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jaybmiller 
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Greensville,Ont
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 Topic: G charge /light switch
Posted: 03 Mar 2011 at 6:46am |
OK, in my zest to get my 'new' G running after I rebuilt the generator, I can't find the scrap of paper that had what wires go to which screws on the switch.Arrghh...should never have cleaned up the garage.It deserves all new wiring,cut,cut,snip,snip,ooops...
I have the overall diagram, but nothing like a closeup of the switch with labels as to what the terminals mean.Anyone know what R,H, S really mean ?
Sadley, this is the SECOND time I've done this and can't find the original scribbles I did 4 years ago on my first G.....
Sigh, getting old..what happened to the 'wisom of the age' nonsense ?
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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oldironguy
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Joined: 01 Oct 2010
Location: Shoreview, Minn
Points: 370
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Posted: 03 Mar 2011 at 3:48pm |
Jay,
I don't have the answers you need but am also rebuilding my G and will have the same question in a few weeks. When you get and answer, please share.
Dick
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Dave Richards (WV)
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Joined: 14 Sep 2009
Location: Fairmont, WV
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Posted: 03 Mar 2011 at 3:59pm |
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Jay, if I am right, the terminal closest to the front (knob) goes to the Field (F) on the generator. The connector in the rear goes to the head and tail lights. If there is a resistor on the switch, its output goes to the Ammeter, If the resistor is external, the middle terminal goes to the resister. HTH, Dave
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mdm1
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Onalaska, WI
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Posted: 03 Mar 2011 at 4:01pm |
tech pic Check this link out. Mike
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Everything is impossible until someone does it! WD45-trip loader 1947 c w/woods belly mower, 1939 B, #3 sickle mower 1944 B, 2 1948 G's. Misc other equipment that my wife calls JUNK!
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Dave Richards (WV)
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Posted: 03 Mar 2011 at 4:12pm |
Edited by Dave Richards (WV) - 03 Mar 2011 at 4:16pm
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Lance/SC
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Location: Lexington, SC
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Posted: 03 Mar 2011 at 4:20pm |
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Does the 6 volt positive ground G wire up the same as a CA with a 6 volt pos. ground system?
Edited by Lance/SC - 03 Mar 2011 at 4:24pm
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Roddo
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Joined: 16 Jul 2010
Location: Brant, Ontario
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Posted: 03 Mar 2011 at 7:47pm |
The diagram does a bad job of showing it, but the wire from the F terminal on the generator is a GROUND, not power. Mix it up and it wont charge. My generator got pretty hot too, but I never left it long. Learn from my mistake Jay. Also, a good read before you dive in: http://dueyschutter.freeservers.com/photo5.html
Edited by Roddo - 03 Mar 2011 at 7:53pm
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Dave(inMA)
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Posted: 03 Mar 2011 at 8:43pm |
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The 6v pos ground wiring on the G and the CA would be the same...
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WC, CA, D14, WD45
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CTuckerNWIL
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: NW Illinois
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Posted: 03 Mar 2011 at 8:53pm |
 Roddo wrote:
The diagram does a bad job of showing it, but the wire from the F terminal on the generator is a GROUND, not power. Mix it up and it wont charge. My generator got pretty hot too, but I never left it long. Learn from my mistake Jay.
Also, a good read before you dive in: http://dueyschutter.freeservers.com/photo5.html
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So the light switch has to be grounded I take it. That way it grounds through the resistor for low charge and direct ground for full charge?
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Roddo
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Posted: 03 Mar 2011 at 10:00pm |
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You got it
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jaybmiller
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Location: Greensville,Ont
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Posted: 04 Mar 2011 at 7:37am |
Ok, hopefully the picture will help...
Looking at the 'bottom' of the switch, with the knob at 3 o'clock....
bolt at 12 o'clock, going to fuse is 'B'....from ammeter from battery ?
bolt at 1 o'clock, is labelled 'H',goes ?
bolt at 3 o'clock, other side of fuse(to load), tied to bolt at 9 o'clock, goes ?
bolt at 5 o'clock,is labelled 'R',tied to bolt at 6 o'clock,goes ?
bolt at 10 o'clock, is labelled 'S', goes ?
The field wiring is easy, though I need a new resistor(3 ohms, 7 watts),no big deal.
After 'ringing' out the switch I can't find the lights switch contacts,so maybe it's 'burned' out internally.I have another switch yet to be tested.I know some of the connections weren't used.
Hopefully someone can trace the wires for me,once I get it working right, I'll post pretty picture and tesxt of what goes where.Sure wish I hadn't 'misplaced' my scribbles from the first G....
thanks
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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CTuckerNWIL
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Location: NW Illinois
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Posted: 04 Mar 2011 at 8:11pm |
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I can't be much help looking at your picture but the power for the lights should go through the fuse.
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RTcat
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Joined: 05 Mar 2010
Location: South Cntrl Wi
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Posted: 18 Apr 2011 at 6:49am |
Jay,
Must be ESP(N) in the air as I was doing the same thing this weekend, trying to get the lights on my G to work! Using terminals 3 and 9 will have your lights on all the time I found as they have a constant 6 V while running, regardless of what poisition the switch is in.
I inherited my G from my late Grandmother. It was unmolested and origional as far as I can tell. I recently had the motor overhauld by the local tracor dealer and had a new wiring harnes installed. Let me double check, but I think 1:00 is where my front light is hooked up. However, I have no juice at the light when the knob is pulled half way out. I'm thinking my origional switch is bad as far as operating the lights are concerned. The switch however still correctly changes the load on the generator as the tractor rpm's slightly change and the amp needle moves when the swithch is pulled out halfway and all the way.
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CTuckerNWIL
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Posted: 18 Apr 2011 at 7:30am |
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RTcat, is your fuse burned out?
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Ted J
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Posted: 18 Apr 2011 at 7:35am |
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When all is said and done, COPY all info and pictures to you computer!! Put it into an Allis-Chalmers folder and you won't have to be looking for scraps of paper anymore. LOL Been There, Done That...and still learning...
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"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17
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Steve in NJ
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Andover, NJ
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Posted: 18 Apr 2011 at 7:46am |
All the 6V systems operate the same. On the old Delco Remy round switch itself, the "S" terminal on the switch takes care of the headlights & tail. The other wire that runs off the switch is the grounding terminal (field) which utilizes the extra leg off the resistor. This increases or decreases the ground as you pull the switch out. When the switch is all the way in, your charging circuit runs through the 3 ohm resistor at the bottom of the switch. Pull the switch out to the second position, you by-pass the resistor (increase the ground-full field) and Headlights come on and full charge should occur on the Ammeter. Third position- no Headlights/full charge or full field continues. Just don't leave it out and forget bout' it. You'll boil the battery. The fuse on the tower takes care of the Headlight/tail circuits. Off the minus side of the Ammeter is your Battery feed to the fuse tower. Now, make sure that switch is grounded well in the box. Its a self-grounding switch, and things will not operate without it being grounded correctly. I always tell our customer's to run a little aux. wire off the #10 machine screw that holds the switch in the box to the Pos. ground cable at the Battery. This ensures the switch is grounded, and doesn't just rely on the box for the grounding chores. You should be good to go. If you need a switch, I rebuild them, and have an exchange program on them. I make the internal parts for them also... HTH
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RTcat
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Posted: 18 Apr 2011 at 9:47am |
CTuckerNWIL wrote:
RTcat, is your fuse burned out? |
It doesn't appear to be burnt out, plus I've got juice coming out of the two terminals connected to the post the fuse is protecting.
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RTcat
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Posted: 18 Apr 2011 at 9:53am |
Steve in NJ wrote:
All the 6V systems operate the same. On the old Delco Remy round switch itself, the "S" terminal on the switch takes care of the headlights & tail. The other wire that runs off the switch is the grounding terminal (field) which utilizes the extra leg off the resistor. This increases or decreases the ground as you pull the switch out. When the switch is all the way in, your charging circuit runs through the 3 ohm resistor at the bottom of the switch. Pull the switch out to the second position, you by-pass the resistor (increase the ground-full field) and Headlights come on and full charge should occur on the Ammeter. Third position- no Headlights/full charge or full field continues. Just don't leave it out and forget bout' it. You'll boil the battery. The fuse on the tower takes care of the Headlight/tail circuits. Off the minus side of the Ammeter is your Battery feed to the fuse tower. Now, make sure that switch is grounded well in the box. Its a self-grounding switch, and things will not operate without it being grounded correctly. I always tell our customer's to run a little aux. wire off the #10 machine screw that holds the switch in the box to the Pos. ground cable at the Battery. This ensures the switch is grounded, and doesn't just rely on the box for the grounding chores. You should be good to go. If you need a switch, I rebuild them, and have an exchange program on them. I make the internal parts for them also... HTH
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Steve, thanks for the info! I'm wondering if my light wire is connected to the wrong terminal. Looking at the picture above, I can't remember from memory which terminal my light wire is connected to.
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RTcat
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Posted: 20 May 2011 at 7:40am |
Just want to take a second and let everyone know the quality job "Steve" in New Jersery did on my G light switch. Switch looks like it just came out of the factory. Works great also as I now have 6 volts to my light wires.
I also purchased his wire harness kit for my G which I'll install this winter. Everything is labeled well and individually packaged, with instructions.
Thanks Steve!
David
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Steve in NJ
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Posted: 20 May 2011 at 8:09am |
Thank You Dave! We appreciate the business! Glad we could help! If you have any other electrical questions, be glad to walk you or anyone else through it. I enjoy helping folks out with their wiring whoa's and charging delema's...
Steve@B&B
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