Tyee II - 30 Jan 2010 at 8:57pm

Jack(Ky) Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Ky Points: 1153	Post Options Post Reply Quote Jack(Ky) Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 30 Jan 2010 at 10:29pm
	I think the very first thing I would do is drain the hyd compartment and the PD compartment and get some new oil in them just so you know what you have in it. If the oils are a little thick you wouldn't notice it much if you just used it in the summer. In cold weather even with thin oil it takes a little while to get the PD to slip like it should. And the lift will be a little stiffer in cold weather too. And as Tyee mentioned it could have a "splitter" valve on it too. If the traction booster handle is pretty close to the top it will take weight to make the arms go down too.JP

acw592 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 29 Jan 2010 Location: Iowa Points: 13	Post Options Post Reply Quote acw592 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 01 Feb 2010 at 10:57am
	Thanks for the replies, I've been gone a few days because our computer got a virus on it. Couldnt even get online. I did get the starter to work by removing the tapered bolt, pulling the starter out a little and placing it back in. The battery cables are actually fairly new and clean. I tried driving the tractor while putting the power director in the neutral position and was able to stop with the brakes, so it looks like that is ok. There is not a splitter valve on the tractor, just the transport valve. I did try to move the traction control lever and there wasnt any movement on the traction booster linkage that I could see. I loosened the rear jam nut and I then could move the arms a little manually without the tractor running. I didnt want to start it because I had just used silicone on the bottom of the transport valve to stop a leak and was waiting for it to set. Oh, the loader came off of a D17 but is a Massey F. loader I believe. It fits fine. I hope to get time before work today to start it up and try the arms.

CTuckerNWIL Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: NW Illinois Points: 22823	Post Options Post Reply Quote CTuckerNWIL Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 01 Feb 2010 at 11:38am
	I my be wrong, but I don't think silicone will help with a leak in a 3000 psi hydraulic system. Good luck with the tractor, I think you picked a handy one. Take your time getting used to it and figuring everything out. I'm sure, in time you wil totally enjoy the experience. Here is one of the most important tools you will need in working on the D14. http://www.3000toys.com/allis/products.asp?cat=2&type=books&find=ACWD45D14 Charlie Edited by CTuckerNWIL - 01 Feb 2010 at 11:42am
	http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF

Austin(WI) Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Wisconsin Points: 1460	Post Options Post Reply Quote Austin(WI) Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 01 Feb 2010 at 2:56pm
	If you wanna know a little history behind the D-14...check out my Youtube Channel! :) AllisChalmersD19
	"Better By Design"

acw592 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 29 Jan 2010 Location: Iowa Points: 13	Post Options Post Reply Quote acw592 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 01 Feb 2010 at 10:50pm
	Charlie, You sure were right on that one. My neighbor told me that if I ever had a hyd. hose made to make sure it was for a high pressure system. Not sure what I was thinking with the silicone. I will be picking up a sheet of gasket material. Austin, I will be sure to check out your youtube page Thanks

acw592 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 29 Jan 2010 Location: Iowa Points: 13	Post Options Post Reply Quote acw592 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 04 Feb 2010 at 10:55pm
	Well I think I found the problem today. I tried making a gasket for the transport valve and noticed the ram hose that goes from the valve to the cylinder which controls the arms is leaking. That explains why the differential fluid is always foamy looking. Im going to try removing the lift crank housing tomorrow and having a new high pressure hose made.