Are B & CA belt pulley shaft taper different?

Looks like Fred will eventually have the remedy you need to take care of that issue. To me, that would be the easiest thing to do. No pullin' yer' hair out. Purchase the smaller diameter shaft pulley and its a done deal....

The pulley was available at one time for the small shaft .Because. My customer got back to again this week and is selling his B now, so if he gets it sold , I will be getting the pulley (for  small shaft ) that I got from Woods a few years ago for him. When I do I will post it in Classified . 

Right on. Yeah It had those plates and I can move them Separately by hand.I will probably pull it off and make a plate until I find a reason to have hydraulics on it. I will need to pull this thing all apart someday before I paint the tractor to put new seals in anyways.

the photo below is an exploded view of the B hydraulic pump / valve... the two discs you are playing with are #34 and #33... spring #14 allows them to move seperate of each other.. The ROD #7 moves plate #33 and as it rotates it grabs #34 and rotates it also.. They must move freely and not stick to each other..... Items #24 are the PISTONS.. it is a piston pump... the "valve" portion is all the parts on the top of the photo.  If it has been dry or dirty oil put thru the valve, you can have sticking of the spools.. Externally you can get rust / sticking / binding of the plates.

I called them and they didnt know what I was talking about.

I ended up finding a pto unit at a local tractor salvage it even has the hydraulic pump.

I put it on yesterday and it works. Now I can mow.

Not sure how the hydraulics work right now it is open but not pumping fluid. It has a thing that turns two ways I figured it is for kicking it on or off. Right now it is not spitting fluid out so it must be in the off position. I will put a bucket under it and rotate it the other way and see what happens. For now I will leave it in the position that its not pumping and put a plug on it. I just dont want to run it dry or hydro lock it.

your best bet is to got to WOODS and buy a pulley for the original B shaft, or buy a pulley with a 1 inch bore and have someone machine the taper to the smaller shaft.

Edited by steve(ill) - 21 Oct 2020 at 1:11pm

I dont know how to multi quote on here.

Would it work to pull the pto unit off my dads CA to borrow? He does not have any belt powered implements. Only a small 3 point point bush hog. Would the center pto splines be the same from my early B to his CA?

steve(ill) wrote: it says NON RUNNING, so i would assume you will have to pull the pump / valve and disassemble / clean / reset......... it may not work properly in present condition.

That might be more than I want to do.

Did not find small shaft pulley ,called  customer he dose have it ,but want to hold on to it right now just in case he get's the idea to buy another mower for tractor .The pulley was over $125. from woods dealer .

that housing should fit a B or a C tractor.. The SUMP is the oil cavity. Holds a couple extra quarts of oil in the transmission / bevel gear box.. The HYD valve is the thing on the right side of the case.. The PUMP is part of the valve and is inside the case... all held on by 4 bolts.  Since this is a very LOW VOLUMN pump you can run ONE cylinder of 1-2 inch diameter to lift a plow / blade / ect... It is not for a front end loader with cylinders 3 ft long.  When you slide the housing onto your bevel gear case, the internals drive off the top shaft of the transmission.. You have to have the motor running and clutch engaged ( foot off pedal) for the unit to run.. Push in the clutch and it STOPS.

2854

I cant remember the exact number but its #28XX. It is not the super early ones with a Wisconsin engine it has the Small Allis engine.

Thanks for showing pictures.  Really looks good for an older unit.  Check the serial number to determine the age.  It is by the gear shift lever to the rear.  At this age has probably been well painted over.  May have to clear for reading.  I understand there is a serial number list on this page.  If not let me know I have a list.  The 30's B serial numbers go from 1 - 33983.

I will get some. It does not have any tin on right now. I wanted to make sure it is going to run good before I put it on. It is pretty straight and rust free. It must have been repainted at some point because there is bondo on the grill surround. I dont plan to repaint it until I get a shop built big enough I can store it inside. Im going to order a new seat and steering wheel for it so my hands stop turning black.

When I got it it had not ran in years but it turned over so I figured it would run if I could get spark. I cleaned the mag up and set the timing according to someone on this site and could only get it to start by pull starting it. When I did get it to start it had no oil pressure. I put a T at the oil pressure guage and used a yard sprayer full of oil to prime it. Then I never got it to start again. I couldn’t hand start it.

It sat since last summer since I did not have time to mess with it and my step dad told me to advance the timing just a bit and I did and was able to get it to hand start. It also had oil pressure once it did start this time. Now I can start it within 5 quarter cranks usually.

10-4 thank you good sir.