Allis 80 T or R Sickle Mower

Hey everyone, I just purchased an 80 R or T not sure which but I broke one of the connecting arms under the twin drive.  Does anyone know of a  salvage dealer that could come up with a replacement?  The local dealer I called said the part is no longer available.

The 80 R is a Snap Coupler attaching mower. The 80T is a trailer type mower. Someone parting some out can probably help you out.  Tracy Martin

Edited by Tracy Martin TN - 31 Aug 2011 at 11:11am

I wouldn't think it's normal for a connecting rod to break unless it was hammering from a bad bearings in the rod or the reel drive tower. I have a #7 pull type and after new bearings in the con. rods wich are pricy and aircraft grade and getting a tower to quit leaking oil I like it. With help from guys on here on setting it also. It should be pretty quiet when opperating if not you've got some slop in the drive somewere and it will end up breaking.

So the road ahead seems a little long, does anyone know where I could buy another connecting rod so I can start to diagnos these other concerns?

I also just bought a 80r mower aand it had a broken bearing support that drives one of the twin balance wheel, called sandy lake and they aare having a new one shipped fron Kansas city parts depot tomorrow direct to me. were very knowledgeable and a lot of help sure hope parts come fast cause the grass is growing wicked.

Dem old JD's shake everything apart

i just found this post and i have a ac sickle mower as well, not sure how to hook it up and where i can find a bet for it. it was given to me about a year ago.  where do i find the numbers on the unit so i can get better help from everyone on here

pictures posted on here will help with identifying mower type.  To me the easiest to identify are the 80T and 82T.  The axle on the 82T is angled, the 80T is not.

for more help in narrowing it down:

T = trailer type. has tires.
S = side mount.  mounts in front of rear wheels.
R = mounts to rear of tractor.

I think its R3 for a 3 point mount?

I have a No. 7 mower and have aquired some spare parts over the years.  I think I might have a connecting rod that fits an 80 that doesn't fit my No 7.  I have the parts books, so if you know the part number that you need I can look up which style it is and whether or not it is what I have.  I won't give it away ( I've paid dearly for what I've collected), but would sell for market value.

does it look like one of these?

OK. you have the 80-R. They made two different styles of the connecting rods and crossbars, prior to serial no. R-6101 the connecting rod didn't have a bearing cap with  grease zerk on it. The serial no. is on the top of right frame above the front tube.  HTH.

Your comment about the knifehead piqued my interest as I have broken one on my 80t.  I pulled this out of a fence row and the knifehead was broken.  It hadn't been used in a number of years.   I replaced it along with the sections, some of the guards, the tires, a drive pulley spring and the drive belt.  I still missing both of the original caps on the twin wheels where the crossbar / bearing sits.  I made two of these 3-bolt bearing covers out of tin but I'd like to find two originals.  Until then, I keep using it with my homemade ones.... After lots of wire wheel rust removal, cleanup, grease and oil it was running very smoothly and quietly.   It was cutting very nicely in 3ft tall grass/red clover mix.  Then bang! the new knifehead broke.  Both knifeheads were broken at the first rivet, closest to the twin wheels crossbar.  The "post" where the knifehead connects to the twin wheel crossbar is actually a large bushing with serrations on the bottom to match the serrations on the knifehead, a large bolt goes down from the top, through the "post/bushing" and screws into the knifehead.  While the "post/bushing" floats up and down easily in the twin wheels crossbar, I wouldn't call it slop. It seems to me that the twin wheels crossbar travels up and down some while being pushed in and out.  It would appear that anything done (such as a large washer on top) to secure the twin wheels crossbar to prevent the up and down movement (slop?) would also keep the "post/bushing" from turning inside of the twin wheels crossbar.  You could be correct and have highlighted a cause for my issue as well the original poster here, so I'll take a closer look at this point when putting it back together.  I actually suspected that the problem was with the most inside section hitting the inside rock guard (most likely the upper part) instead of sliding through it smoothly.  In both cases there was damage on one or both of these first section/guard components.  The was thinking it must be an issue with the first hold-down bracket or the wear-plate.  I appreciate all the great help on this site any additional suggestions will be welcomed. Doug.

Tracy Martin TN wrote: The 80 R is a Snap Coupler attaching mower. The 80T is a trailer type mower. Someone parting some out can probably help you out.  Tracy Martin

The #7 mower was the snap-coupler mower. For the 80R mower you had to take the hitch off and mount a bracket where the hitch bail would mount.