| Author |
 Topic Search  Topic Options
|
bleeds orange 
Orange Level
Joined: 11 Sep 2012
Location: mt. vision, ny
Points: 685
|
 Post Options
 Thanks(0)
 Quote  Reply
 Topic: Balancing n6 rotor
Posted: 06 Nov 2024 at 1:25am |
|
Could someone point me in the right direction on how to balance my rotor at home? Doing just new thresher bars, not the separator bars they are ok. Plus I'm going to be adding 2 more paddles on discharge end. Thanks cory
|
 |
|
Sponsored Links
|
|
|
DrAllis
Orange Level Access
Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Points: 20520
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 06 Nov 2024 at 6:19am |
|
I've changed a lot of parts on those rotors over the decades and never once balanced one or ever thought one needed balancing. We only do corn and soybeans and those desired threshing speeds were never an issue. Anyway, have the rotor installed in the cage and leave the gearbox in NEUTRAL and keep rolling it around and figure out if there is a heavy spot or not and add weights to spiders to make the heavy spot heavy directly opposite where it is.
|
|
darrel in ND
Orange Level
Joined: 22 Nov 2009
Location: Hebron, ND
Points: 8634
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 06 Nov 2024 at 6:34am |
|
If you change the cylinder bars in sets of two, the way they come, and install each set directly across from each other on the rotor, balancing shouldn't be necessary. Think that I only ever balanced one in my life, probably because someone replaced bars randomly instead of in sets. If I remember right, we put some sort of pilot shaft(probably old shaft out of a rotor drive gearbox) into the drive coupler, and found a bearing to fit on it. Then had the existing bearing on the other end. Propped both bearings up on jackstands, and spin it, ad weight to the opposite side of the heavy side. Repeat process until there is no longer a heavy side.
Darrel
|
|
SteveM C/IL
Orange Level Access
Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Shelbyville IL
Points: 8241
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 07 Nov 2024 at 6:29pm |
|
My 62 will shake some when running full speed in high working the grease in the cam drive but at can and bean speed it's fine.
|
|
bleeds orange
Orange Level
Joined: 11 Sep 2012
Location: mt. vision, ny
Points: 685
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 07 Nov 2024 at 6:35pm |
|
Thanks guys. Hopefully this weekend will be getting rotor back in and make sure its balanced. Just received new parts today. I did get my 4' unload auger extension almost finished aswell.
|
|
DrAllis
Orange Level Access
Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Points: 20520
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 07 Nov 2024 at 6:57pm |
|
Remove the end of the auger swing cylinder. Drop inside the cylinder a black pipe coupling about 2+ inches long and slightly smaller diameter than the cylinders barrel. This will raise up the unloader about 18 inches in height when swung out. I'll bet I've done 50 like that.
|
|
Dirt Farmer
Silver Level Access
Joined: 15 Sep 2020
Location: Illinois
Points: 354
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 07 Nov 2024 at 10:00pm |
|
Question for Dr Allis, will the 2 inch drop in trick for the unload cylinder work on an R62 as well since it's not chain linked, just looking for a simple trick to raise my auger to clear a grain cart. I always appreciate your professional insight and vast knowledge. Thanks
|
|
DrAllis
Orange Level Access
Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Points: 20520
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 07 Nov 2024 at 10:11pm |
|
No. Only the old style swivel. Buy or make yourself a long SPOUT like the old N-7's had. That is a HUGE improvement because it sits flatter and gets you out away from the wagons side more than a foot.
|
|
