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School me on an old WD, please

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IBWD MIke View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote IBWD MIke Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: School me on an old WD, please
    Posted: 28 Jun 2021 at 7:40am
The 'little cube' you mention is a friction block, available from many vendors and AGCO. Check the spring, a broken one will let it do what you describe.
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matador View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote matador Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jun 2021 at 11:08am
It needs a little work, but honestly, not much. The ignition switch is the biggest annoyance- it sticks pretty bad, so turning the key to on can be a challenge. That shouldn't be an expensive part though. The one front tire is shot, so that's getting replaced for sure. I may do both depending on what the tire guy comes back with for price- the other one holds air, but it's not in good shape either. The little "cube" thing on the throttle is worn down, so it creeps back to idle. I'll have to come up with something for that. But really, that's really all it needs- pretty much everything seems to work just like it should. The owner even gae it an oil change before it was picked up

We'll be using it on the rake this fall- I found out that you can swing the drawbar side to side and up too, so it can run our pull type rake if we don't need to split rows or the 3 point we use to split windrows- either way it'll work well. This winter, we'll probably put it on our elevator (An Allis Flight Line that you can read about here: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/allischalmers-flight-line-elevator_topic165796.html ). We only use the elevator when we have to load a large truck, but since we're doubling our straw baling this year, that'll probably be more common. Other than that, it'll mostly do little oddjobs- putting in end rows at the start of the year, maybe blade a little, and maybe run a Bush Hog someday. Just little things like that. It'll have a pretty easy life.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jun 2021 at 6:07am
matador,
So now what are the plans for the WD? Put it to work? Or some improvements? You know we want to see whats happening! Was planning to be a rake tractor correct? You did really well on the price. The rear tires should be about what you paid for the orange part!
Regards,
Chris


Edited by Sugarmaker - 28 Jun 2021 at 5:41am
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AC720Man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Jun 2021 at 7:02pm
3 point to boot! Looks like you did good. Paid $300 for my none running WD. Installed a new battery, full tune up and Ive got as much in mine as you paid for a runner. And yours is in better cosmetic condition. I saved on shipping though, only 5 miles from me and I winched it on my trailer.
1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Jun 2021 at 5:50pm
Personally I would not recommend getting on from the side. But that doesnt mean it won't work, just too many things in the way to swing/ step around. Clutch, shifter??
Congrats on the tractor. I like my WD series tractors. They can still do some work too. Great for moving wagons around too. Was worth it if your Dad likes it!
Regards,
 Chris

D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dennis(IA) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Jun 2021 at 1:03pm
looks like it has mounting brackets for a #5 John Deere mower. 
It should work good for what you want to do.
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matador View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote matador Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Jun 2021 at 8:15pm
The tractor was delivered this afternoon. I'm amazed at how fast the shippers were. The only problem I had was getting the brakes unstuck- I knew which lever was the brake lock, but it took a lot of playing to get it to unlock. Other than that, everything looks really good on it. The one front tire is shot, but we all could see that anyways. It started right up, purrs like a happy kitten, and drives nicely for what it is. Honestly, the steering is nice and easy and the seat absorbs the bumps in our yard pretty well. For the price I paid, I'm really happy with it. Heck, just seeing my father's face light up with memories of the old "C" he drove as a kid was worth the price of admission

Here's a picture of him tooling around our yard on the new toy:


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matador View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote matador Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Jun 2021 at 4:44pm
With trucking, I figure it's about $1400 since I don't have a trailer large enough to go get it myself, but I think I could just park it by the highway with a sign that said "$2000" and probably sell it

Honestly, I'm amazed you can get ANY tractor for that price these days. Inflation is making everything worth it's weight in gold
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wjohn View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wjohn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Jun 2021 at 4:39pm
That's a pretty safe price. I know you'll have to deal with trucking on top of that but you can't get a running WD for much cheaper than that.
1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AC720Man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Jun 2021 at 4:31pm
Congratulations on the WD, let us know how it does for you. It’s the tractor that made Allis Chalmers a household name.
1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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matador View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote matador Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Jun 2021 at 4:25pm
I see they make a step you can buy that mounts to the side rail on these so you can climb on from the side. How good are those? Convenient and handy to have, or not really usable?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dakota Dave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Jun 2021 at 4:13pm
I think you did very well a WD is a good tractor. simple easy to fix and parts are plentiful. I liked the narrow front for raking hay. Mine ran poorly when I bought it previous owner said it was hard on points. I put new points in and it ran great for a little while then started running poorly again. when I took the 12 volt coil off under the mounting band it said ballast required. I added a ballast when I did the points the second time new plugs wires cap and rotor. removed the fuel separator cleaned the tank and carb. all total I spent $100 haven't touched it since. for the last 5 years I go out to the shop starts and runs beautiful. with a three point rake it'll turn very easy. there not a lot of fun climbing on and off with a 3 pt implement on make sure you always lower it to the ground when your getting of you don't want to be climbing on it when you slip and hit the hyd down trying to catch your self. put some anti skid on the step it helps a lot.
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matador View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote matador Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Jun 2021 at 3:13pm
The auction was today, and well, I own the WD. It sold for $725
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AC720Man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jun 2021 at 10:58am
D15 series II, much better tractor for a rake. We have both and while I like my WD, I would definitely prefer the D15 not only for comfort, not having ps on the WD will wear you out with the amount your doing. Just my 2 cents
1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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matador View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote matador Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jun 2021 at 10:11am
The neighbor runs a Deere S670 and two 9600's. The S670 and one 9600 get 30 foot headers, and the other 9600 gets a 25 foot. We're in NW Wyoming, so we flood irrigate here. The irrigation produces thick barley to start with, and the giant headers leave massive windrows

For the straw business, whatever tractor I pick up will just sit on the rake all season probably. I may want to throw a bush hog on it for summer or use it to put in end rows in fields every now and then, but almost all it's work will be raking. We're good on baling and bale wagon tractors. That just leaves the rake
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AC720Man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jun 2021 at 9:08am
Must have some huge headers on those combines to produce that much straw. If your just going to rake with it, a WD will do a good job. A D15 series II is an even better choice, power steering and very nimble.
1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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matador View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote matador Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jun 2021 at 8:54am
The auction date is a week from Wednesday, so nobody's bought it yet. Right now, the bid is cheap at like $100 or so, but you know what they say about auctions- you just never know.

Yeah, the neighbors combines make massive windrows. I'm not sure I could run my Deere 530 round baler through them without splitting. They're thick!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jun 2021 at 6:03am
Did you buy it! 
I like the post that if you hate it you can sell it. So true. Just dont put a ton into it. Might not recover your sunk costs.
I have raked hundreds of acres with one of these. It might be just what you need and the speed might be about right in second and or third ?? Sound like you have big tailings from a combine that your splitting. I have never done that. We would cut the straw again after combining and then rake. We need picture of the New WD working!
Regards,
 Chris
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JC-WI Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jun 2021 at 12:23am
Think you should be looking for a good 170 diesel. They run cheap on fuel, has mechanical hand clutch and live hydraulics, wide front and will ride a lot better....  Or find a D15 or D17 IV with factory 3PT
He who says there is no evil has already deceived himself
The truth is the truth, sugar coated or not. Trawler II says, "Remember that."
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matador View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote matador Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jun 2021 at 8:41pm
Yeah, it's a lot faster in 1st than what we're used to. My Case 830 does 1.7 MPH at rated engine speed, and the PTO on a Case is at I think 1600 RPM. TractorData shows the WD doing 2.5 in first gear. I don't think I'd be rowing it like a boat, I think I'd be stuck slipping it constantly LOL

I don't expect this to ever run a baler though unless we're just goofing around and doing it for fun one day. We have the Oliver and Case to bale, and if one of those goes down, we have the 7040 that runs a baler nicely. The problem with splitting windrows with those tractors is that they're just too big and clumsy (The 7040 especially). I love that 7040 for tillage, but for raking and running the bale wagon, I really am not a fan of it
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wjohn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jun 2021 at 7:26pm
To be clear the WD does not have a Power Director. It is only an in-out transmission/rear end clutch that allows the PTO and hydraulics to continue to be powered. There is no hi-lo like you would have in a D-17, for example. You may already know this but I couldn't be 100% sure from your posts - don't want you to be counting on a hi-lo function that isn't there!

I got a WD that was uglier than that one but ran well, did not smoke, and was complete, delivered, for $700 here in KS over a year ago. I went in to fix a leaking rear main seal and discovered that the main bearings and some other engine components did not have too much time left in this world. I suppose that is the risk you take with anything used - but for $700 with good rims and usable tires, I'm not out anything and have a good solid core to rebuild. It's just taking me forever to get it back together.

If tractors are harder to come by in your area then it sounds like prices may be higher.
1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AC720Man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jun 2021 at 7:13pm
A power director has a high and low range. WD only engages the hand clutch so there is no high and low range. They were made to slip, unless pulled back to fully engage. WD’ s are good bailing tractors. I don’t remember the ground speed in first gear but it should be in tractor data website to see if it matches up to what your used to running. It may in fact be too fast for big straw and you would be rowing the hand clutch like your in a boat lol.
1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote matador Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jun 2021 at 3:47pm
I've heard from a lot of people that the hand clutch/power director is great for baling. Now, on these WD's and WD45's, I assume the hand clutch is the same thing as the later Power Directors like the D-Series and 100 series tractors had pretty much, right?

What worries me about trying to bale with one is that our entire windrow will be so large that I feel like I'd be slipping the thing literally all the time, only fully engaging when turning around. I assume even being a wet oil bath clutch, I'd be killing the tractor to do that
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hubert (Ga)engine7 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jun 2021 at 3:28pm
The WD is one of my favorites. I pulled a NH 268 with my Dad's 1948 WD for many years and raked with a Fordson Dexta. The hand clutch is great for pto work, especially baling hay.
Just an old country boy saved by the grace of God.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DaveSB Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jun 2021 at 2:59pm
I think the WD would do what you need it to do, no problem.   But I’m prejudiced, I love the WD series.   That seat looks like it has a shock under it, so it may ride better than the original. If tractors are that hard to find in your area, I’d get it, and plan on going through the fuel system, the carbs are really easy to rebuild and other parts are plentiful.   If you bought it and hated it, you could resell it and probably get your money back. I’ve used a WD for years and love them, even though I will admit they are not the most comfortable tractor To drive, but you get used to it.
Good luck with your decision. In my area it would have an asking price of around $2000, but would be negotiable, I know prices vary greatly by location.    It if you could get it for $1500 or less, I think it would be a safe gamble. As long as you don’t mind doing a little work on it, these old tractors always need something, I would at least rebuild the carb and go from there, but it wasn’t smoking or knocking, the hydraulics worked and the 3 point didn’t look to bad.
Again. Good luck.
1948 C, 1953 CA, 1948 WD, 1961 D-17 Series 2 Diesel, 1939 WC, 1957 D14
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote matador Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jun 2021 at 1:31pm
If this one looks like it's a basket case, I have no problems to keep looking. We don't bale straw for another two months, so we have time. I know the neighbor would let us use the Kubota again, I just don't want to ask him. I hate to borrow stuff

Honestly I prefer driving the Oliver to the Case, but that 830 has really grown on me. A bit crude compared to the Oliver, but it starts right up and everything seems to work alright. For a $3000 tractor, I'm impressed with it. 

The problem in Wyoming is just finding a tractor. Freighting that tractor from Rawlins is about $700, and getting one from Eastern Nebraska is about $2000. So, if I look farther, it's hard to not blow the budget. The only other tractors I saw out here were a Ferguson TO35 diesel that smokes so much I'm amazed the guy driving didn't die of the fumes, and this International that has hydraulic pump problems: https://www.bigiron.com/Lots/International5842WDTractor-2

There just isn't much out here in the way of equipment, and this year with the hay shortages, everything is getting snagged up
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jun 2021 at 1:07pm
Good Luck! I have brought home way worse. But with the changes and things mentioned she may be a winter project for you to get back to good working order. Translate that into $2000 additional stuff you could do to get it ready for days in the field raking which it will do but maybe not day one. 
Dang I hope that helps you a little??
The Case 830 is a much more comfortable tractor to drive and handle for hours. This smaller WD will beat you up a lot more even on good ground. I have logged hundreds of field hours on these. Always enjoyed them but There are more comfortable tractors. But we love thes old orange girls. 
If you buy it keep your expectations low and go from there. Good news is you have back up tractors that can step in and do the work. I think our baler was a 268? Late 60's a,d a WD is a good tractor for those with the hand clutch. Maybe better than any of your other ones. The hand clutch is perfect for easing into large wads of straw!
 Regards,
 Chris
 Regards,
 Chris


Edited by Sugarmaker - 14 Jun 2021 at 5:54am
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jun 2021 at 1:06pm
If that was a cold start,it's not unusual for one to die out when loaded first thing. I have more throttle applied and a finger in the choke rod......
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote matador Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jun 2021 at 11:24am
Sugarmaker is right- the oldest tractor I've driven is a 1962. I know that in the 10 years from when they last made these to 1962, a LOT changed on tractors. This could be the first tractor I ever touch that I'd call a "Vintage" one. I know a lot of people would argue that a Case 830 and Oliver 1800A are vintage, but to me, it's a modern-type tractor, just a bit more crude that what came later.

The seat doesn't bother me too much- I honestly figured whatever tractor I buy will end up getting a modern seat sometime anyways, as soon as my butt complains at me enough. What does worry me is how it ran in the videos. I don't know if that's a choke thing, the carburetor being messed up, or just a bad operator. I have no experience with these tractors, but I know when you release the clutch, it's not supposed to almost die.

I'm not a fan of the upper three point link location either, but I didn't think of the structural problems. Looking at it, I just wonder if my top link will hit on it when I lower the rake. I guess a cutting torch and 10 minutes could fix that, but still

How bad is it to change a water pump on these? A simple, cheap fix, or is it a "Tear down half the tractor and spend more than the tractor cost" fix?

Both of our small square balers are New Holland 276's, so it's probably a big, but doable job for this tractor. We bale flat fields and drop the bales on the ground. Honestly though, we have the Case, Oliver, and the Allis 7040 that can bale, so if we ever hook up whatever the little rake tractor is to a baler, it's probably on the last day for s and giggles more than anything


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jun 2021 at 10:20am
That skinny fan belt is riding in the bottom of the fan pulley and looks the same on alt pulley? would not charge well if slipping. Have to remove lower rad hose to put the fat WD belt on....but be sure it has the wide pulley on alt. Can't tell for sure in pics.
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