3500 engine. What do I have?

http://www.allischalmers.com/new/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=8002&title=ac-426-engine-questions  

Edited by Coke-in-MN - 06 Sep 2010 at 8:45pm

that should work great In my 220, when are you selling It(LOL)

Darrell, This engine is why I want to sell you the newer and cheaper 670 out of the L2 combine. As you see I don't need the L2 engine now.

3000 series Mark 2 blocks began with the 7030/7050 tractor in January of 1973. Looking at the left side of the engine, there are no differences from pre-Mk2 to Mk2. On the right hand side, the engine oil cooler and filters are the major change (larger cooler and filters that are upside down) and the timing cover/front plate were changed to accomodate the newer DM-4 Roosa-Master injection pump system. The blocks were thicker in the walls that ran alongside the crankshaft for less noise and I think the towers of the inner structure that ties the deck surface to the mains are stronger to be more durable at higher HP levels. From the D21-210-220 engines that produced 150 flywheel HP maximum, they eventually had the Mk2 engines up to 222 flywheel HP in the 7580/N6 applications.

Just another variation of the exhaust system....that one goes from 3 inch to 4 inch and would be capable of supporting a large/heavy muffler unlike a farm tractor straight pipe. Pre Mk2 also had that available.

7080/7580'S with AC injector bodies were .0148" four hole tips. Mark 2 blocks evolved into the 670 series....in other words they would interchange with no problems. I know 670 engines later on (1980-81?) had heavier/thicker main brg caps compared to older engines. Rods bolts were never an issue as far as I'm concerned, but if someone thinks they are, I'd bet it was a 7080/7580/N6 that ran 2850 rpm hi idle and had a bad fluid dampner on the crankshaft. I've never had a broken rod bolt. I always replace rod bolts with new when working on the bottom end as a precaution. Intercoolers on a 220 tractor in hi ambient temps will probably cause overheating problems because (if the intercooler is plumbed correctly so it actually works) the BTU's of heat you are taking away from the engine are more than the radiator was designed for. There is a reason why a 7060 has FIVE rows of tubes in the radiator versus FOUR rows on a 7040 and 7045.....the intercooler is why......extra row adds 20/25% more cooling capacity to offset what the intercooler is adding to the coolant heat.

I beleive that is correct. Intercoolers on the 7060 and 7080,7580

I just picked up an intercooler from a yellow industrial engine this afternoon. There is a 3/4" or 1" pipe plug in the waterpump of my engine . Could I plumb the the coolant feed to the intercooler into that plug?  I haven't had a chance to check yet but I think the casting for the waterpump that came with  the intercooler is a little different. I know Dr. Allis made a comment about the intercooler being plumbed corectly.

Look at a factory set-up.....you need to get plumbed in exactly as they did it at the factory to be sure coolant flow is correct. Coolant comes out of the water pump and flows into the intercooler and thru it front to back and then turns around and comes back to front and out through the thermostat hsg back to the radiator. Even the early 7030/7050 water pump impellers were changed (deeper fins) to promote more water flow..

hi calvin,it was a pleasure to meet you at the laporte show.if you give me the basic catalog # off the eng.tag i can tell you if you have a automotive (truck) eng.Jeff Heitman has access to the eng serial # archives from harvey-if you can give the serial #,we can tell you when it was built,application,who ordered it,options ect.the only bad thing is it takes about a month or so to get a responce. Jack