where to get a 175 cam

was looking for 175 cams to put into the ol wd this winter but couldnt find anything, where do you get them, all ready looked at the sources on this website

You're not going to find a 175 gas camshaft anywhere. Even if you did, you'd need a different oil pump or oil pump drive gear and a different camshaft gear on the nose of the cam. Send a good WC-WD cam ( one that fits your engine-make sure you know which gear you have on the nose) to Berry Cams in Lester Prarie, Minnesota and they will regrind it for you to 175 specs.

What do you mean by cam nose gear

Berry cams just finished a puller cam for my brothers 38 wc. Was $209 for cam grind and all lifters resurfaced.

anybody know berry cams and Barney Taylor's phone numbers or email adresses? google search got nothing

Barney about two weeks ago told me he wasn't going to have anymore ground . I am waiting on  a little cash flow to purchase his good cores  to have ground however he could have changed his mind it has been two weeks. If you run most of the grinds in a cam dr. you find most are exactly the same pattern with the largest being .330 lobe lift and 276 to 280 advertised duration . barney , berry, bullitt , jones, comp. etc jmho

Edited by mlpankey - 09 May 2013 at 4:16pm

wi50, I need to get with you quick! I am thinking of a new cam, would like to discuss what you have. I want to keep mine going till I can do the swap.

mlpankey wrote: Barney about two weeks ago told me he wasn't going to have anymore ground . I am waiting on  a little cash flow to purchase his good cores  to have ground however he could have changed his mind it has been two weeks. If you run most of the grinds in a cam dr. you find most are exactly the same pattern with the largest being .330 lobe lift and 276 to 280 advertised duration . barney , berry, bullitt , jones, comp. etc jmho

Barney likes pankey as much as everyone else so he's chareing at least tripple for the cores. With pankeys cam specs an engine will make 1/3 the power of one with a stock cam.    3x the price for 1/3 the performance. Anyone need to ask why he's waiting for a few bucks to buy parts$

I know this is a older thread but, Berry info:

I've had a few people supply me with cams for their engines that came from Berry in the recent past. The grind is so far off that it simply won't work. These people didn't know what they wanted in the first place and let Berry do the thinking.....or just said they wanted that magic 175 grind.

I have used Berry to grind cams recently, but I supplied the data and specs I wanted, they were just fine. I have a couple other grinders grind cams and keep a few different grinds on hand.

When it comes to cams, let the right people spec things out. This is an old thread, but if you read some of the above posts you'll see some self proclaimed wizard tell us to use a cam with an advertised duration of 270-280 degrees. Most of you don't know what that means, and the few who do know better than to take advice like that. For that type of an advertised duration to work with any reasonable @.050" numbers the ramp would be so "slow" that the engine would be extremely lazy, and good at burning exhaust valves.

Edited by wi50 - 24 Aug 2014 at 5:04pm

Exhaust temps are the same as ambient temps for you boys. Boom after a few failed attempts. I seam to recall the boy not being able to move the sled. I also recall the nitwit saying that a siamesed port engine wouldn't tolerate more than 224* @ .050" furcation can. So if you still think you need 280/advertised duration, then explain why such a slow ramp is good for a torque engine......seams to me like you boys don't know enough about camshafts to post any legitimate information, or don't rember what you post and make up bs to cover more bs (which is the case here).

Charlie ken dakin bought seven or eight individual regrind cams from different cam grinders the ones they advertise as a stocking grind for them and they all cam doctor the same . a radical grind for 240 inches is a stock grind for 400 inches and that information feed to grinder of choice will make all the difference from a can the grinder stocks as a shelf cam to a custom cam .

Edited by mgburchard - 26 Aug 2014 at 8:53am

The Berry grind that people keep getting that is messed up is about 280* advertised duration and about 242* or 244* @.050 duration. It simply won't work. I believe the master lobe numbers to be 317f but I'm going from memory. I've had a few guys drop off their "175 grind" and this is what Berry gave them. I called Berry to ask why they did this and got a genaric reply that is "what we do for all of them".... Well I hope they didn't grind to many that way as it's a waste of a cam core.

Your bone stock cams will have a .050" duration of about 185*. I've measured several from early to late and wrote down the specs in my notebook, its not in front of me now and I don't recall the seat or advertised duration or the lobe separation angles (LSA) 105 or so sticks in my mind.

The biggest drawback to the stock cams is the can to crank timing, or can phasing. The events are happening way to late. Typically if I put a degree wheel on and mark true TDC and find the intake centerline or ICL of a can it's out there around 112 or 113* ATDC. This isn't good.

You've got a reasonably stock engine, if you were to use a plain stock can and simply advance it one tooth you would gain a bunch. One tooth is worth just over 13* of crankshaft rotation. This means that your ICL would be right around 100*atdc. I'd rather see you split the tooth by slotting the holes in the gear, or cutting a new keyway in the shaft and go for a 104*atdc ICL. It would be better to add about 10 degrees of duration @.050 lift by having a can ground with a .050" duration of in the mid 190's, for example 195*@.050", and a seat duration of roughly 235* This will vary slightly with the can grinders master lobes and what they have to work with. With your smaller engine, slow speed and reasonably stock parts, I'd keep the lobe separation angle down around 105 or 106*. If I'm getting a cal for a mid sized engine I go for a 107*LSA and for the larger engines 108 or 109 LSA. All these are just slight changes with minimal effect on things. I'll go with a .050" duration of about 202 to 210 on the mid sized engines depending on what they run for rpm, carb, head work etc. On the larger engines I'll add a little more duration, and as I said spread the lobe separations just a bit.

Long story short, if you're cheap, throw the stock cam in one tooth advanced....if you're ambitious measure the ICL and degree the cam in at 104 ICL. If you want to spend a few hundred bucks there will be slight improvement by grinding a cam for about 195*@.050 duration on both lobes, 106 LSA and decreeing or timing the cam to 104 ICl.

It is nice if a grinder will grind a split duration, meaning one duration on the intake lobe and another on the exhaust lobe. These siamesed port 4 cyl engines can benefit from a slightly longer intake duration then exhaust. I use some cams with a 210*@.050 intake and a 195@.050 exhaust. The problem with the siamesed port is the exhaust overlap on one cylinder while the intakes on a shared port are on overlap, any to much duration causes a problem and by trimming the exhaust duration back, the engine can tolerate a little more time to breathe on the intakes.

Seams to me that the reason everyone wants to use .050 lifter rise is because that's where apples compare to apples .its my understanding that grinders use anywhere from .004 to .008 lifter rise for advertised duration but what do I know that's why I trust the wizard

I have no idea what all the degrees and lift does. I just want a better running motor :)