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bobkyllo 
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Joined: 14 Sep 2009
Location: minnesota
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 Topic: need some help with my wd45
Posted: 12 Dec 2010 at 3:35pm |
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well guys the shop is heated so i figure i would get the allis 45 going. well the engine is stuck i knew that from the begining. so here is the question. how can i get the pistons out. i have the caps off and penetrant in the cylinders. i am sure i will need new sleeves, pistons, and rings so if i ruin them no problem. what i have tried is putting a jack under the tractor and run a piece of metal up in the cylinder from the under side. then i jacked it up but that dont seem to be working. what else do you guys suggest
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CTuckerNWIL
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: NW Illinois
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Posted: 12 Dec 2010 at 4:19pm |
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Push the sleeve and piston out as one piece. Probably have to make a pusher for the sleeve with a notch in it to clear the rod, then extend it with a piece of pipe, add a heavy plate to the bottom of the pipe and strike it with something heavy. The next thing is to have the block upside down resting on some oak 4x4's or whatever, but all setting on some solid concrete or the shock won't be enough no matter how big the hammer.
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R Aiken
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: wc Ohio
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Posted: 12 Dec 2010 at 4:21pm |
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A 10 to 20 pound sledge hammer, swong by a big strong guy, at the end of your steel bar should do it. Un bolt the rods and becarefull not to hit the crankshaft.
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Don(MO)
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Bates City MO.
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Posted: 12 Dec 2010 at 6:32pm |
I have placed a long pipe wrench on the hand crank then put a long (6') pipe over the pipe wrench them hung three hundred pounds on the end of the pipe go off and just leave it alone in a week or so the the weights pipe and pipe wrench will be laying on the floor and the engine will turn over. This setup as worked for me three times and I'm not all wore out from all the beating on the sleeves. lol
I know I'm just lazy!!! lmao
If you want to get them out faster just take them out like Charlie and Rich said.
Don
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3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.
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ChuckLuedtkeSEWI
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Location: Jackson, WI
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Posted: 12 Dec 2010 at 7:13pm |
Have you pulled the head off and looked to see how stuck it looks? I had one engine that was stuck and I took the head off, and filled each cylinder with half ATF, half acetone. After about two weeks, it started working past the rings. Then I would fill it back up and let it drain. Got to the point where it would drain out overnite. Once it got to that point, I put a pipewrench on the handcrank and tugged and it popped loose. Put it all back together and she ran well and didn't smoke much at the beginning to my suprise. I also jacked up one tire and put the tractor in gear and then each time I filled it up and checked on it, I would rock the tire back and forth a few times.
I have done stuck pistons/sleeves before and the only good way I found was to take the engine out, put it on the framerails sideways making sure that each piston sleeve is not on a framerail and then beat on it with a oak block and a big hammer. The few times I tried jacking it up, all I did was lift the tractor, and I could never swing from the bottom up worth a crap.
Someone else recommended once heating up each sleeve piston really good and then try pushing or hammering out. Seems the heat will help to break the rust bond. I have never had one that stuck that I was trying to save yet.
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1955 WD45 diesel 203322 was my dad's tractor, 1966 D15 23530, 1961 HD3 Crawler 1918, 1966 D17 IV 83495, 1937 WC 41255, 1962 D19 6221
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bobkyllo
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Posted: 12 Dec 2010 at 8:17pm |
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the motor is still in the tractor so the hitting it seems a touch difficult. the head is off and the connecting rod caps are off. if i heat the sleeve that wont melt the o ring to the block will it? how about hurt the block?
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CTuckerNWIL
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Location: NW Illinois
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Posted: 12 Dec 2010 at 8:37pm |
Pull the engine and remove the crank. If you are going to put new sleeves and pistons in, it would be a waste unless you check out the crank and bearings.
Heat will probably mess up the o-rings, but with new sleeves come new o-rings and you need to hand sand the block to clean and smooth things out anyway.
Edited by CTuckerNWIL - 12 Dec 2010 at 8:39pm
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ChuckLuedtkeSEWI
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Location: Jackson, WI
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Posted: 12 Dec 2010 at 8:58pm |
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And if you're really going to town, and have a local engine shop, have them clean the block once it's all dissassembled. I had that done on a block once and man was that worth the money. It looked like a clean plate coming out of the dishwasher. All the grease, grime, gunk and paint were gone.
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1955 WD45 diesel 203322 was my dad's tractor, 1966 D15 23530, 1961 HD3 Crawler 1918, 1966 D17 IV 83495, 1937 WC 41255, 1962 D19 6221
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bobkyllo
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Posted: 12 Dec 2010 at 9:05pm |
the crank and bearings should be fine still. dad had the tractor overhauled about 2 years before he quit farming. he used it to plant 50 acres a year so i wouldnt think there would be much wear on the bearings. well the year he quit farming he just walked away from everything put the tractor in the shed that leaked water. so i am figuring that water got in the motor and stuck the motor. the oil that come out looked good not watery. the journals that i can see look good
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