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Mattman 
Silver Level
Joined: 20 Dec 2012
Location: Plover, WI
Points: 215
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 Topic: Aluminum radiators
Posted: 01 Jan 2025 at 7:59am |
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Thinking about purchasing an aluminum radiator for my 7040 off EBay. I’m assuming it’s made in a 3rd world country which is too bad. I purchased one for my 31 model A pickup with good results. Just wondering if anyone tried one on a 7000 series and is willing to offer an opinion. Happy new year!
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DSeries4
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Ontario, Canada
Points: 7433
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Posted: 01 Jan 2025 at 8:28am |
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Get your old one recored locally - it will be good for another 50 years. If there is a problem, they will stand behind their work. E-bay won't. I don't see the need for an aluminum radiator either.
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'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
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PaulB
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Rocky Ridge Md
Points: 4928
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Posted: 01 Jan 2025 at 9:05am |
I agree STAY away from FLEABAY for anything. No matter what it's buyer beware.
I wouldn't know about what you might get for a 7040 radiator. Although I did get an aluminum radiator (not form Fleabay) that was to fit a B,C,CA primarily for the loss of weight for the CA I was pulling then. The workmanship of the radiator was very good, however somewhere in the engineering of changing the dimensions in inches to the workers millimeters something was lost, the fit was terrible. There are much better radiators available for the same money or even less.
I would have concerns about and aluminum radiator in a field tractor.
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If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY
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ekjdm14
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Joined: 20 Aug 2024
Location: Manchester UK
Points: 716
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Posted: 01 Jan 2025 at 9:36am |
Would agree stay away from aluminum radiators for a tractor that will see the field again. If you poke a hole in it or stress crack it there's no possibility of a soldered repair, granted "BARS leaks" or black pepper could get you out of a bind still but they're only a temporary fix.
Don't think there's any reason to go with aluminum either, save for weight savings/making shiny. The original radiator recored by a good shop will cool plenty enough.
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plummerscarin
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Joined: 22 Jun 2015
Location: ia
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Posted: 01 Jan 2025 at 9:50am |
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I've had 2 7XXX radiators recored. No regrets.
If you have a good shop nearby, I'd go that route.
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randy
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Illinois
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Posted: 01 Jan 2025 at 10:39am |
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I think all the newer tractors have aluminum rads? My 2003 New Holland TG230 is aluminum. Had to take it out to clean it out last year. Previous owner had used a power washer to clean it out, did a bad job washing it out. Hard to find a radiator shop that would clean one.
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CA WD WD45 D17 D17 Diesel 7060 8050 8070
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randy
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Location: Illinois
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Posted: 01 Jan 2025 at 10:40am |
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And yes, i would only trust one from a reputable local radiator shop
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CA WD WD45 D17 D17 Diesel 7060 8050 8070
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lentsch
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Joined: 10 Feb 2011
Location: Glencoe,Mn.
Points: 228
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Posted: 01 Jan 2025 at 11:02am |
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Bought a new radiator for my 7060 from Northern, ( Willmar, Mn.) been good so far and about the same cost as a local shop quoted for a recore.
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WD,D15,190XT,7000,8010x2,7060,8070
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ekjdm14
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Joined: 20 Aug 2024
Location: Manchester UK
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Posted: 01 Jan 2025 at 2:32pm |
 randy wrote:
I think all the newer tractors have aluminum rads? My 2003 New Holland TG230 is aluminum. Had to take it out to clean it out last year. Previous owner had used a power washer to clean it out, did a bad job washing it out. Hard to find a radiator shop that would clean one. |
Most likely they do now, less vibration and better protection on modern units not to mention the cost saving for manufacturers.
The most effective and inherently repairable rads are still copper/brass. Not saying alu wouldn't work, but longer term more likely to need replacement or at very least taken in for any repairs that could otherwise be done by "Joe Blow" with a blow torch & some patience.
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Steve in NJ
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Andover, NJ
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Posted: 03 Jan 2025 at 10:37am |
My Radiator man always used to say Aluminum Radiators suck. They always fracture in the corners. I've had a couple of em' in my hotrods, and I had one do just that. Start leaking in one of the corners. Coarse, when I took it out and had him fix it, he was always like "see I told ya so". I would be a little nervous about sticking one of those in a working Tractor unless they make em' much better now than they did years back. I have one in my 26' T coupe right now, and so far so good. I better not say anything. I'll probably go out to the barn and they'll be a Green puddle under the car.... LOL!
Steve@B&B
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39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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DrAllis
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Posted: 03 Jan 2025 at 10:54am |
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I think this request is going in a "pulling" tractor. I don't know why he feels the need for an aluminum radiator in a tractor that is going to pull in a weight class that doesn't need to lose weight in that area. But, it's his money.
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Tbone95
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Joined: 31 Aug 2012
Location: Michigan
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Posted: 03 Jan 2025 at 6:16pm |
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I have a 34 year old tractor with an aluminum radiator, used a LOT, no radiator problems ever….probably will wish I hadn’t said that.
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DougG
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Location: Mo
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Posted: 05 Jan 2025 at 5:32am |
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Hard to find a good radiator shop around any more- the ones I see Id go for it, deffinetly cheap enough
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Ray54
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Posted: 05 Jan 2025 at 6:12pm |
It just depends on million little things. Still running 2 Ford Ranger pickups 98 and 2000. I think 3 cheap aluminum radiators replacements on the pare. So a total of 5 to get them to about 600,000 miles on the pare. But at NAPA it was $120 a piece (pre covid) and it was there the next morning.
Have New Holland 912 swather with Ford strait 6 gas engine, about a 1970 model. It needed a new radiator. No local radiator man, so sent if off $1400 to recore it, or over 2000 for a new one.  If only I had thought  , stack 2 of the cheap aluminum ones in there. 
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Steve in NJ
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Andover, NJ
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Posted: 05 Jan 2025 at 7:51pm |
Doug is right. It's tough to find a good Radiator man anymore. The two guys that I had were a little older than me, and both of em' retired. That's why I went for an Aluminum unit for my 26 T' Coupe hotrod. We'll see how long I go with it. It's built for a small block Chebby, so it should keep the 4 banger Mercruiser engine cool.... Steve@B&B
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39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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Chananain
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Joined: 08 Sep 2021
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Posted: 11 hours 7 minutes ago at 5:48am |
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I put an aluminum one in my WD45 a few years back and it's been holding up great. Fit was decent, just had to tweak the mounting holes a little bit.
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Codger
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Posted: 9 hours 36 minutes ago at 7:19am |
There are different grades and quality of aluminum for both charge air coolers, and radiators. Ebay, Amazon, and the like are not the place to purchase and expect decent life expectancy. You get what you pay for in this arena. You want quality, you got to pay for it.
Try these folks. They used to do custom work and their work is top shelf. Not the cheapest by far, but the products do hold up well and they will stand behind it:
Edited by Codger - 9 hours 35 minutes ago at 7:20am
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That's All Folks!
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RedHeeler79
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Posted: 7 hours 30 minutes ago at 9:25am |
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So far I have had good luck with Northern brand. Doesn’t fit exactly like original, but pretty well. Would prefer re-coring, but if i have to replace, I would buy Northern again.
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JC-WI
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Location: wisconsin
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Posted: 5 hours 39 minutes ago at 11:16am |
griffon radiator link did not work. try this link. http://griffinradiator.com/
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He who says there is no evil has already deceived himself
The truth is the truth, sugar coated or not. Trawler II says, "Remember that."
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