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Sugarmaker 
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Joined: 12 Jul 2013
Location: Albion PA
Points: 8168
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 Posted: 26 Dec 2020 at 8:47pm |
Guys, Looks like we now have a PEX information central spot! I will try to look at and absorb all of this thanks for posting! I may get the PEX crimp tooling and use the same for some of my waterlines also! I did look at the PEX that I have from the floor. It says PEX-b on it. PSI ratings looks good at like 175 PSI IIRC. It is only 1/2 inch so there might be some pressure drop in a long run.
So I decided to work on the Dayton hoist and try to button that project up. Good news: after filling gear box to appropriate level with 90 wt. gear oil, I had no leaks at the case halves!
The area that needed the chain guide and sheave repairs. Chain stripper seemed ok.
Ran out all the chain, plus tried both the up and down functions, it worked fine! No chain slipping! Set the upper limit switch. Then ran out all the chain and assembled the chain stop about a foot from the end. Set the lower limit switch.
Rolled the Mig over and welded the chain stop sleeve back together.
Have to build the chain bucket, and get pickle cord shortened or looped to be the right length. Might actually be nice to have it longer sometimes to get a little farther away from the lift. Have a piece of cable to pull on the hoist rather than the control cord.
I think this is going to be a really nice addition to the shop! Like most of my other stuff it needed some attention to become operational again!
Regards, Chris
Edited by Sugarmaker - 26 Dec 2020 at 8:49pm
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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EricPA
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Watsontown,PA.
Points: 2578
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Posted: 26 Dec 2020 at 8:13pm |
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Life is tough,but it's tougher when you're stupid. - John Wayne
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jaybmiller
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Greensville,Ont
Points: 21570
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Posted: 26 Dec 2020 at 6:01pm |
Runnng air is no different than water in a house. The 'mainline' needs to be 3/4" or bigger THEN you can have runs made of 1/2". While your current pressor is only 100#, when you replace it, odds are the new one will be good for 135 or 155#, so best to install 'future rated' lines today...save the labour & cost of upgrading later,let alone the pain of looking the guy in the mirror and saying 'I told you....." Each 'drop' or 'station' or whatever you call them should have it's own regulator/water trap unit as well as a shutoff(before not after...) . All lines should be sloped away from the tank so water will accumulate in the water traps. A 'drop' consists of a shutoff then T fitting then4" nipple then pipe cap. The center of the T goes to the regulator and filter then quick connect. Yes it's a lot of plumbing,but you can slowly add 'drops' as required. Always a good idea to get a drop near every door and every corner. Another one of those 'do as I say, not what I did' sayings....
BTW you got a LOT more of 'pretty' than I did, whew..... Jay
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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steve(ill)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: illinois
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Posted: 26 Dec 2020 at 4:59pm |
About the 8:30 mark on the movie , it shows the crimper and clamps i bought from Menards to use on the PEX air lines.. The brass fittings are the major cost of the system, not the tool, clamps or pipe... They have TEE, 90 degree, and end like you would put at the top of a shower head ( pex in, 1/2 inch pipe out) to get to the valve or coupler at the end of the line.
Edited by steve(ill) - 26 Dec 2020 at 5:02pm
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Sugarmaker
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Joined: 12 Jul 2013
Location: Albion PA
Points: 8168
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Posted: 26 Dec 2020 at 1:05pm |
Folks, On the air line I do have a bunch of PEX. It says 100 PSI max on it. My compressor will put out a little more than that but for most things 100 PSI is plenty. I may look at that a little more too. Would need to find fittings and tool to crimp.
Plowing snow and getting the Dayton Chain falls together today.
Its 31 F in our Forum Shop! Not the best conditions. Temp out side was around 20F last night, maybe a little colder? But I have worked in worse. Hummmm? Wonder how heated floors and some insulation would be????  Just sayin.......
Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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steve(ill)
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Location: illinois
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Posted: 26 Dec 2020 at 8:39am |
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II put my air lines in 30 years ago also. All that was available at that time was air hose in 15- 20 ft lengths so i made that system. Today the most common system is PEX... just like your floor heat. You can make the lengths any length you want. In the Sons shop/ barn I put fittings at 20 ft intervals and you never have to move the compressor. Run a line upstairs and put 1-2 in the attic also. 1/2 inch ID pex ( .485) is plenty big compared to the fittings on the ends.
Edited by steve(ill) - 26 Dec 2020 at 8:41am
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Sugarmaker
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Joined: 12 Jul 2013
Location: Albion PA
Points: 8168
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Posted: 26 Dec 2020 at 8:25am |
Shameless, Folks, First the "pretty"! We have maybe 20 inches out there. Slow her down! Pull the plug. Turn it west, something! Good ideas on just using air line too! I have tried to keep Jay busy on this project! Regards, Chris
Edited by Sugarmaker - 26 Dec 2020 at 12:28pm
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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shameless dude
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Joined: 10 Apr 2017
Location: east NE
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Posted: 26 Dec 2020 at 1:00am |
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that there shop looks all warm and cozy as the pretty falls outside! it's to cold for me to walk over and slow down the machine tonight, maybe tomarrow? them silly Canadians left the door open again up there! Ted...me thinks your stolen wind machine is somewhere up NW of us. Darrell ND? Chris...i just ran regular air compessor hose along the walls/ceiling to get air elsewhere from the compressor, since no sun can get to it, it has lasted bouts 30 years so far. comes in dif lengths. when my big compressor gave up, i replaced it with a portable upright direct drive compressor, i like it better cause i can fill it and haul it (on my crane) to anywhere on the farm i need it. and it hooks up to the air hose in the shop too. it's alot quieter than the big upright i had before. i do enjoy seeing your work in progress on your new play pen! ole Jay makes me tuckered just reading what he tries doing in his day! whew! oh....and leave the longer length of chain on your hoist, will come in handy if you need to pull something a bit closer to your work area, or hook up farther away from the center.
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Sugarmaker
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Joined: 12 Jul 2013
Location: Albion PA
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Posted: 25 Dec 2020 at 9:00pm |
Bill, tadams, Jay, Folks, Thanks! Hope your Christmas Day was great! I was surrounded by family, great food and a good time! I will try to remember to ask Nic about the electrical shut off switch too. Sounds like a pretty good idea. My current air system leaks at the regulator, Guess I need to fix that! What do you guys recommend for air lines in the building? I dont have anything except hoses from the regulator at the air tank now. I would like to have two drops at each bench in Z1 a drop on each side of Z2 (where I park my truck) and at least two drops in Z3 which is the, high bay area. So that means a hundred feet or more of piping/ joints/fittings/ drops, at least.
On my Electric Dayton hoist: I need to make a chain bucket. It did not have one with it. I would like to use a piece of 6 inch PVC pipe about 16 inches long. Put a cap on the bottom and mount it under the hoist, to accept the extra chain. I dont think I will cut off any chain in case I want to have a longer reach for something? I do have the mounting bracket for the bucket.
Plowed for a hour or more today. Expecting another 4-5 inches of Pretty tonight also. Should end up with 16 plus inches! Shut it down Shameless!! We are good here for a while!
Regards, Chris
Edited by Sugarmaker - 25 Dec 2020 at 9:04pm
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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jaybmiller
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Greensville,Ont
Points: 21570
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Posted: 25 Dec 2020 at 10:47am |
re: 220 for aircomp and welder. I used the same receptacle style and wire feed for both air compressor and welder. That way either can be used at either location. Sure the welder plug on the aircomp is 'overkill' BUT it has allowed welder to be used at back of shop, an option I've used 3-4 times.
re: Shameless white... yeah, pretty til you TRY to move it ! grr..2" of white on top of 2" of VERY HEAVY watery white........
My air compressor don't leak air, so it's powered 24/7........remote switch sounds good though...
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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tadams(OH)
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Joined: 17 Sep 2009
Location: Jeromesville, O
Points: 9685
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Posted: 25 Dec 2020 at 9:21am |
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Merry Christmas everthing is looking great
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ORBill
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Joined: 13 Jun 2016
Location: Oregon
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Posted: 24 Dec 2020 at 11:56pm |
Chris First. Thanks for the journey on your shop project!!! Enjoying every minute of it. Second. I'll second Gary's air compressor switch suggestion. That's what I did in my shop and the 3 small manufacturing facilities I set up and managed. The switch just needs to be in a convenient location where it's easy to use and reasonably close to the compressor. It's best to keep the length of your wiring as short as possible so you don't have to jump up a size, unless copper is cheaper in Pa. than Oregon. I would recommend a Leviton MS302-DS, it's similar to the one Gary recommended but with larger contacts and rated for motor switching. It's rated for 5 HP at 240V and has worked flawlessly on the single phase 5HP 30 amp 2 stage compressor I have. $18.69 on Amazon, but probably less from your electricians wholesaler. I would suggest using a deep box as it's 2X larger than a std 30 amp switch. Makes it much easier to wire up.
Looking forward to the the open shop party when the Forum's Shop is completed, so please don't get too sidetracked on other projects along the way!
Bill In snow free western Oregon
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Sugarmaker
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Joined: 12 Jul 2013
Location: Albion PA
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Posted: 24 Dec 2020 at 9:22pm |
Gary, Thanks I will try to remember to mention that to Nic. Sounds like a good idea, because I am always going over and shutting the air compressor off for the night.
Folks, Christmas eve! Well Since we have a place to hang out and work on things. And the chain guide arrived today, I decided to get the Dayton hoist back together this afternoon. After the nap of course. Will be good to clear the bench. The new chain guide and the repaired sheave look like the ticket to getting this machine back in operation! Got the gear assemblies back in place and no extra parts on the bench: 
Added a thin layer of gray gasket cement and buttoned up the gear box.Then installed the electrical s. Will fill it with 90Wt gear oil in the next few days. Then do some trials.
Shameless was directing his machine towards Albion PA tonight. We got 3 inches in about 2 hours! Just awesome!
Regards, Chris
Edited by Sugarmaker - 24 Dec 2020 at 10:28pm
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Gary
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Peterborough,On
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Posted: 24 Dec 2020 at 3:50pm |
Chris If you are still wiring, and I could make a suggestion. Regarding your 220 volt comp., I recommend installing a switch for the compressor near the Exit Door and ceiling lights switch. Then you can get in the habit of turning off comp. when you leave. I installed a couple of electric heaters in my SHOP recently, and put the two switches by the door. Got the switches on Amazon. G https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000HEIVZK?ref_=pe_1162070_123184320_dpLink
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Sugarmaker
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Joined: 12 Jul 2013
Location: Albion PA
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Posted: 24 Dec 2020 at 3:13pm |
tadams, Yikes man its no fun to be hurting! We have things to do. Ok our minds say we have things to do!
Folks, Merry Christmas to all the Allis Folks! Cheryl and I have not had a Christmas eve with just the two of us for 49 years! We had only been married 2 weeks!
On the Shop: Nic was here today and feels he is past the half way point of the rough wiring. Have a couple 220 lines to put in. One for Air compressor and a 50 Amp for the little Lincoln welder too. His plan is to come over Sat. and work on wiring too! He did get power to the two overhead doors on the west wall today! Nice!
I have to do some head scratching now on the next insulation moves. To foam the walls or not to foam the walls? That is the question?
Probably time to do a plus and minus chart along with the costs, and then throw a dart at the chart! . Both systems would be good with the foam being the best draft sealing process. It would be more costly system. About a buck a day for the next 10 years. Closed cell foam is the newer technology that was not there 30 years ago. And as far as fiberglass, I dont think they were putting R39 in attics back then either. So good improvements in keeping the insides of a building more comfortable in all climates.
Honestly I could go either way. Sometimes I dont think about the heat of summer but I do know when its hot out, it sure is nice to not have a hot area to work in too.
Separate but related: I got my present I ordered for myself/shop today. A new chain guide for the Dayton 2 ton chain hoist! If I felt really foxy I could go put it together before I forget!
Yes mine was worn out!: (I was surprised to see this part came from West Allis Wi. Coincidence? I dont think so!)
Also delivered some maple gifts to neighbors across the road. They have to put up with me. Here is the view of our place, from their drive:
Regards, Chris
Edited by Sugarmaker - 24 Dec 2020 at 3:19pm
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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tadams(OH)
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Joined: 17 Sep 2009
Location: Jeromesville, O
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Posted: 21 Dec 2020 at 3:22pm |
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Yes I would be glad to do something. Friday my left elbow swelded up and was sore, started taking iveprfin swelling went down some this morning went to clinic cause getting to my doctor is impossible to get into cause he's only in one day a week, found out I have bursitis and red was moving out my arm towards my hand. setting around all day with elbow in the air and ice pack on it.
Edited by tadams(OH) - 22 Dec 2020 at 2:37pm
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Sugarmaker
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Posted: 21 Dec 2020 at 6:56am |
Jay, Sounds like your very busy! I dont do much any more. Just happy to get up and get going most days! Try to start something that I had not done before. Thats gets lots of things started not much finished! Our Pretty is melting! Going to try to look at the F40 forklift fuel transformation today, again! This time we are going to look at the pump gas option! New carb kit waiting. Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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jaybmiller
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Greensville,Ont
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Posted: 21 Dec 2020 at 6:40am |
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guess we should be able we can SEE the sun come up.........
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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JohnColo
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Posted: 20 Dec 2020 at 11:16pm |
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Sun is setting a few minutes later now, still coming up later in the morning for some more days though.
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jaybmiller
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Posted: 20 Dec 2020 at 7:48pm |
dang it Chris, WHERE do you find a WHOLE day to just play on YOUR stuff and COMPLETE a project ??? I need to KNOW your secret !! You got locks on the that pretty new shed ?? sigh.... all I did was
try to cut code to control furnace in garage, 1/4 dun ripout the flakey RF wireless 'randomly open' GDO 'computer, 1/4 dun moved 12 bundles of PEX foam boards for neighbour work on a 'sled' for another neighbour rewire a heater for another neighbor put bandaid on his sliced finger, yuck.... tried working on air compressor air filter.. 1/4dun, maybe designed SSQA electric lock/unlock system,looks good on paper, got some parts here shovled some of Shameless 'donation' tried installing cooling fan in oven, nope..back to drawing board noticed rider/blower has engine oil leak...needs pulling to fix,again...
sigh...
oh well, starting tomorrow, days are getting longer !!!! probably gives me more time to not finish any of the above....
I did find out who has the most posts though !!
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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steve(ill)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: illinois
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Posted: 20 Dec 2020 at 4:16pm |
The new sheave was $250 ish. Again trying to make something out of nothing!
Looks good... been there , done that !!  
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Sugarmaker
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Joined: 12 Jul 2013
Location: Albion PA
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Posted: 20 Dec 2020 at 3:50pm |
Folks, The Dayton Chain hoist was slipping the chain as it turned. Tore into it. All the transmission parts and electrical parts out.
Got to the worn sheave and the plastic chain guide (horse shoe shaped part). You would think if its a wear item it could be changed easier??
I tried to save/ rework the chain guide but ordered a new one. But decided to try to weld the steel sheave at the wear points. So I carved out some anti weld copper pieces.
Anti splatter shields on the sides to protect the internal splines:
Mig welded each worn spot between the copper:
Deburred and ground back to near spec:
Chain link test looked better. The new sheave was $250 ish. Again trying to make something out of nothing!
Did make a batch of Maple Mustard sauce today. Maple BBQ made yesterday:
Some "pretty" from Shameless too!
Regards, Chris
Edited by Sugarmaker - 20 Dec 2020 at 3:55pm
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Sugarmaker
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Location: Albion PA
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Posted: 18 Dec 2020 at 3:41pm |
Cold in the shop! Where is that warm floor heat??? Drained the gear oil (90 wt.) in the hoist:
Worked on the bearing brackets for the OH doors. Nothing but some noodling, layout, and whittling here.
Love those Lennox blades! Note the use of the rebuilt YOST vice too! It worked well!
This will allow the door spring system to move down about 1 inch lower.
Added another hole for the bolt of death, (red colored bolt) Those reworked brackets are done!
National toe warming competition right now as I thaw out! Regards, Chris
Edited by Sugarmaker - 18 Dec 2020 at 3:42pm
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Sugarmaker
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Posted: 18 Dec 2020 at 8:56am |
Folks, The Dayton hoist has me in a head lock! Priced the replacement parts for the chain sheave and the chain guide. They like those a lot! Think I am going to tear it apart and see what I find before I order a couple hundred dollars in parts for this well used unit. Stay tuned.
Merry Christmas to all the Allis folks and your families!
Thanks for all the support on my shop project this year too!
Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Sugarmaker
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Posted: 17 Dec 2020 at 7:00pm |
Steve, Folks, I remember the white wash thing too. But I lived with that in the cow stable all the time. Got my last insulation quote back with updated cost for more material and more work. About $6K for fiberglass all around. Maybe materials went up some too? Even if I just go with fiberglass , the shop will probably be insulated better than my house!:)
Ok we have to get this electrical completed in the shop! Need to get back on task. Maybe Nic will work on it some this weekend? it has been pretty cold out there too!
I am so easily distracted also! Have the Allis forklift to rebuild the carb to gas components, set up a temp gas tank, and try to get it to run, move too!
Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 17 Dec 2020 at 6:42pm |
Chris... they sell 5 gallon buckets of WHITE WASH or BARN PAINT.. a lot more reasonable that high quality house paint.
GOOD WORK on the hoist !!
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Sugarmaker
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Posted: 17 Dec 2020 at 6:21pm |
Folks, A little change of pace but still shop related somewhat. I decided to work on the Dayton Electric chain hoist today. Its going to work or be junk was my thoughts! First thing I did was continue to pull chain by going in the down mode. Got the chain stop bound against the housing. Stuck. Beat on the chain stop, finally just went and got the 4-1/2 inch grinder and cut the chain stop apart. We can get a new one or weld the sleeve I cut apart?
Decided to call Altoona Hoist and talked to RJ. Very nice guy! He sent me the PDF repair manual via email. He also talked me through the fact that if the motor worked, it was probably up against one of the prox switches. He told be how to take the brake apart and move the chain through the machine manually over the sheave. Some pictures: But before that the LP heater and a diesel torpedo heater helped keep me thawed out! Temps around 35F. 2 inches of Pretty!
2 ton Dayton hoist On the Old Yale manual chain falls. The jib worked good. I swung it around and set it on my rolling work bench, at the 9 x 8 overhead door area.
Chain is slipping from wear in the sheave or the composite chain guide. Both may be worn and need replaced: With the chain slipping I realized I cant set the upper limit prox.
Here I took the electrical parts and moved them out of the way to get to the brake assembly:
Brake components are ready to be removed:
With the brake assembly removed you can get a good view of the limit switches (proximity switches) Maybe actual contact switches?) Gold wheel is the upper stop limit, silver wheel is the down stop position. Very fine thread shaft they ride on. one click of the wheel is 1 link I think.
Brake components removed:
With the brake components out of the way this shaft can be rotated to move the chain through the sheave. Thats the good news. With the gear reduction it would have taken me 3 days to move the chain (20 feet) So I took a spade bit and reworked it as a driver to fit in the spline ends and spun it in reverse. Still took me 15 minutes or so to move the chain through the sheave.
Yea wasn't sure about this project but it helped to have RJ walk me through the treory of the work and assure me I could get the chain moving.
Since my lifting distance is going to be less than 10 feet I pulled a lot of chain through that may get cut off some day or may just lay in the chain bucket. (which I dont have) After several failed attempts to get the 20 feet of chain threaded back through the alignment feature so it would not kink through the sheave, I was successful, Ran the hoist up and down with the limit wheels set closer together to allow some trials. Pretty exciting to see it going up and down! But on the way up it would jump a link once in a while. That needs fixed. Then we should be good to go.
I did figure out that this hoist is set up for 115v so that fits good with the shop. Could go with 220 if I wanted to swap some wires per the electrical diagram?
I always wanted a electric hoist. Well darn, now I have one! Be very careful what you wish for! This Dayton unit is more than I need. But it was close by and was $100, I took a chance. Have you priced hoists these lately? A new one would be about $4K! Yikes! I still have some dollars and time to put into it. Hope to have less than $200 in it????? If so My whole Jib crane including install would be under $600, mostly concrete and this hoist. Maybe really handy if it works.
Done for the day. Was thinking about what My neighbor said on his shop build. He went low cost a year ago and used OSB on the walls, taped and spackled the seams, primed it, and several coats of finish paint. When done he felt he spent the same monies as using liner panels! Just sayin. Paint isnt cheap either!
Regards, Chris
Edited by Sugarmaker - 17 Dec 2020 at 7:11pm
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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DiyDave
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Gambrills, MD
Points: 50644
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Posted: 17 Dec 2020 at 5:35pm |
I bet that cream colored walls, with corporate orange trim would make you the talk of this forum! 
Since color in paint don't add anything to the price, I say go fer it!  |
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Source: Babylon Bee. Sponsored by BRAWNDO, its got what you need!
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Gary
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Peterborough,On
Points: 5179
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Posted: 17 Dec 2020 at 4:01pm |
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Chris
There is a Drywall called Greenboard Drywall that is Water Resistant.
I believe it is the one recommended for Bathrooms. Use Galvanized Drywall Screws.
If you ran your Drywall horizontal, you could cut a sheet of Greenboard in half lengthwise, install it along the lower level of the wall first - cut edge down - then continue up with regular Drywall.
Also since you have the extra height, you could install a length of 1 X 2 along the bottom first, sort of as a starter strip.
G
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tadams(OH)
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Joined: 17 Sep 2009
Location: Jeromesville, O
Points: 9685
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Posted: 17 Dec 2020 at 9:03am |
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Another thought for the walls, use drywall and cover the bottom with the plastic covering they use in milking parlors tht way if you wash your vehicles of tractors the water will hit the plastic and not mess up the drywall and paint above the plastic white to make it match.
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