Did I go wrong????

PM sent Gemdozer

Since no one else seems to be running the HV7s in their 2-71, does anybody have any good HV6s they want to sell?

just a little more fuel,  shouldnt hurt anything, but if you can stay with same size.

Edited by CAL(KS) - 28 Apr 2022 at 10:10am

Std. timing and install a pyrometer. You are going to be dumping more fuel into that engine against a push and it will smoke more with additional heat in the exhaust. A pyro will help you keep this in check. 

they may be correct if no markings. Most compression rings have a slight taper which goes to the top but not all. 

Great idea! I didn’t think of moving the keyway around.

Oops. Yes keyway. I didn’t catch the autocorrect had changed it.

The forks are in great shape. My problem is the jetway on the long shaft said is worn causing a lot of play.

Anybody got one of these in good shape they are willing to sell???? If so PM me

The scrappers were next in line to get it. It’s still a solid old dozer seems like. If water hadn’t gotten into that one cylinder it would have fired off. I like to save this old iron. It was built in days where things were simple and made to last. You can take a set of wrenches and sockets and work on anything on it. Glad it brought back memories for you.

Edited by COD - 27 Mar 2022 at 6:28pm

Thought about trimming the bearings off but had rather leave them sticking a little past the bores unless it would be an issue. I don’t see where it would be but I’ve never seen an engine with bearings sticking out past the bores.

Dewey , if the bearing OD is the same and will fit in the block... I would think you could take a cutoff wheel and trim some off the bearings "if needed"... maybe OK they way they are.

Got a question. My block serial number is prior to them using the longer cam bearings. Mine are 1-1/8 long and the “newer” blocks are 1-1/2” long cam bearings. The blocks appear to be the same part number and so do the cams (according to the part numbers). The 1-1/8” standard size is made from unobtainium and not available. They make a .015 under bearing for $35 per bearing. Problem is no one around here grinds camshafts. The 1-1/2” wide ones are $11 per bearing and standard size is available. Can I use the 1-1/2” wide ones as long as the oil holes line up? Basically about 1/4” of the bearing will be sticking on the inside of the block past the bore for the cam bearings. The oil holes in the 1-1/2” wide bearings appear to be off center so I think they would line up. I mic’ed my cam bearing journals and they are within spec but I may polish them a little in a jig to spin the cam using a drill and a socket.
     Any thoughts guys?

This is where the block and liners need measured by someone that has the tools and experience with the Detroit engine series. Not being sarcastic or anything of the type but the block bore needs to be known, and round to fit correct liners, then protrusion of the liners etc. More to it than just a guess. Any competent machine shop on diesel engines should be able to measure it up for you to eliminate guesswork.

Found this on PC Industries website. Is this info correct? I don’t have a micrometer large enough to measure the outside diameter of the old sleeves.