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Inform me about a B |
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T-Mo
Bronze Level Joined: 13 Sep 2020 Location: 63628 Points: 29 |
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Posted: 19 Sep 2020 at 6:30am |
I missed out on the WD, but I did ran across another one, that's in rough shape and needs work for $500. But....
I also ran across a B. I know they're smaller, quite smaller than a WD, and I know they're close to a C, which I know nothing about either. Anyways, what info can you guys tell me about a B? HP, weight, size, one plow or two plow tractor, what kind of brakes, foot or hand, clutch, etc..... I believe I would rather have a bigger tractor, like a WD, but I wouldn't rule out a B either.
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Dusty MI
Orange Level Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Charlotte, Mi Points: 5053 |
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The difference between a B & C is the B was built for cultivating one row at a time. And a C two rows at a time.
That is the same for the D-10 and D-12. Dusty
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917 H, '48 G, '65 D-10 series III "Allis Express"
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T-Mo
Bronze Level Joined: 13 Sep 2020 Location: 63628 Points: 29 |
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Here is the link to the ad. I'm trying to figure out how that plow attaches to the tractor, and it looks like the hydraulic pump is off the tractor? I'm not sure what I'm really seeing in the pictures.
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nella(Pa)
Orange Level Access Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Allentown, Pa. Points: 3082 |
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john(MI)
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: SE MI Points: 9263 |
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Looks like it has the foot brakes conversion. That made it a lot nicer. It needs a battery box. You could take a jumper box to try to start it. I think you would need a manual for it and the plow. One common problem with the plow was lost parts for mounting it. I would probably offer $500 for it, or walk away. If you wanted a WD or 45 you'll be disappointed with the B.
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D14, D17, 5020, 612H, CASE 446
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jiminnd
Orange Level Joined: 16 Sep 2009 Location: Rutland ND Points: 2207 |
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The money may be more but there are a lot of WD and WD45 out there.
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1945 C, 1949 WF and WD, 1981 185, 1982 8030, unknown D14(nonrunner)
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DSeries4
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Ontario, Canada Points: 7204 |
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x2. You can buy a junker for $500, or a decent running one for $1500. Guaranteed you will spend more than $1000 fixing up a junker. AB is about half the tractor that a WD is.
Edited by DSeries4 - 19 Sep 2020 at 9:41am |
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'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
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Larry in NC
Orange Level Joined: 09 Feb 2016 Location: NC Points: 1041 |
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Unless it is just not shown in the picture, the plow drawbar and the depth adjustment lever are missing. This is a project tractor. Personally I would pass on it.
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Boss Man
Orange Level Joined: 03 Mar 2018 Location: Greenleaf, WI Points: 608 |
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Depends what you want to use it for. Its a lot lighter than the WD. Half the power of a WD. No hand clutch so no form of live PTO at all. I have my grandfathers B. It was his 1st tractor on the farm. Pulled a lot of hay wagons, a small manure spreader, with a little patients they pulled a 2-12 trailer plow with it. My dad said one year they pulled a 1 row picker with it. I pull a log wagon, 8 ft disk and mount a saw rig on it for cutting fire wood. Looks like the plow drawbar is missing and battery box. If it doesn't run I wouldn't go much above $300. Last I checked thats what the salvage yard would pay if it has been converted to battery ignition. A nice running B that you can drive and check the transmission and brakes around here can be had for $12-1500
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PaulB
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Rocky Ridge Md Points: 4423 |
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I would also ask what your intentions and expectations would be to give a full recommendation. If you want a garden tractor the B would be the way to go. If you want something larger in a nimble package, A CA is the perfect choice. You'll have just as much power as a WD along with the live PTO and great hydraulics with a better lift system. Many CAs already have the Snap-Coupler on them. The CA is no bigger than the size of a C and you don't need a West Virginia left leg to drive a CA. Be careful of non runners as your getting a pig in a poke. With a running tractor you can assess much better what your getting for you money. With Non Runners you can easily spend twice or more of what a runner will cost you.
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If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY |
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HD6GTOM
Orange Level Joined: 30 Nov 2009 Location: MADISON CO IA Points: 6627 |
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Around here you can buy a series 1 D17 for about the same money as a WD 45. After running all 3 for years, I'd look around for an early D17. More HP, and far more handy than a straight stick WD.
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Hubert (Ga)engine7
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Jackson Cnty,GA Points: 6127 |
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The preceding comments are spot on. The B is the toughest little one row tractor around but for a non-runner I would not give much more than $300 unless I needed it for a bunch of parts. Sounds like Mama has told him "get that pile of junk gone NOW!"
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Just an old country boy saved by the grace of God.
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*DougW
Bronze Level Joined: 11 Jun 2017 Location: Lancaster PA. Points: 75 |
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Sale yesterday had 5 B's sell. Electric starts were $1300 or less. Crank starts were $700 or less. All had very nice paint. good rubber. It costs money to fix these old beasts so just beware.
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Wispitfiremike
Bronze Level Joined: 28 Mar 2017 Location: Milwaukee, WI Points: 178 |
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Agree with Doug, I thought those prices were pretty reasonable at least from afar, up close always best way to buy anything. Either way you decide orange fever will get you and before you know it you'll have a couple of them, if not already.
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DaveKamp
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Apr 2010 Location: LeClaire, Ia Points: 5639 |
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A WD or WD45's operating advantages over the B, are greater weight on a larger footprint, so it is more capable at commanding a ground-engaging implement, and the large-form-factor engine (201/227 block) rather than the B/C/CA 'small-block'. The WD/WD45 have a hand-clutch that allows disengagement of the driveline, while keeping the hydraulic and power takeoff features to remain spinning, so an ersatz 'live' PTO system. The D17 is the successor to the WD-45... and as others noted, it is a serious workhorse, and has much better ergonomics than the WD and WD45. The WD, WD45, and D17 (series 1 through 3) all have high-pressure/low volume single-acting hydraulic circuits. The B, C, and CA were available with a similar hydraulic system controlled by a loop-ended rod underneath operator's right thigh. It's been a while since I used the hydraulics on my '48 B... someone correct me if I'm wrong, I believe that on the B and C, in order to have operating hydraulics, the PTO had to be engaged, and the engine clutch engaged... but if one wanted to operate the hydraulic lift without moving, one would have to put the transmission in neutral... but on the CA, a clutch on the right side axle shaft would disengage, allowing the differential to spin free, resulting in something operationally similar to the WD and WD/45 hand-clutch. The WD, WD45, and D17 Series 1-3 had the factory rear lift arms and hydraulics to facilitate their operation, they also had automatic implement height control features ('traction booster') if one chose to enable it... but for modern chore use, those lift arms can be linked to a pair of 3-point lower arms, and a top-link bracket added to result in a homemade modern 3-point that makes it a very useful machine for a variety of tasks.
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Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
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B26240
Orange Level Joined: 21 Nov 2009 Location: mn Points: 3860 |
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I would pass on that B for all the reasons above. Also the B is a hard tractor to get on and off while the WD is easy. If you are 20 years old it won't make much difference but for us older guys not fun. Go find a good WD or WD45 .
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ac fleet
Orange Level Joined: 12 Jan 2014 Location: Arrowsmith, ILL Points: 2210 |
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I have and use b, c, wd, wd-45, 190xtd and 440. all have their place and it depends on what you want one for. They are high price here IF you can even find them. Condition not important here. I am in the process of selling out my tractors and equipment ,--gittin too old for this chit anymore---cant work on it and cancer has me weak all the time, so time to quit.
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http://machinebuildersnetwork.com/
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Bob-Maine
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Central Maine Points: 922 |
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AC Fleet, I am very sorry to learn of your health problems. Please keep us advised and all will be praying and/or thinking of you. Bob
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I used to think I was indecisive, but now I'm not sure.
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fleeter allis fan
Bronze Level Joined: 05 Apr 2018 Location: Niagara Ont Points: 133 |
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The B was built from 1937 until 1957. You don't specify what the serial # is but keep in mind that all Bs are from 63 to over 80 years old. The older BE engine was only about 15 HP and the later CE engine was about 20HP. I know that there are lots of guys that get lots of work out of their old Bs, and plenty of guys will disagree with me, but really, it is a lot to ask of an old tractor like that to be much more than a pet.
The problem with a cheap project like that is they all probably need tires, the starters and generators and carbs need to be rebuilt, the brakes don't work, the water pump leaks, they leak oil from everywhere etc. and you might eventually want to clean it up and repaint it. It is very easy to spend $3,000 on a $300 tractor. They made over 120,000 Bs and there are lots of examples (in my area at least) that are in good running condition. Unless you have lots of time and money, or are looking for a project... Good luck.
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I'm a man...and I can change...if I have to... I guess.
'44 B, '46 WF, '49 G, 810GT, 916H, 620 |
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Ted J
Orange Level Joined: 05 Jul 2010 Location: La Crosse, WI Points: 18720 |
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AC Fleet, Sonny, I am very sorry to learn of your health problems. Please
keep us updated and we'll be praying and thinking of you up here in WI. God Bless
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"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17 |
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