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chaskaduo 
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 Topic: D19 turbo history
Posted: 15 Jul 2019 at 9:43am |
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I have eyes like that, I wonder if they make corrective glasses for that?
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1938 B, 79 Dynamark 11/36 6spd, 95 Weed-Eater 16hp, 2010 Bolens 14hp
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Lonn
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Location: Назарово,Russia
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Posted: 15 Jul 2019 at 9:31am |
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DrAllis
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Posted: 15 Jul 2019 at 9:15am |
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It isn't if you run it too long. A couple of minutes at or near an idle isn't any issue. We run a pulling tractor with twin-turbos with a dry block and dry head.
Edited by DrAllis - 15 Jul 2019 at 9:16am
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TramwayGuy
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Posted: 15 Jul 2019 at 8:47am |
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How is running an engine without coolant good for it?
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CTuckerNWIL
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Posted: 14 Jul 2019 at 6:03pm |
 Lonn wrote:
I would think it would be hard to get 100 hp out of an unmodified 185 just by turn the fuel up.
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What he said was, "he put a turbo on it cranked it up" 
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DiyDave
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Posted: 13 Jul 2019 at 6:08pm |
If you look, in this video, you can see the lanova pre-cumbustion chambers, opposite the injectors, just below the air intake manifold. Injector sprays toward the cup, as the intake air charge is being compressed. On these engines timing of everything is critical, and they have a history of camshaft problems...
[TUBE]vxCf0EdDnuY[/TUBE]
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SteveM C/IL
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Shelbyville IL
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Posted: 13 Jul 2019 at 10:18am |
AC7060IL wrote:
DonDittmar wrote:
Lanova cell injectors spray in a stream and not a mist like direct injection. Lanova cell engines rely on piston speed to push the air into the cell to get it to swirl to break up the fuel droplets. The faster you crank it over, the more the swirl, and the better the atomization of the fuel and the easier the start.
Good batteries, good cables(about the diameter of your thumb) and a good working starter and they should start in cold weather.
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Thanks for your explanation about these early diesel lanova designs. I’ve linked a video about indirect injections which shows 3 different combustion chamber concepts. Which of the video’s concept closely matches the buda lanova design?
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Ll3eK_EvsBE |
the one that says air cell
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tbran
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Posted: 13 Jul 2019 at 9:57am |
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We just built a D19 diesel . It had about 65 hp and lots of smoke. We advanced the timing and got it to 80 hp -but it would not crank. We checked all on the pump as to advance and checked injectors which were not perfect but better than most running . It was a balance between HP and timing. We replaced the old carbon blade rear transfer pump with the late style system (and got a memory refresher on pump rotation cam ring) and reset the advance trimmer (late style) and it helped but still no where close to 100 hp with the torque screw that had been backed out. Those indirect inj heads with a stock turbo just will not go much over that 70 hp line with acceptable smoke levels... Nebraska test was 66 hp from memory...
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When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money..
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AC7060IL
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Location: central IL
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Posted: 13 Jul 2019 at 9:55am |
DonDittmar wrote:
Lanova cell injectors spray in a stream and not a mist like direct injection. Lanova cell engines rely on piston speed to push the air into the cell to get it to swirl to break up the fuel droplets. The faster you crank it over, the more the swirl, and the better the atomization of the fuel and the easier the start.
Good batteries, good cables(about the diameter of your thumb) and a good working starter and they should start in cold weather.
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Thanks for your explanation about these early diesel lanova designs. I’ve linked a video about indirect injections which shows 3 different combustion chamber concepts. Which of the video’s concept closely matches the buda lanova design? https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Ll3eK_EvsBE
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m16ty
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Posted: 12 Jul 2019 at 11:40pm |
I had no idea you could get close to 100 hp out of a diesel D19. I thought the 262 was pretty much maxed out in stock form. Mine acts like a 60-70 hp tractor, so I assume it's stock, but it's never been on a dyno.
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200Tom1
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Location: Iowa
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Posted: 12 Jul 2019 at 11:20am |
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Dad bought a used 1 at a consignment auction along with the 5x16 snap coupler plow. He had it 10 or 12 years before he had any motor problems. He used it to pull the machinery the D17 pulled with the exception of the plow. When it finally lost a sleeve, he took it to the local AC dealer for an overhaul. When they put it on the dyno they told dad it was turning out 105 Hp. They turned it back down. He kept it a couple of more years till he bought an XT. He said it wasn't near the tractor after he got it back. I do not know what he did with it.
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DonDittmar
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Posted: 12 Jul 2019 at 11:18am |
What I found as far as starting is concerned, is you need cranking speed. I bought my D19D from a member on here and when I went to pick it up it was like 10 degrees that morning. It had (2) 12 volt batteries in it. One was shot and the other was half assed when it was fully charged and they were hooked together with lawnmower battery cable. When I hit the key I think it made 1/2 a revolution. Guy hooked on to it with his truck and towed me out on the street in front of his house which is paved. When I got it out on the pavement I had it in gear and I eased the hand clutch back into low range. Once engaged it didnt move 10 feet and it was running.
Lanova cell injectors spray in a stream and not a mist like direct injection. Lanova cell engines rely on piston speed to push the air into the cell to get it to swirl to break up the fuel droplets. The faster you crank it over, the more the swirl, and the better the atomization of the fuel and the easier the start.
Good batteries, good cables(about the diameter of your thumb) and a good working starter and they should start in cold weather.
Edited by DonDittmar - 12 Jul 2019 at 11:19am
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Experience is a fancy name for past mistakes. "Great moments are born from great opportunity"
1968 D15D,1962 D19D
Also 1965 Cub Loboy and 1958 JD 720 Diesel Pony Start
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JohnCO
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
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Posted: 11 Jul 2019 at 11:23pm |
When I was 15 I borrowed a D19 from the dealer in Longmont, CO, S&S Equipment, for our 4-H float in the county fair parade. I remember the owner, can't think of his first name now telling me it didn't have much gas in it and that it liked to drink, even ideling down the street. I borrowed a couple bucks from my Mom and got probably 7 gallons of gas, my Mom asked, "are you sure it uses gasoline?" I pointed out the decal on the tank. I don't know how much gas it used but it still had quite a bit in the tank, or course it only ran for maybe two hours in the parade and back to the dealer on Main Street. When I stopped in a few weeks earlier to see about using a tractor, a local farmer was there with his near new D19 with a broken casting for the lift arms. He was pulling a 3 bottom spinner plow. I believe the family still has that tractor, I need to ask his son.
I just realized that was 65 years ago this month!
Edited by JohnCO - 11 Jul 2019 at 11:25pm
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"If at first you don't succeed, get a bigger hammer"
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tbran
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Location: Paris Tn
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Posted: 11 Jul 2019 at 10:21pm |
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The first 19's had the cams replaced as the though was to keep the intake open longer to better charge the cylinder - only problem was hard cranking - so they changed them out according to Bruce Derrington an old Ac service mgr. and the still had starting issues. Many D19 17's had the transfer pumps changed out for the later style vane pumps with springs rather than the old carbon blades. Gave better psi on the transfer pump at lower cranking speed.
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When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money..
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JC-WI
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: wisconsin
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Posted: 09 Jul 2019 at 11:54pm |
On my old D17 diesel, I drilled and tapped the rear of the water tube on top of the head and put in an elbow then hung the tank right below it and drew water off the drain plug was far enough back that it heated the engine without opening the thermostat...
The one-ninety, I set the heater directly below the drain plug and then had a long hose coming from the thermostat housing down to the inlet of heater.
170 gas has a lower hose heater, seems to do fine.
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He who says there is no evil has already deceived himself
The truth is the truth, sugar coated or not. Trawler II says, "Remember that."
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SteveM C/IL
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Posted: 09 Jul 2019 at 10:29pm |
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Sometime in last 6-8 months,someone posted pics of 262 with tank heater. Pulled out of right side middle of block and returned up and over to thermostat hsg.
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Lonn
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Posted: 09 Jul 2019 at 9:58am |
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Freeze plug heaters tend to have a smaller element, thus less wattage and less heat, at least from my experience.
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m16ty
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Location: TN
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Posted: 08 Jul 2019 at 10:29pm |
DiyDave wrote:
m16ty wrote:
My old '64 D19D is still going strong. Let it warm up and cool down before and after work, never had a problem, and I pull it hard from time to time.
The main problem we have with the engine is starting, but if you have good batteries and manifold heater it will start, even below freezing. I've also noticed that a block heater doesn't seem to help much at all, and I think it's because you don't get enough heat up into the head to the energy cells.
The rest of the tractor seems bulletproof. PS doesn't compare to hydrostatic but it's adequate. Not much GPM with the hyd, but it's really not a problem unless you have a loader.
I have access to a parts 185 with a good engine. If the 262 ever gives me trouble, I may try to shoehorn the 2800 engine in there. If the tractor was to have a 2800 engine, I think I'd rather have it over a 185. I like the manual PD, works just as well as the hyd PD, and less complicated (less to go wrong and when it does it's cheaper to fix). Wouldn't be too hard to convert steering to hydrostatic, I've got a parts F2 that could be a donor for that. |
What kinda heater din you use. I used a external tank type, and it would start w/o the air heater, on the coldest day, w/ 45 mins of preheating. A properly heated D-19 would have 4-5 cats nappin on the hood... |
I've got a lower radiator hose heater. It will circulate the warm water, and the block will get warm to the touch, but it doesn't seem like much heat gets up to the head. I'd like to have a freeze plug block heater, but I've yet to find a freeze plug that has enough depth behind it to accept a block heater.
Unless it's about 90deg outside, I'll have to use the manifold heater to get mine to start. The colder it is, the longer you have to hold the key.
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DiyDave
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Posted: 08 Jul 2019 at 5:07am |
m16ty wrote:
My old '64 D19D is still going strong. Let it warm up and cool down before and after work, never had a problem, and I pull it hard from time to time.
The main problem we have with the engine is starting, but if you have good batteries and manifold heater it will start, even below freezing. I've also noticed that a block heater doesn't seem to help much at all, and I think it's because you don't get enough heat up into the head to the energy cells.
The rest of the tractor seems bulletproof. PS doesn't compare to hydrostatic but it's adequate. Not much GPM with the hyd, but it's really not a problem unless you have a loader.
I have access to a parts 185 with a good engine. If the 262 ever gives me trouble, I may try to shoehorn the 2800 engine in there. If the tractor was to have a 2800 engine, I think I'd rather have it over a 185. I like the manual PD, works just as well as the hyd PD, and less complicated (less to go wrong and when it does it's cheaper to fix). Wouldn't be too hard to convert steering to hydrostatic, I've got a parts F2 that could be a donor for that. |
What kinda heater din you use. I used a external tank type, and it would start w/o the air heater, on the coldest day, w/ 45 mins of preheating. A properly heated D-19 would have 4-5 cats nappin on the hood...
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m16ty
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Posted: 08 Jul 2019 at 12:03am |
My old '64 D19D is still going strong. Let it warm up and cool down before and after work, never had a problem, and I pull it hard from time to time.
The main problem we have with the engine is starting, but if you have good batteries and manifold heater it will start, even below freezing. I've also noticed that a block heater doesn't seem to help much at all, and I think it's because you don't get enough heat up into the head to the energy cells.
The rest of the tractor seems bulletproof. PS doesn't compare to hydrostatic but it's adequate. Not much GPM with the hyd, but it's really not a problem unless you have a loader.
I have access to a parts 185 with a good engine. If the 262 ever gives me trouble, I may try to shoehorn the 2800 engine in there. If the tractor was to have a 2800 engine, I think I'd rather have it over a 185. I like the manual PD, works just as well as the hyd PD, and less complicated (less to go wrong and when it does it's cheaper to fix). Wouldn't be too hard to convert steering to hydrostatic, I've got a parts F2 that could be a donor for that.
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tomstractorsandtoys
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Posted: 19 Jun 2019 at 12:57pm |
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My grandfather had a brand new one but only kept it one year and got a 190XT. His problem was the depth control. They had a 4 bottom semi mounted plow and when you lowered the plow the front went in first then the back. The problem was the whole plow had to be down before the draft control would work and the front of the plow always went to deep before the draft took hold. Dealer was out several times both spring and fall and could not fix it. The next year made him a great deal on a 190XT,6 bottom reset plow and a 780 chopper. Tom
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Lonn
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Posted: 19 Jun 2019 at 12:56pm |
Marlyn nwia wrote:
You forgot to tally the amount of 'BS" from old retired college professors;
it would certainly add to Sioux County's supply of poop!
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did I miss sumpin?
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injpumpEd
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Posted: 19 Jun 2019 at 12:48pm |
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I get MLS gaskets from SealTec along with their rings. Anyone can deal with them, but for some applications, I've done the leg work and keep some various ones in stock. They need a pattern, and can make any head gasket you want.
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210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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Kevin in WA
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Posted: 19 Jun 2019 at 9:35am |
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Yes Ed, we have had several sets of oversized flange sleeves made at LA Sleeve, the flange is about twice as wide and .020 thousands taller to allow a badly eroded block to be cleaned up. I have installed about 6 sets so far with good results, it still would be nice to find a better quality gasket with better fire rings for a permanent fix for these engines.
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Gary Burnett
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Posted: 19 Jun 2019 at 9:21am |
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I have a D19 gas its been a tough reliable tractor for years.Been here about 50 years.
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Charlie175
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Posted: 19 Jun 2019 at 7:50am |
Only knew of 2 D19's around growing up. 1 sat in the shed as they had head gasket issues and didn't use it much. Was in great shape. Eventually it was sold to a collector Other one was used for pulling and they changed the head gasket on a regular bases. Now retired to a dusty shop corner
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Charlie
'48 B, '51 CA, '56 WD45 '61 D17, '63 D12, '65 D10 , '68 One-Ninety XTD
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injpumpEd
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Posted: 19 Jun 2019 at 7:42am |
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Wasn't it Kevin TeVelde from up in Wa State having custom sleeves made with a larger diameter flange, then having the block counterbore bored out to match the sleeve? This arrangement along with fire-rings and an MLS head gasket should put an end to head gasket problems. I'd almost think the fire rings would work good even on stock sleeves, as long as the sleeves aren't sunken down too badly. The rings are kinda soft, and forgiving, so they will conform to the irregular sleeve heights.
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210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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Don(MI)
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Posted: 18 Jun 2019 at 5:26pm |
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Ok, thanks just curious.
Mine has an actual Engine serial # Aluminum plate on it. We took a CII Diesel 262 engine and dropped it into our '62 D-19 diesel. Not much to change over and figure the CII engine had alot better life than the original D-19D engine
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Galatians 5:22-24
"I got a pig at home in a pen and corn to feed him on, All I need is a pretty little girl to feed him when I'm gone!"
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DrAllis
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Posted: 18 Jun 2019 at 3:40pm |
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Same engine. Same design. Never subjected to as many cold starts and hot stops as a tractor engine. Never LUGGED like a tractor engine. Never worked as hard as a tractor engine. Probably not as many problems as a result.
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Don(MI)
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Posted: 18 Jun 2019 at 3:37pm |
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Does anyone know if the Gleaner CII combine in the 262 Diesel version experienced the same head problems? Or was it designed differently internally?
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Galatians 5:22-24
"I got a pig at home in a pen and corn to feed him on, All I need is a pretty little girl to feed him when I'm gone!"
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