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Ted J 
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Joined: 05 Jul 2010
Location: La Crosse, WI
Points: 18821
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 Topic: Chrysler / Dodge Mechanics...
Posted: 07 Dec 2019 at 7:00am |
My son has a 2013 Chrysler Town and Country that has a problem. I don't know what motor is in it, but I can find out. Actually it's his wife's vehicle. Anyway, the problem is that she's driving it and comes up to a stop and it just starts to stumble and then dies. It doesn't happen all the time, just once in a while. It's becoming more often now though. After it dies, she can start it right back up, no problem at all. Any ideas? He says hes done searches on the internet but can't come up with anything. He's worried it'll happen at some inopportune time and he's worried about his 3 little girls. Oh, and I suppose his wife too....  Any ideas?
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"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17
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DMiller
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Joined: 14 Sep 2009
Location: Hermann, Mo
Points: 31061
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Posted: 07 Dec 2019 at 7:14am |
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Idle Air Control is not operating effectively, Closes down when driving and when comes to stop fails to adjust fast enough or the port is blocked with goo enough it fails to readjust idle.
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fixer1958
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Joined: 13 Feb 2010
Location: kansas
Points: 2434
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Posted: 07 Dec 2019 at 7:41am |
A 13 should have a 3.6 The only problems I have seen with those is the oil cooler leaking which is under the intake manifold. You can kind of see it because of the oil filter housing location. When they leak it is substantial. It is a variable valve timing engine so if the oil gets low or is lacking regular service things get weird. Check the oil and service intervals. Dirty throttle plate could do it. They also had issues with the torque converter clutch not releasing but from your description doesn't sound like it. It would be like coming to a stop in a higher gear and not pushing the clutch in. Check the trans fluid for the hell of it.
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Clay
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Udall, Kansas
Points: 9323
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Posted: 07 Dec 2019 at 12:33pm |
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A friend of mine had a similar sounding problem with his Town & Country. Turned out to be a defective catalytic converter. Changed it out and solved the problem.
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Ray54
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Joined: 22 Nov 2009
Location: Paso Robles, Ca
Points: 4516
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Posted: 07 Dec 2019 at 1:13pm |
My wife drove a 08 Chysler Pacifica that did simalar things.Changed ignition switch because of other issues and seemed to help. But did it again and the advice was computer.My wife refussed to drive it again.
So no help but can share your pain.
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DiyDave
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Gambrills, MD
Points: 51670
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Posted: 07 Dec 2019 at 6:57pm |
Put a fuel pressure gage on the fuel supply line. Most chrysler products have a history of the fuel pumps(in tank). Sometimes they hang on the sliding rack, and suck air. Take a rubber mallet, and keep it in the van. When it happens, whump the fuel tank, a coupla times, and see if you feel or hear the pump sliding down the rack. It can be other things, too, this is just a relatively easy diagnosis, if its not setting a code... 
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iowallis
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Joined: 04 Jun 2017
Location: North Iowa
Points: 338
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Posted: 07 Dec 2019 at 9:07pm |
My wife has a '13 T&C, luckily no problems like this yet.
Has the check engine light came on? I have seen relatively cheap scanners that hook up to your smartphone or even a cheap Chinese one off of ebay will read the code and let you remove it once fixed.
Do a little searching on the internet with these symptoms. The dealer said the catalytic converter was shot on the previous van (2004 Dodge Caravan) and +$800.00 to fix. Google search said code could be caused by dirty sensors and a few bottles of Chevron Techron and the code went away never to come back.
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HudCo
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Joined: 29 Jan 2013
Location: Plymouth Utah
Points: 3538
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Posted: 09 Dec 2019 at 10:49am |
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look and see what codes you have sounds to me like it could be a trans mission control soliond pack starting to act up. codes will give a place to start looking , but you will probley have to read or record some live data
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chaskaduo
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Joined: 26 Nov 2016
Location: Twin Cities
Points: 5200
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Posted: 09 Dec 2019 at 12:09pm |
Getting to where you need these thousand dollar scammers for when your vehicle hiccups. Your paying through the nose for the software as the electronics of it are not that expensive. Shops around here charge you a hundred bucks to hook up their scammer and give you their edumacated guess, which is not always the right one. Uhhrrgg I hate these computer cars, soon if not already, blinker bulb burns out, car won't start, hood won't unlock, and a tow truck shows up. OK, stick a fork in me, I'm done.
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1938 B, 79 Dynamark 11/36 6spd, 95 Weed-Eater 16hp, 2010 Bolens 14hp
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Ted J
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Joined: 05 Jul 2010
Location: La Crosse, WI
Points: 18821
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Posted: 13 Dec 2019 at 2:37pm |
 HudCo wrote:
look and see what codes you have sounds to me like it could be a trans mission control soliond pack starting to act up. codes will give a place to start looking , but you will probley have to read or record some live data |
I think he told me that there is no code showing? No warning lights or anything like that. I'll have to ask him. Thanks Mike! Elliott, consider it done,,,,,,,,with a tuning fork.  But I have to agree witch chuze...dang lectronics. They just keep putting in new chips till they find one that works.....and you gotta pay for ALL of em. Pffftt!!!
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"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17
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john(MI)
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: SE MI
Points: 9262
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Posted: 13 Dec 2019 at 2:58pm |
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And the scammers ain't always right. I had an ABS code so I took it to a friends and he hooked it up and said the rear drivers side was bad. I ordered the new sensor and started fixing it. It ended up being the new wheel bearing I had installed leaked grease and it covered the sensor. The replacement wheel bearing was free, and so was the aggravation! I checked and the ABS sensor worked fine after I cleaned the grease off of it.
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D14, D17, 5020, 612H, CASE 446
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jaybmiller
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Greensville,Ont
Points: 22452
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Posted: 13 Dec 2019 at 3:22pm |
John , in you case the scanner was correct. The problem was 'rear drivers side ABS sensor' . However the computer( scanner) could pinpoint the exact cause of the fault. In your case grease covered the sensor so no signal. It could have been a shorted wire, an open wire or grounded wire ( X2 if floating sensor) .Now those last 6 condition COULD have been easliy diagnosed and reported but 'engineers' don't bother,either because they're lazy or 'head office' says hurry up, it's costing us too much, or who cares.... What I object to is the 'shotgun' approach to repairs... Computer says 'this' and the mechanic repalces 6 things, 1st 5 didn't fix it but YOU got charged ! BTW THOSE old parts are YOURS, demand to get them back..you might have to pay a 'core charge', say on an alternator but paying $40 core fee for a a known, GOOD $500 alternator is a deal !
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ac fleet
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Joined: 12 Jan 2014
Location: Arrowsmith, ILL
Points: 2316
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Posted: 14 Dec 2019 at 1:24pm |
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I would check the engine sensors, ---just to be sure one aint screwed up!--dont take much! --Dont matter what picture hangs on the hood, they ALL have the same sensors, just arrange them differently!
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HudCo
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Joined: 29 Jan 2013
Location: Plymouth Utah
Points: 3538
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Posted: 17 Dec 2019 at 2:26pm |
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the codes that the scanner gives you aplace to start looking that is why you need live data from a quality scanner and multi meter , the code means that somthing in that sytem failed or didnot recieve a signal from somthing easle that failed
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AC7060IL
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Joined: 19 Aug 2012
Location: central IL
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Posted: 19 Dec 2019 at 1:50am |
DMiller wrote:
Idle Air Control is not operating effectively, Closes down when driving and when comes to stop fails to adjust fast enough or the port is blocked with goo enough it fails to readjust idle. |
Diddo
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