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wjohn 
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Joined: 19 Jan 2010
Location: KS
Points: 1913
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 Topic: 1954 Roto-Baler
Posted: 25 Feb 2024 at 10:04pm |
I've always wanted a Roto-Baler. What do I need one for? Not much, but maybe I can put up a few straw and hay bales to have handy. This one dates to 1954 and is going to be further down on the project list for now. The belts are trash.
The cheapest belts I can find look to be about $700. Two questions: 1. Are there any specific expensive/difficult-to-repair trouble spots with these that I need to check before I drop $700 on belts? I will be sure to make sure everything is freed up first including the brake drum. I'm surprised how many things do still turn freely. 2. The rubber on the press rolls is old and cracking. Is the main way to address this to send them out to a company that redoes the rubber (I'm thinking of companies that do crimper rolls for mower/conditioners)? Or, would you skip that for now?
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1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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PaulB
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Rocky Ridge Md
Points: 4665
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Posted: 26 Feb 2024 at 6:33am |
From my experience with Roto-Balers the rubber parts have the most deterioration. If you were to find a NOS press roller, you'd be surprised how worn down the one on your baler is. When in use the twine knife MUST be razor sharp. Also the proper tension of all the springs is needed for correct timing on all the adjustments, just using cheap hardware store springs will give you no end to grief if they aren't close to the proper size and tension. The latch plates on the roll arms must have good shape edges to consistently latch every time. At one time Gary Agrisom was selling a spring kit and a new knife. He may not be diong that any more. As finding good Sisal twine was getting nearly impossible, I made a larger twine can and tightened the twine tension and was using plastic 20,000/110 large round baler twine. However finding good plastic twine can also be a challenge. I had some that didn't cut well.
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If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY
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Lon(MN)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Elk River,MN
Points: 1955
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Posted: 26 Feb 2024 at 6:42am |
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They survive pretty well. I suspect you would need a spring kit. Free up all the moving parts. Lots of these balers still out there. Start shopping for a better press roll. The biggest problem point are the belts. Failed due to age.
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http://lonsallischalmers.com
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Lars(wi)
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Joined: 14 Sep 2009
Location: Permian Basin
Points: 7074
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Posted: 26 Feb 2024 at 9:36am |
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Dad, and Grandpa always said the Roto-Baler made the best quality baled feed, best tractor match to operate a Roto-Baler was the CA. Just enough hp you could tell by the engine sound on how ‘tough’ the hay was. Adjustments were made as the day went on, by listening to sound of the CA engine. Proper lubrication and adjustments were paramount for operation. One point Grandpa always emphasized, was never ‘store’ a Roto-Baler in the ‘big blue shed’. Unless you are actively using a Roto-Baler, park it inside.
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I tried to follow the science, but it was not there. I then followed the money, and that’s where I found the science.
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Lon(MN)
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Posted: 26 Feb 2024 at 1:03pm |
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I saw a baler for sale in Missouri FB market place. Looked real nice. A road trip would be planned if I was looking for a nice baler. These balers come apart easy and can fit on a car hauler.
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http://lonsallischalmers.com
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dr p
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Joined: 24 Feb 2019
Location: new york
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Posted: 26 Feb 2024 at 5:59pm |
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I make a couple thousand roto bales every year. My first question would be " HAVE YOU LOST YOUR MIND" but if you still want to do it, i think i might pass on that one. Your looking at over a grand in belts to start. The guys are correct, they come apart pretty easy to put on a trailer and the cost of buying a good one and a weathered one is not enough to justify trying to save a couple of bucks. Mack was invaluable in helping me with mine. Rip
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wjohn
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Location: KS
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Posted: 26 Feb 2024 at 10:45pm |
I was able to find Mr. Agrimson's site and he still shows the spring/knife kit listed. About all of those smaller springs are broken and rewired on this baler. I'll add that along with belts.
I need to get a shed built for this and the All-Crop before I put any nice parts on them, for sure. I'd feel bad buying a nice one now only for it to sit outside. $50 ones, I don't feel so bad about. If a nice one popped up locally I'd have a hard time passing on it, though.
dr p do you feed all of those bales to your own livestock? I am probably weird (definitely weird, I guess, if I bought a Roto Baler) but I look at the belts like I look at anything that needs tires - I don't mind putting some money into them and knowing what I get will be in good shape and last for a long time. A lot of the "nice" Roto Balers I see have belts that initially look good from a distance but are old, worn, and stretched to different lengths. $700 was the cheapest I can find belts for online.
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1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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wjohn
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Joined: 19 Jan 2010
Location: KS
Points: 1913
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Posted: 26 Feb 2024 at 10:46pm |
 Lon(MN) wrote:
I saw a baler for sale in Missouri FB market place. Looked real nice. A road trip would be planned if I was looking for a nice baler. These balers come apart easy and can fit on a car hauler. |
I saw that one too. There are still nice ones out there under a roof if you're willing to travel.
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1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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dr p
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Posted: 27 Feb 2024 at 6:17am |
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I do feed them to my Guernseys. I also sell some to a couple of big dairyman my area. They like them for cows that go off feed. I have found the cows do like them more than small square bales. I isually buy belts from American belting company in Texas. Nice people, even if they talk funny
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wjohn
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Posted: 27 Feb 2024 at 10:15pm |
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You must have some pretty happy cows then.
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1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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wjohn
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Posted: 27 Feb 2024 at 10:25pm |
A few more pics - the front press roll is the one that is most obviously rough. I found a few places that recondition these but I haven't called yet to see what that costs.
The main drive roller has been rubbing for a long time against the LH side and has grooved the bracket right next to it.
RH Side has a decent gap so I'm guessing something is worn out in between. Maybe I can shim or adjust it back into center.
PaulB here are the pics I could get of the latch plates (learned what those were today - thanks for highlighting that I should check them). They seem to have sharp edges still but I may need to pry them open to fully inspect them? LH: RH:
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1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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PaulB
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Rocky Ridge Md
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Posted: 28 Feb 2024 at 6:33am |
Opening the rear belts is easy when you remove one end of the large springs at the rear and trip the latches. When you contact Gary Agrisom see if he still has any of the repro aftermarket twine wrap guards still available. This kept the twine from contact with the press roll until the twine arm moved a bit.
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If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY
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