Need Info on 2 Bottom Allis Plow

About the new wheel & tire -  I could not find a used replacement tire for the left side so I thought why not drill and tap the hub to allow me to use one of my extra trailer tires ... just couldn't get the bolts to work in a 4 3/4" hub and a 4 1/4" rim darn! But it worked great so I decided to go ahead and do the other side too before I hauled it up to the hunting land, that way I have more options if it does go bad.  Equipment will be sitting outside and I know that is hard on tires.

Edited by hardwood61 - 18 Aug 2010 at 8:59am

Thanks for the info Matt  from a fellow Minnesotan.  We bought 80 acres last year south of Evelith - used 4 wheelers to put in two 1/4 acre plots - turned out not too bad but I wanted to expand our plots next year and replant this fall so I ended up buying a tractor and implements - plan to use the smaller equipment for back in the woods stuff.

I have got a plow just like that I pull with my WF, start point for levers can be about half way up the notches and adjust from there, that is where I start in wheat stubble but also depends a lot on your plow shares.

I'm new to this plowing thing myself. Our ground was in pretty good shape, so all we did was disc it up and go. I just bought a 2-14 plow from Glenn. If I ever get it down here, i'm gonna try to get some ground into shape over at my son's place. I know that you have to get the plow set laterally so that it "tracks" properly behind the tractor. I know you have to level mounted plows so that they run level when the tractor is in the furrow.(one wheel in furrow, one on land side). Not sure if this is the case with trailer plows, because they are not "mounted" to the tractor, but I think that is where the depth levers come in. Left plow bottom would be lower than right bottom when sitting on flat ground, but level when plow right tire was in the furrow after the first pass. Technically, I guess you would set both bottoms the same height for the first pass, and then set the left plow to level with the plow in place, tractor right wheels in furrow. Then it should be a case of setting the depth that the plow and tractor would both be happy with. That's as far as my guesswork gets me. There may be more adjustments to make to get the plow to "suck" in like it's supposed to. I know the coulters should be set in line with the left leading edge of the shares, so that they cut the crust for the share so it rolls the top of dirt over. I am learning on this as I go too, so someone come in and tell us newbies how it's done.

Thanks ...  but HUH?

Maybe an example will work. You want the landside of the front (or right) bottom to trail one bottom width left of the inside of the tractor's rear wheel that you run in the furrow. So if its a 16" bottom you want that distance to be 16", 14" for a 14" bottom and 12" for a 12" bottom. If you don't know the bottom width, you measure between the centers of the plow beams to find the bottom width.

Sometimes you adjust the drawbar and the hitch, sometimes you adjust the tractor wheel spacing. Its nice if the trailing plow hitch is at the center of the tractor, then it would pull straight, but thats overly nice because the wheel in the furrow grabs better than the wheel on the stalks most of the time. Fortunately the front wheel on a wide front tractor is also in the furrow to straighten out the tractor.

Gerald J.

It pulls easier if the front bottom doesn't do a full width cut, but it might not fill that furrow full. It pulls harder and probably will still roll over if you cut up to 2 or 3 inches wider but that will more than fill the furrow.

You just set that distance by the inside of the tractor wheel and the drawbar, and go. There are other adjustments that take more time, the tilt sidways and front to back to get both bottoms the same depth and the plow going in instead of refusing to plow.

Gerald J.