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victoryallis 
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Joined: 15 Apr 2010
Location: Ludington mi
Points: 2876
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 Topic: CA brake repair help needed
Posted: 20 Sep 2010 at 8:10pm |
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Worked on the brakes in a CA for a friend of mine. One side has no brakes since the spring is missing on it the other has little at all. We cleaned a bunch of stuff out of housing but didn't try try it after that. What do I need to look for other than a new spring on the side that has it missing. I know the brakes on the C's where not that strong as a rule. The side that has the spring it appears the spring is tensioner is taken all the way up.
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wkpoor
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Joined: 25 Apr 2010
Location: Amanda, OH
Points: 825
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Posted: 21 Sep 2010 at 1:07am |
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I don't think the missing spring has anything to do with no brakes as the spring is what returns the peddles. My guess is if you remove the bands it will become self evident what your problem is.
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victoryallis
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Joined: 15 Apr 2010
Location: Ludington mi
Points: 2876
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Posted: 21 Sep 2010 at 7:35pm |
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What is involved in removing the bands. Since it is not mine I don't have a repair manual for it. If I own it I have a manual for it.
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Rick of HopeIN
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Hope, Indiana
Points: 1324
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Posted: 21 Sep 2010 at 7:44pm |
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repro repair manuals are pretty inexpensive. I think you have to work th bands out fron the top access cover like the B and C. It can be quite a challenge if it has a build of gook under there. I ended up just unbolting the whole housing in both sides of my B to get a clear look the first time and it was probably just as well.
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1951 B, 1937 WC, 1957 D14, -- Thanks and God Bless
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wkpoor
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Joined: 25 Apr 2010
Location: Amanda, OH
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Posted: 22 Sep 2010 at 11:33am |
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Well on a CA you gotta pretty much strip down the back end to get access. Then you'll see how good your luck is trying to drive out the 2 keeper pins from the final housing. After the other small stuff is off or out of the way you can work the bands out by puling them around the drums. When its all done you may need a basket full of parts to put it back together as most stuff you'll either destroy taking it apart or you'll find its all rusted out junk anyhow. Good thing is its all available.
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GregLawlerMinn
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Lawler, Mn
Points: 1226
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Posted: 22 Sep 2010 at 11:39am |
Mice and other small critters use the space in the finals to make nests. The Pinion seals leak tranny fluid into the final and soak into the nests and onto the drake linings.
The brakes can be replaced W/O removing the finals; however, if the pinion seals are leaking; the finals have to be pulled to replace the seals.
Pull the fenders, floor pan, seat, pan/rockshaft support rails and brake linkages. Then remove the brake holding pins using a drift pin and hammer. After the pins and brake adjuster and spring are out, pull the brake shoe out...this may invole some effort, but they will slide out from under the drum. Thoroughly clean the gunk out from final under the brake drum; if there is grease/oil in it; bite the bullet and pull the finals and replace the pinion seals. The brake band can be slide around the brake drum thru the window. Thread a heavy wire around the drum 1st and attach one end to the brake band hole where the adjusted goes in and push/pull to bring the band around the drum. Reinstall the pins, adjuster, and springs. Best to take a few "BarleyPop" breaks during the project.
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What this country needs is more unemployed politicians-and lawyers.
Currently have: 1 D14 and a D15S2.
With new owners: 2Bs,9CAs,1WD,2 D12s,5D14s,3D15S2s, 2D17SIVs,D17D,1D19D;1 Unstyled WC
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Dave(inMA)
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Grafton, MA
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Posted: 22 Sep 2010 at 3:46pm |
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Greg has it right, especially the last suggestion!
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WC, CA, D14, WD45
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Brian Jasper co. Ia
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Prairie City Ia
Points: 10508
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Posted: 22 Sep 2010 at 5:32pm |
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I finally got tired of dropping my back blade for brakes on my CA and put new linings in. The deck has to come off and then if you're lucky, the anchor pins are not seized. Mine weren't so it was an easy job. In the past I had changed all the seals and rebuilt the hand clutch though. I attached a piece of wire to the bands before I pulled them out so the wire was in place ready to go to pull them back in. Having hungry cats around kept the mouse/nest population in check.
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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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B26240
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Joined: 21 Nov 2009
Location: mn
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Posted: 22 Sep 2010 at 6:12pm |
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I agree 100% with Greg, as far as my 2$ brakes are absolutly manditory..... do whatever it takes to make them work !!!
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Bill Long
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Bel Air, MD
Points: 4556
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Posted: 22 Sep 2010 at 8:17pm |
Remember, this is back in the 50's. We had a CA that pulled an orchard spray rig that needed brakes. Remember, the spray caused almost every bolt, nut, pin, and bushing to sieze. This was a fairly new tractor yet it seemed like we needed a wrecking crew to take it appart. Perhaps the hardest was the bolt that held the platform in place. We finally gave up and drilled it and re tapped another bolt. The pins were tight, the bands were froze, and the whole job seemed like a nightmare. Remember, this is a fairly new tractor but that spray made it tough.
I really like the suggestions above. Where were you when we were doing it.
In any event let me wish you the very best of luck!!
Good Luck!
Bill long
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