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Linck182 
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Joined: 27 Dec 2023
Location: Kansas
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 Topic: C carburetor replacement
Posted: 27 Dec 2023 at 12:27pm |
Anyone used one of these to replace a carb? I’ve taken mine off a few times and cleaned everything but still leaks fuel out the front. Engine was just broke free last weekend and cleaned the points up and got spark at all 4 plugs. Timed everything back up but seems as though fuel is my issue now. 
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PaulB
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Rocky Ridge Md
Points: 4665
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Posted: 27 Dec 2023 at 12:43pm |
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the throttle arm is wrong for an Allis Chalmers with a small block (B,C,CA,RC,116.125,138,149 or 160 engines). Do some research for the correct carburetor for what you are working on.
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If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY
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steve(ill)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: illinois
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Posted: 27 Dec 2023 at 12:45pm |
YES.. I installed on on a "B" last summer.. Had to take the throttle arm off and turn it upward and then solder back to the shaft. You got to make sure it does not drag the side of the block when mounted... Real close in that area... Choke arm was OK, but needed adaptor to screw the push / pull rod to the arm..
The B/ C motor is 125 cubic inches. My though was if you find a "aftermarket" that is for a 120- 135 inch motor it should be " close" .... that seemed to work.... There are a few variations of the aftermarket carb.. look close.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 27 Dec 2023 at 12:49pm |
This is the one that i started with...
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 27 Dec 2023 at 12:52pm |
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You know the DISTANCE from the governor cross shaft behind the radiator, to the carb throttle arm has to be set RIGHT for the governor to work... Your not going to have the NEW ARM exactly where the OLD ARM was located, so the ROD to the governor cross shaft will have to be BENT to get the proper operation.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Linck182
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Posted: 27 Dec 2023 at 1:35pm |
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Seems pretty straight forward, thanks for the info! If nothing else I’ll box it up and send it back. But 35 vs 400 is worth a try.
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 27 Dec 2023 at 1:37pm |
It works... just not PLUG and PLAY... If your willing to invest a couple hours for install, then adjustments, it seems to work fine..
the Farmall Carb you showed is for a 113 cubic inch motor.. about 10% smaller displacement than the "C"..... I choose one that was 10% BIGGER than the "C".... Probably same carb with a slightly bigger main jet, etc...
Edited by steve(ill) - 27 Dec 2023 at 1:40pm
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Steve in NJ
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Andover, NJ
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Posted: 27 Dec 2023 at 1:47pm |
I offer Carburetor rebuilding services if interested. Most Marvels or Zeniths that don't need any throttle bore repairs usually runs between $175-$250. completely done which includes the Carb kit. Steve@B&B
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39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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Linck182
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Posted: 27 Dec 2023 at 1:49pm |
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I don’t mind tinkering, this is my 3rd ac. Still have 3 left to rescue after this one. But this is the first time that some carb cleaner or some light taps with the pliers didn’t fix my carb issue.
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Linck182
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Posted: 27 Dec 2023 at 1:52pm |
 Steve in NJ wrote:
I offer Carburetor rebuilding services if interested. Most Marvels or Zeniths that don't need any throttle bore repairs usually runs between $175-$250. completely done which includes the Carb kit. Steve@B&B
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I’ll keep that in mind Steve, thank you. I’m pretty new to the ac world. My grandpa had a dealership where I grew up. And now that I’m back on the family farm I’ve started to collect some. 3 d17s series 1-2-3, wd-45, 2 ac’s, and this c I’m currently on.
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Linck182
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Posted: 27 Dec 2023 at 1:55pm |
steve(ill) wrote:
It works... just not PLUG and PLAY... If your willing to invest a couple hours for install, then adjustments, it seems to work fine..
the Farmall Carb you showed is for a 113 cubic inch motor.. about 10% smaller displacement than the "C"..... I choose one that was 10% BIGGER than the "C".... Probably same carb with a slightly bigger main jet, etc... |
I think I’ll go with the one you shared, looks a little easier to “modify”. Thanks again!
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Linck182
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Posted: 08 Jan 2024 at 6:12pm |
steve(ill) wrote:
This is the one that i started with...
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How did you remove the arm to solder back in the up position? Is it just soldered on? Looks press riveted or something.
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steve(ill)
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Location: illinois
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Posted: 08 Jan 2024 at 6:27pm |
Yes, the arm has a square hole in it and fits over the square end of the shaft.. shaft sticks thru 1/16 inch and they MUSHROOM the end to hold it on... I just ground off the mushroom and pulled the arm off... flipped it over 180 degrees and put a drop of solder on the end...... the arm is not EXACTLY the right angle and not EXACTLY the right length so you have to adjust the governor rod for proper operation...
Another way to do it would be to make a NEW AREM from small strap, ( that is 50% longer).. lay on top of the OLD ARM, but pointing upward, then SOLDER the two together... ... again, dont get too close to the engine block or your arm will drag the block..
Edited by steve(ill) - 08 Jan 2024 at 6:28pm
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 08 Jan 2024 at 6:34pm |
your present carb looks something like this.. THe CLOSER you get the right LENGTH and ANGLE of the arm, the easier it will be to adjust.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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AaronSEIA
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Posted: 09 Jan 2024 at 5:26am |
The guys in a Ford N series forum I'm in play with those Chicom carbs. Most wind up taking them off and finding a good original. Never can get them set right. AaronSEIA
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