| Author |
 Topic Search  Topic Options
|
DSeries4 
Orange Level
Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Ontario, Canada
Points: 7402
|
 Post Options
 Thanks(0)
 Quote  Reply
 Topic: D14 front support
Posted: 08 Feb 2025 at 8:54am |
I am replacing the seals and O rings on my power steering cylinder on my 59 D14. The shims (items 19 and 20 below) for the bottom shaft retainer and small square side cover appear to have paper gaskets between the shims, but the parts manual does not show any sign of them. On second thought, maybe the shims originally had these gaskets glued to them to begin with?
The shims looks good, but the gaskets are looking pretty tattered. Do I have to buy new shims that have seals on them?
Thanks for any feedback!
|
|
'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
|
 |
|
Sponsored Links
|
|
|
Alvin M
Orange Level
Joined: 24 Jun 2018
Location: PA
Points: 790
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 08 Feb 2025 at 9:26am |
|
70235350 is a paper shim
|
|
DSeries4
Orange Level
Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Ontario, Canada
Points: 7402
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 08 Feb 2025 at 9:38am |
|
Is that also the case for items 26 and 27 for the rack adjusting block?
|
|
'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
|
|
AC720Man
Orange Level
Joined: 10 Oct 2016
Location: Shenandoah, Va
Points: 5080
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 08 Feb 2025 at 9:52am |
|
I just did this project a few weeks ago on my D14. They are a very thin paper gasket, no sealant used. I carefully took mine apart keeping the orientation of all shims(paper and metal) to make sure they went back as they came off. My paper shims were still in good condition. I have no leaks, seams odd not to apply sealant but my IT manual did not mention it and it had none from the factory. SLI said they were available if I needed them. The rack block has them also.
Edited by AC720Man - 08 Feb 2025 at 9:53am
|
|
1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
|
|
AC720Man
Orange Level
Joined: 10 Oct 2016
Location: Shenandoah, Va
Points: 5080
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 08 Feb 2025 at 10:06am |
|
I’m curious, did you remove your entire front support or are you doing this in frame by removing the right hand side rail? I was adding power steering to mine so I had to remove my entire front support. If your just repairing the ram, supposedly you only need to remove the side rail, remove the lines, remove the rack block, pull the rack away from the idler gear and remove the ram to repair. On mine there is no way that can be done. There is not enough clearance to slide it past the idler gear. Sounds like you have removed the entire front support or are you attempting to do this upside down while it’s still mounted to the frame?
|
|
1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
|
|
DSeries4
Orange Level
Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Ontario, Canada
Points: 7402
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 08 Feb 2025 at 10:09am |
 AC720Man wrote:
I’m curious, did you remove your entire front support or are you doing this in frame by removing the right hand side rail? I was adding power steering to mine so I had to remove my entire front support. If your just repairing the ram, supposedly you only need to remove the side rail, remove the lines, remove the rack block, pull the rack away from the idler gear and remove the ram to repair. On mine there is no way that can be done. There is not enough clearance to slide it past the idler gear. Sounds like you have removed the entire front support or are you attempting to do this upside down while it’s still mounted to the frame? |
I removed the whole front casting and set it on the bench to have good access to everything.
|
|
'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
|
|
AC720Man
Orange Level
Joined: 10 Oct 2016
Location: Shenandoah, Va
Points: 5080
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 08 Feb 2025 at 3:37pm |
|
For sure the best way to do it, you can get in there and really clean the front support after removing the sector gear to check the bearings. It made me realize how good the engineers and machinists were back then. For instance making 1 front support that would either support manual or PS. Only a needle bearing, and an idler gear were needed to be added along with the PS components to go from manual to PS front support. Good luck, not a difficult job. I enjoyed adding PS to mine, always fun learning how these ole girls are built. They are so reliable ole tractors that major repairs don’t show up until 60 years later, can’t say that about many products.
Edited by AC720Man - 08 Feb 2025 at 3:41pm
|
|
1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
|
|
