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Calling all welders here,,,,,,

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desertjoe View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote desertjoe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jul 2019 at 8:37am
Originally posted by shameless dude shameless dude wrote:

the wire I sent Joe was baling wire...now ain't that funny that he would even try? I told ya'll he was CHEAP! LOL (poke,poke)

  CHIT,,,Shameless,,,,Ya got me on thet one,,,,,LOLLOLLOL
   BALING WIRE,,,????,,what the heck I gonna do with all them rolls of baling wire you sold me as mig wire,,,???
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JC-WI Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jul 2019 at 10:21am
"
the wire I sent Joe was baling wire...now ain't that funny that he would even try? I told ya'll he was CHEAP! LOL (poke,poke)
"
 Joe, did ye measure Shameless's balin wire he sents you??? if he sent the good stuff it would measure about 14 1/2 gauge, or... .076 ' an your little sputter prolly takes .030" ... What did ye do to get shameless's wire through that little tip on your welder?
  An if he sent ye some really cheap 16 gauge baling wire, it's still .0675" ... meaning you had to drill that tip out. LOL
  Say Joe, didn't you get Shameless's double platinum guarentee that if it didn't work, he would refund your money for twice what you paid for it?

  Worked in a peat processing plant where the dust would get into the welder contactors on the circuit board and after a few replacements of the little switch modules on the board of the 220v Lincoln wire feed, I started taking them apart and cleaning the points and then taping the seams shut to keep the dust out. You would not have believed how that dust could somehow get in there, but it did. One of the contactors would not even allow the spool to feed, another one messed with the wire feed and have poor splatter sounds... also the tips would wear out fast up there and had to change them out every couple days, we even used the dip to try and keep the sl*g from sticking.  The dust probably came from getting on the wire at the feed rollers. We also had to lay the shielded cable out as straight  as possible too.  A new whip helped for awhile and still had to blow that out too.
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The truth is the truth, sugar coated or not. Trawler II says, "Remember that."
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Leop Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jul 2019 at 12:12pm
Originally posted by shameless dude shameless dude wrote:

I always used an old refridgerator to store wire and sticks in when between welds of anything. worked great keeping moisture out/off items stored inside.


Thats a great idea. I am going to start storing my wire in an 9ld fridge first thing after work today.

I am thinking that I might add a light bulb like the gun safes do. Not needed for mig wire, but might help with the coating on my sticks not getting soggy?

Thabks for sharing.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TDF Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jul 2019 at 6:23pm
Originally posted by Thad in AR. Thad in AR. wrote:

Find a used MillerMatic 200 and live happily ever after.


Amen to that. Look for them on local auctions, and local classifieds. They regularly turn up in my area for under 1k.   I got mine on a farm sale. Not much use. Full bottle of gas and full spool of wire for $750, a year and a half ago. And it is one fine welding S.O.B. capable of small welds up to very thick stuff. We haven't used the old arc since I bought the 200, and I built a fork attachment for a loader tractor that I've since used to pick up cars with and haven't broken a weld yet.

TDF
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DMiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jul 2019 at 8:22pm
For my stick rods I actually bought two old heated rod totes, fill one with what I intend to use, plug it in overnight and nice and dry by morning. Otherwise they lay in the tin I buy them in inside the shop.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote desertjoe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jul 2019 at 4:31am
 Yeah,,JC,,10-4 on keeping the flyin stuff away from them welders,,,I use up a lot of grinder wheels for most of my work and will NOT grind any metal around the mig,, I ought to have a canvas cover or something but usually either move the work or the welder away from the other to save the welder. I have one of those white plastic "trays" out of an old fridge that I use to cover the welder with when it stays out that works pretty good. 
 I've bout decided I'm gonna have to get me a good 220 mig with a 50' power cord since I use a welder so much any more. 
 I just remembered something when this all started with the CH mig,,,that I had rebuilt a miller arc welder with a Onan engine on a nice trailer sometime back  and it been in the boat shed all this time,,,I should bring it out, dust it off and try to trade it for something I can use,,, I cannot remember which model it was,,but I bet ole Thad remembers,,,he helped me so much on it,Clap  I'ma go look when sun-up....Clap
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Thad in AR. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Thad in AR. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jul 2019 at 5:49am
Miller Aead 200 LE and apparently you use it as much as I use mine.
I have used it for a generator but that’s been a few years back.

Edited by Thad in AR. - 13 Jul 2019 at 5:59am
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desertjoe View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote desertjoe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jul 2019 at 8:13am
 Dang,,but you gots you a dang good memory,,THad,,I kept thinkin on thet welder so I had to go take a look see and you are exactly right it an AEA 200LE and still looks like i left it,,,what,,2-3 years,,??Wink I'ma gonna move a bunch of chit to get it out,,check the engine and get it runnin. One of the ta'ars is blown so got to fix that and put it on the MarketPlace for sale or trade for a 220 volt Miller mig. What you think a good sellin price for this "vintage" welder,,,,,,LOL  Ordinarily,,,,I dislike that word when I'm buyin,,,,,but,,,,??Clap I did find a brand new faceplate,,,looks nice,,,huh?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Thad in AR. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jul 2019 at 8:48am
I don’t know on the value but I traded a Lincoln weldonpower 200
Rope start AC only for a $ 750.00 Ruger. It wasn’t near the welder you have. I’d really search out a Mm 200. They quit making them and soon the welders all started complaining so they made the MillerMatic Vintage which is what I have. It’s awesome but still not the welder the original 200 is. If you can test a capacitor or change out an electric motor you can make a MM 200 last forever. No boards or BS to mess with and the most crisp arm of all Migs
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote desertjoe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jul 2019 at 7:15am
 Well, Gents,,I gots a bit of an update as I did take all the comments to heart,,,,Clap I had been buying the solid wire from Harbor Freight thinkin it was chea,,,,err,,, more economical,,so I went to the weldin supply and asked for their best (almost choked on thet word) wire they had and he handed me a roll that was ,,gulp,,priced less than a five spot,,told him again I wanted the best and he tells me that one is made by a company that only sells welding supplies and they have been carryin this brand for over 10 years with NO Complaints from any of the welders.  
  Run home and took the gun apart again and cleaned it all out, blew the new liner out good,,reassembled it all and give it a go,,,,,Same friggin thing,,!! Messed with the wire speed a bunch and finally remember that CH tech had got me to reverse the leads (?) back couple of months ago, so I reverse them like manual says they should be and ,,,,,,,PRESTO,,,the sound of fryin bacon starts comin outa thet thing,,,!! It still erratic but I keep messin with the wire speed and finally get to where it will weld good bout a 1 1/2" long weld,,spit a little and then take off again fryin bacon, Lots more better if you just go for 1" welds,,, stop for an instant,,,then give her another inch,,,,,Wink 
 It hard to believe the changing to a different (better) wire has done the trick on this machine but I have still made up my mind to get me a 220 volt Miller soon as I find one worth the money. I don't want to mess with this CH so I can sell it while it still weldin good soon as I can. 
 I cannot remember the brand of the wire I think,,Weld Cote,,?? but had a strip of brown paper coverin the wire with a tag "Qualified",,,??? qualified for what??LOL
 What other "GOOD" brands of wire are there out there?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jul 2019 at 9:41pm
If it welds for a little bit, then SKIPS, it is probably in the roller adjustment ( tension) or the liner is getting OLD and grabbing the wire........... either way, not SMOOTH TRAVEL.
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jul 2019 at 9:43pm
If you have CERTIFIED Welders welding up a boiler or pipe line, you have to keep RECORDS, and the ROD has to have a paper trail of where it came from, what and who made it, and what % metals are included in the rod ( wire)... that is its CERTIFICATION.
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote desertjoe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jul 2019 at 4:42am
Originally posted by steve(ill) steve(ill) wrote:

If it welds for a little bit, then SKIPS, it is probably in the roller adjustment ( tension) or the liner is getting OLD and grabbing the wire........... either way, not SMOOTH TRAVEL.

  Hey Steve,,,,you know,,I've been told two different things on setting wire tension,,,,The CH tech told me to tighten the agjustin knob down to where it will NOT slip,,,,then a half more turn,,,?? Then a dude on YouTube had a long winded video that says to hold the torch end against a solid something, hit the trigger and adjust the knob to where it will slip when held up to something solid,,,,,UMMmm,,,which is which,,,???
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote desertjoe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jul 2019 at 5:19am
 One other thing,,,,,Wink
 I did notice that when weldin on the galvanized tubing,,the welds will NOT be nice and smooth and tend to require too much grindin to make em look purdy,,,,I remember way back when,,reading bout weldin on galvanized pipe releases some gas that is hazardous if you are standin right over the fumes,,, I'm wonderin if this release of fumes are what are makin the weld look crappy,,?? This CH mig NOW lays a real purdy bead on carbon steel but looks like Chit on the galvanized pipe,,,,???
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Alberta Phil Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jul 2019 at 9:29am
Your weld metal is being contaminated by picking up zinc from the galvanized pipe and you won't get a nice bead with the contamination.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote HudCo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Jul 2019 at 10:13pm
i did not read many post but i would stay with lincoln or miller because repair parts consumables and acessorys are readly avalable
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Coke-in-MN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Jul 2019 at 11:04pm
I bought a POW-CON inverter welder about 1990 - it's DC / reverse polarity for Stick , Wire Feed , and can TIG with it but scratch start . 
 A high low setting and dial in amp adjustable , stitch weld , spray arc or ? Wish it had high frequency but seems only thing lacking . (Thermal Arc bought them out) son has 2 Thero Arc welders -
 I also have a Miller 304 that will do SMAW, TIG, MIG - that unit I bought from shop I worked for when it closed - was close to $5,000 new with water cooled TIG torch . Bought it for $1 when I was clearing out building 
 Problems with sputtering can also be bad liner or bad gun - the Pow-Con when i bought it had a 130 Amp rating on the gun and seems I overheated it enough that i had to replace liners regularly - finally bought a 200 A gun - not as flexible but no more problems with bad liners . 
 Also check your feed rollers as they can be worn and skipping on wire , also a wiper on wire where it enters the liner keeps both wire and liner as well as tips in good working order .
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JC-WI Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Jul 2019 at 12:05am
Ol' Desert Joe with all the free advice here will be such a pro that he will be able to weld juss about everything... I gots some parts that need welding on my old 1327 discbine.
 Here's a picture of the drive assembly to the discbine's cutter bar...
The drive hubs, there are three and this one pictured is the worse with worn splines... $90 bucks each... then the drive shaft, some worn splines, JD price on it is $136 bucks... and then there's the hexagon drive pucks with the 6 holes in them, They are $146 dollars and 4 cents...  4 cents? Yup, thats what the feller said,  JD's that proud of them rubber pucks.  Well anyways, with all the good advice on how to weld things, ole Joe will be an xpurt in welding these rubber hexagon pucks... I 'll get them in the mail to you a couple dayz after tomorrow Joe...  an when your finished with them, I expect them to look like brand spankin new... Wink      LOL
  Say, does anyone know what size of a hockey puck disc BMW uses?
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The truth is the truth, sugar coated or not. Trawler II says, "Remember that."
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote desertjoe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Jul 2019 at 2:56am
   Hey JC,,,I woluld tend to say,,you gots you some pretty good service outa them tractor parts,,,,,but,,,but,, they can ALL be fixed. AND was I to have me a great reliable welder,,,,,I could,,,,,,,UMMmmmm
 Don't know if you remember,, way back when I was in the rebuilding of the D14 Industrial, I had a similar dilema of high priced parts with low amount of dollars. The splines of  drive shaft and the hub for the front pump had wore each other out and cost of the shaft and hub was gonna be lots of dollars,,,so my engineerin mind went to work and I come up on a fix that still looks and operates like the day I done it,,,,,Clap
 What I done was while in O'relly's,,I seen what was a 1" drive impact socket and a i" drive impact extension,,,,, The both pieces were only $20 and the socket was almost an exact fit in the center of the hub where the wore out splines were,,,,,Clap SO, I machined the center of the hub out to where the female part of the impact socket would fit in there just so,,,and put one of my "special" super duper welds on it to last forever,,!! I had a piece of 1" reciprocating pump shaft that was just the length of the needed shaft,,so I welded the male end of the impact extension to the driveshaft and PRESTO a drive shaft and hub arrangement that will outlive me and two-three others. The impact socket and extension are work hardened to outlive all that pounding back and forth so I feel sure they will work out just fine.


Edited by desertjoe - 18 Jul 2019 at 3:00am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Jul 2019 at 6:06am
Hay DJ
Is that a factory or 'DJ special' fill/vent cap for the steering bolster?

yeesh, Grade 8 bolts to attach the adapter ! Kinda 'overkill'.......lol

Jay

3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)

Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote desertjoe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Jul 2019 at 8:42am
 Well,,,Jay,,put it this way,,,that one was on the tractor when I drug it out the weeds to get it home,,,, I did add a tack weld as the top part kept wantin to fall off.  When I build something,,I build it to last,,,ME, Clap


Edited by desertjoe - 18 Jul 2019 at 8:43am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DMiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Jul 2019 at 2:41pm
One other IMPORTANT point of Wire Welding, is it HAS to be PRISTINE Clean, no Mill finish, no rust, no coatings or paint, SHINY, CLEAN and NO OIL. Every one of those mentioned will cause a cut out sputter and inclusion in the weld.
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